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Published: December 24th 2005
I left Quito on Thursday for Otavalo. It’s very nice here, I like it much more than Quito. Otavalo is a medium-sized town, but I am here primarily because today is market day! They say this is the largest indigenous market in South America. I can’t say whether or not that is true, but it is certainly big. There were many craft stalls open yesterday as well, so I actually did some shopping then, which turned out to be a smart decision, because the prices were much higher today. There is some haggling involved which was kind of hard for me. Just tell me what it’s worth and that’s what I’ll pay, but I guess it doesn’t work like that here (or honestly anywhere).
Besides the craft market, which is primarily for tourists, there is a food/household goods market and an animal market. The animal market is over by mid-morning, so I got up early and went to check it out. It was a little ways out of town, and it was a scene. All the animals were just on ropes, there weren’t any holding pens or corrals. There was some vague organization; pigs and sheep in one area, cows and horses in another, chickens just wherever. When someone would buy an animal, they would just get to lead it away on its string. Or if it was a chicken they would just sling in over their shoulder by the feet. I saw one woman with a little sheep slung on her back in a shawl, like some of the women carry their babies. The animals, especially the cows and the sheep, could look better. They are pretty skinny and miserable looking. The pigs look ok, and who knows how to tell if a chicken is ok. People were trying to load cows into tall trucks without the use of a ramp. They would just smack and push the cows until they hopped up there. The last cow was always reluctant to jump. I can’t blame her, they had them all so squished there was scarcely room for her front end. It was fun, though, despite the bedraggled animals. It was interesting to see an Ecuadorean parallel to a livestock auction.
I walked through the food and goods market also. The produce looked really good! I hope that Cayambe, the town that I will be living near has a good market. I can’t wait to use some of those vegetables. There are also lots of interesting-looking fruits. I wish I knew how to eat them. I stuck to bananas, which were somehow heartier than bananas in the states.
I got some weird looks at the food and animal markets. I don’t think it’s really common to see a single white girl wandering around the non-tourist markets. Everyone that I talked to was really friendly though, probably because they wanted me to buy something, but nonetheless. There are tons of foreign tourists here today buying the crafts, some of which are really beautiful (the crafts, not the tourists). The ponchos and scarves are for the most part gorgeous. There are also some traditional crafts that incorporate Western staples such as Shrek and “Bob Esponga.” I guess “squarepants” didn’t translate well. Globalization bears some strange offspring.
In other news, I am really starting to like the food. The breakfasts at my hostel have been huge mounds of pineapple, papaya, and banana with yogurt, honey, and granola. The fruit is so good. I have had a couple of “meriendas” which are set four-course lunch menus for a bargain price (about $4). I wasn’t quite sure either time what everything was, but it all turned out to be delicious. The food here in the highlands is based largely on corn and potatoes with fish or little pieces of meat. My favourite of the meriendas has been a quinoa soup (quinoa is a grain typically grown here, and is full of protein and deliciousness) and the ear of corn with cheese that is the typical first course. Today at lunch a traditional band came in with a guitar, fiddle, two flutes, and a huge drum. They were pretty good. The other great common food I am starting to love are the jugos (juices). This isn’t juice like at home though, this is thick fruit puree. It’s so good. I love the piña (pineapple), and the passion fruit the most so far, but I have many more to try!
That’s about it for me. Tomorrow morning I am heading to a hacienda for a taste of the countryside. Have a Merry Christmas, Happy Hannukah, Wonderful Solstice, and Nice Day, everyone. I miss you all! I promise some pictures soon.
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Uncle Rick
non-member comment
WOW
What a great adventure you are having. I wish I was there with you. I would love the food, the sights, the smells, not to mention getting away from the darn cold weather and snow. Love, Uncle Rick