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Bob's Butterfly Buddy
The quintessential vacation photo, Bob with a blue morpho perched on his cap. He & Kate loved their visit to the butterfly park!Hola amigos! It's been over a week since I took my brother Bob and his family to the airport for their flight(s) back to Baltimore. I'm finally getting around to writing the text to go with the photos I uploaded the day they flew out. I am now back in Banos and spending lots of time at the BIB (Biblioteca Interactiva de Banos-a volunteer children's library) preparing all the donations (sorting, pricing) for our semi-annual Garage Sale! I have schlepped down several truckloads of donated stuff (muchas gracias to so many friends -- and some of their friends as well -- who contributed to this sale's ample bounty!)
SO - let me go back to the end of July and catch up! I had a short job in Quito, so I rented a room in my favorite Quito guest house (Posada del Maple) for a couple of days before and after; I really enjoyed spending a full week in the same bed (hasn't happened much in recent months!!) My job was to assess a TESOL Certificate Training Program. I represented the university that oversees the Training Center by observing the Teacher Training Sessions and
Bob, Kate & Holden in Ecuador!
So wonderful to share some favorite Ecuador spots with my younger brother Bob, his wife Kate and my 14 yr old nephew Holden. then writing a report.
I took a break during the day I'd set aside for report-writing because my truck was making some odd noises. (oh no! more truck woes!!) When I turned on the ventilation fan it churned loudly and made the glove box vibrate. OK - I could ride with the windows open but for the trip with my brother starting in muggy Guayaquil air-conditioning would be essential! The Quito mechanic took apart the underdash and glued pieces of rubber onto the fan motor to drop it down a bit. For five dollars I thought I'd found a solution...but the next morning the growling rumble was back and the stereo speaker on that side was now scratchy to boot!
On my solo drive down to Guayaquil to meet Bob & family (it took 8 hrs - thank heavens for audio books!), I stopped in a small market town and the local mechanic took a look. He insisted it was just badly placed and retightened the screws. The noise was gone...for about 5 minutes. The guys wouldn't return the $5 I'd just paid him, saying instead
Big Boys Teeter Tottering
The wooden saddle see-saw at Alandaluz was good fun for Bob & Holden. Its Spanish name: sube y baja (go up & go down). "Dios le pagara" (G-d will pay you back!) He sent me up the road to the electrician who told me I'd need to get a whole new motor at a Chevy dealer.
I had figured out how to play with the fan speeds, dropping down slowly from 3 to 2 to 1 and I could get it to gently blow air on 1 -- until I braked, accelerated or hit a bump. After a few days of travelling up the coast with Bob, we did finally find a permanent solution -- stayed tuned for that story -- I will insert it chronologically!
Arriving in Guayaquil after a long drive and trying to find my way to a place I've never been is not at the top of my list of things I like to do. I have this panic about driving in Guayaquil. I've gotten lost just enough times that I tend to get nervous and psych myself out, certain I won't be able to to get to my destination. Using three different maps I had I pieced together on which bridge I should cross
Goofing with Statues
The first night I met up with Bob & family in Guayaquil, we took a stroll after dinner. Holden and I were caught in the act of being silly! the estuary in order to go through the tunnels and get to the downtown Hampton Inn. I'm SO proud of myself. I DID IT! I found the hotel after only a few circles around on one-way streets and yelling out the window to ask folks for help. What a relief to hand over the keys to the valet and let him take care of parking Morci.
Since my Bob does so much business travel, he cashed in his "points" and we stayed in some really nice hotels. It was after 2:00 pm when I arrived and brother was due to arrive in another hour. The gal at reception told me there weren't any clean rooms ready and I'd have to wait for two hours. I told her that was not acceptable -- that I'd been driving for eight hours and could she please find a room for me asap. Fifteen minutes later I was soaking in a hot bath (ah! not too many bathtubs in my world in Ecuador!) and my skin was still pinky and wrinkly when Bob, Kate & Holden arrived.
Once they had
A Curtain of Flowers
Kate's smiling because we're at a chocolate tasting! We saw the process of artisanal chooclate-making and then got to sample the results. relaxed a bit, we took a walk over to Iguana Park -- probably Guayaquil's #1 tourist attraction. As we walked along we noticed huge crowds gathering on the main streets and listening to live music at the waterfront park. We marveled at the prehistoric looking iguanas, draped over the branches of a leafless tree. It was like an Escher-esque puzzle -- the tails twisted around the branches and the claws blending in with the markings on the bark. When they moved their spiky heads we could count over a dozen 4-6 ft iguanas up above our heads. Look out below!
After a nice dinner we continued walking, but by now the streets were packed with people. It was great for people-watching, but we wove our way through crowds to get back to the hotel. We were all tired - my guests after a week of frenetic activity to make the most of their Galapagos adventure and me from my drive. A wonderful night's sleep, yummy buffet breakfast, and we were ready to head up the coast. The mere contemplation of finding my way to the "Via a la Costa" in busy Guayaquil
Big Dogs at Hosteria Mandala
So wonderful to be back at Mandala, again as a guest. The youngest dog, black dane Carbon, is now 2 yrs old & pony-sized. He's a big kissy love! Julieta (L) is pregnant with his pups! traffic made my skin crawl, so we took the easy route and hired a taxi driver to lead the way. What a relief.
We got within a half hour of Puerto Lopez, our desitination for the next few days, and the vehicles in front of us screeched to a halt. Trucks and buses and dozens of cars completely stopped and people getting out of their vehicles (never a good sign). A guy told us there was a protest going on and that the military had been called and it could be a few hours before they opened the road. We decided to go for lunch in the last town we'd passed but had to drive further up to find a turnaround spot. We could see burning tires and huge tree trunks blocking the roadway. Supposedly the townsfolk were protesting because their bridge had not been repaired when the road was being redone. After a relaxing seaside lunch all was clear and we continued northward.
We finally arrived at Hosteria Mandala, ahh!! Such a treat for me to be a hotel guest at the place where I've
Friendly Pto Lopez Fisherman
As the fishing boats came in, we stood on the beach to examine their catch. This cheerful guy artfully laid out his treasures for us to see. spent SO many hours working hard! It was nice to slow down and relax a bit. After a week on the Galapagos boat, Bob was eager to take a long run (he's training for the Chicago marathon in October) but alas, the Puerto Lopez dogs gave him a hard time. En route to visit my property and the school where I am godmother, we stopped at the fishing market. Not too many boats were coming in, but this guy's catch (see foto) was particularly interesting and he eagerly displayed it for us!
After a few stops down the coast -- showing Bob & Kate & Holden my cabanas and then visiting friends Pat & Scott who have built a liveable sandcastle just south of Alandaluz -- we went to the little school in Las Cabanas de Ayampe to greet the students. They showed us the work that has been done on the new classroom, and the student bathrooms which now have toilets and doors! When classes ended we gave the teachers a lift home and stayed to have lunch with my adopted family in Salango. I have really missed them and they all
Goldstein & Suarez Families
Warm. loving reception at the home of my adopted family in Salango fishing village. After a yummy lunch and sharing gifts, I took this photo of the whole gang. really enjoyed meeting my brother. Bob had sent down an old laptop of his a few years back which helped Beatriz finish her university requirements. She was thrilled to be able to finally thank him in person!
The next morning I sent Bob & family on a whale watching expedition. I've already gone and have gotten seasick every time! Besides, I had a meeting with a potential buyer for my land - an African guy whose been living near Atlanta for over 20 yrs! We drove down in the grey drizzle (every June - Sept this part of the coast gets hit with chilly garua -- an effect of the Antarctic Humboldt Current which brings the humpack whales!) and I showed him the land (now overgrown from so much moisture!) Later on Kate and Holden went swimming in the sea, but it was way too cold for me. I prefer when the water along that piece of coast is 10-15 degrees warmer!
Our time in Puerto Lopez was all too short. We enjoyed some wonderful meals at Mandala and I got to connect briefly with
Swimming Pool Paradise!
Entranced by the beauty of this mosaic tiled pool, we spent hours swimming and enjoying the built-in jacuzzi. a few friends I hadn't seen in months -- but then it was time to head northward! In Manta we stopped at the Chevy dealer to find out about replacing the fan motor. All I could do was laugh when they told me the part cost $850 -- I asked one guy if there wasn't any cheaper way to fix it and his response, "I wouldn't be able to say" was keeping with the Chevy party line. The guy working beside him called out to me as I left "At Solo Frio, 4 blocks up the road, they can probably do an adaptation." Twenty minutes and only $80 later a new fan motor had been installed. All finished in time to drop Bob & Holden at the shopping mall while Kate & I went to the chiropractor's for a quick tune-up.
Just a short drive further north before we arrived in Bahia de Caraquez. Last fall I visited a new boutique hotel that had just opened and when Bob & I were planning the itinerary I proposed the idea of a night of elegance at Casa Ceibo. "Let's go for it!" was his
Casa Ceibo Gardens
A former family estate, the Boutique Hotel has maintained the extensive gardens. Kate & Holden stroll in awe. response. Thanks Bob! Such a treat for me to be able to travel in luxury now and again! We all chilled out in the exquisitely beautiful combo pool/jacuzzi/bar and enjoyed the stunning gardens of this stately-family home turned into an 18 rm hotel. The private pier stretches out through mangrove swamps to an arm of the estuary that is filled with bird life.
I had invited my friend Margarita to join us for dinner that night, and we drove into town to pick her up. It was lovely to see the sunset from the balconies of her sixth story condo. Bahia de Caraquez is situated on a point of land with a deep estuary on one side and the Pacific Ocean on the other. Lovely all around views as the sky went pinky-orange. We enjoyed a delightful dinner at Casa Ceibo -- very elegant dining with a creative menu. I almost always speak Spanish with Margarita, and it was fun to hear her converse with my family in beautiful English. She's an amazing woman who started a new career when she turned 80 (!); working with children who have learning disabilities.
Casa Ceibo Pier
A graceful heron stretches her neck to peer off the pier which extends through the mangroves out to the estuary. From Bahia we made the long drive up the Andes to get to Mindo. Mindo is a smallish town located in a sub-tropical inter-Andean valley (think coffee, plantains, cacao, fruit galore, rushing rivers, bromeliads, steep gorges, heliconias, butterflies & hummingbirds). I'd been hearing about El Monte Sustainable Lodge for a long time, and it was great to finally have an opportunity to stay there. The owners are mutual friends of several of my good friends in Quito, and when I met Tom & Mariela we marvelled at the fact that we had not yet met. It's kind of funny - I'd even met Mariela's folks in their village on the northern coast when I stopped, by chance, to offer a lift to an American woman who was waiting for the bus. She was a volunteer who'd been teaching English & Dance at the little village school. Of course, Mariela's Dad came across the road to make sure I was a safe "lift" for the young woman he'd been hosting.
We drove on rutted mud roads past the town of Mindo and left the truck sheltered in a stand
Tarabita Trolley Across the River
Our luggage was ferried across on this cable swing, and we also crossed the river to arrive at El Monte. of bamboo alongside the river. We (and our bags) were ferried over on a small rope and pulley seat (a basic tarabita). Our lodging consisted of ample, comfortable cabanas made of all natural materials -- lovely wood walls & floors, bathtub set in stonework, glorious views of a natural swimming hole alongside the rushing river and lush green hillsides beyond. The main lodge area (reading/games area, hammock, firepits) is a gorgeous indoor/outdoor living/dining room with comfy cane, rattan & natural wood furniture. The meals were mostly vegetarian, prepared with produce from the organic gardens. The power for the lodge is solar and for the cabanas it's hydroelectric.
We met some very interesting people during our short (2 night) stay at El Monte including a famous British photographer, a young Russian doctor who had just climbed Mt. Cotopaxi, a Lithuanian volunteer, and an author from San Francisco. Dining is family style, so there were great opportunities to get to know one another. We learned a lot about projects to protect indigenous communities, encouraging ecotourism and discouraging petroleum development. It was a very aimiable group and we all enjoyed mealtime conversations.
Cabana at El Monte
Beautiful and comfortable rustic cabins in a stunning natural setting made our stay one of exquisite beauty and total relaxation. There was a lot to do in Mindo! After breakfast we headed to the Canopy Zipline where Bob, Kate & Holden performed the daring Superman & Butterfly poses on the fast lines. I waited below and chatted with the guide. As Bob came off his final speedy upside down flight he proclaimed, "I think I saw G-d!" We all continued on to the slower-paced highwire metal tarabita tramway with bench seats. It ferried us high in the air across a dramatic gorge with a rushing river below. A great view looking down on the treetops and the lush hillsides plunging into a deep canyon.
The three of them went tubing down the rapids on the river on a cluster of six innertubes tied together, their two guides pushing them off rocks and around eddies. I hung back and did some reading (loving the Kindle my sister gifted me - great to have books on hand while travelling!) I later met up with the others for a tour of "Chocolarte" where we learned about the process of artisanal chocolate-making and then got to do a tasting by dipping spoonfuls
Outdoor Living Room
The main lodge at El Monte has indoor/outdoor spaces for dining, reading, playing, and relaxing. Exquisite views on all sides! of pure, processed cacao into sugar, ginger, chiles, and syrup.
Bob & Kate enjoyed visiting the Mariposario (Butterfly Enclosure) and a highlight for all was when a bright yellow Choco Toucan was flitting from tree to tree right beside the dining room. The beak and feathers were an intense yellow and the markings on the beak and around the eye were incredibly vivid. We said a fond farewell to El Monte and headed out for Banos. We stopped en route to visit Pululagua Crater, a volcanic cone that collapsed 400 yrs ago and is now a fertile valley. Very dramatic views.
Passing by the Equator Monument, we continued south and skirted Quito, taking the Eastern Ring Road around and down to the Panamerican Highway. With views of the city still to our west, we were treated to breathtaking views of Cotopaxi Volcano. The "Pana" curves around the base of the volcano and the skies stayed clear so that during our drive we had full glacial snow-cap views for over an hour! More often than not Cotopaxi is hidden by dense cloud cover, so it
Rainbow at Agoyan Falls
Just below Banos the falls were rushing with the dam open. Looking down frm above we caught dazzling rainbow images. was really special to see the mountain in all his glory! (note: According to legend and lore, Cotopaxi and most other Andean volcanos are male, but Tungurahua is female.)
Arriving in Banos, I settled Bob & family into their guest house and I headed up the hill to stay with Shana & Maxi. Banos is so easy to get around and so many people speak English, I think it was nice for them to be able to do a little exploring of the town on their own. The following day we headed down along the Ruta de las Cascadas -- the Waterfall Route. We took a metal tarabita cable car over the Pastaza River gorge to the top of Agoyan Falls. Since the hydroelectric dam upriver was open, both branches of the falls were crashing -- the crystal clear snowmelt and the churning chocolate milk of the river. The sun was shining brightly so we were treated to a vivid rainbow in the spray.
Passing by several more waterfalls (two of which trickle over the road -- I drove back and forth to get a
Kate above the Falls
The river rushes ever downward, forming a peaceful grotto between the "pre-cascade" and the enormous waterfall below. mini car wash!) we stopped in Rio Verde to hike El Pailon del Diablo (The Devil's Cauldron). The guys set off on the steeper path, which drops down to the base of the falls and Kate and I explored the garden paths which weave along the upper reaches of the "pre-cascadas" -- the mini falls which lead to the big drop. There were amazing ferns and flowers, some I'd never seen before. We followed up our hikes with a delightful lunch at Miramelindo, which also has beautiful gardens. It was a progressive lunch as we continued on for dessert at Regine's alongside Chamana Falls, which tumble down a steep hillside, pausing to create eight or more levels. Needless to say, it was a "waterfally" day!
Our last day in Banos we visited the El Salado Thermal Baths. Tucked alongside a river valley at the base of Tungurahua, these rustic hot springs have been renovated to be more tourist-friendly....let's just say they have a ways to go! It was pretty crowded (school vacations) and the shower and dressing room areas were a bit hectic. I generally go to the baths early in the morning,
Imagination Corner at the BIB
A visit to the volunteer chirldren's library in Banos (La Biblioteca Interactiva de Banos - BIB) inspired us to play dress-up. sometimes even before sunrise (they open at 4:30 am) but arriving after 9:30 there are lots of families. Of course I took my visitors to the BIB -- the Biblioteca Interactiva de Banos -- the children's library where I often volunteer whenever I'm in Banos. Bob & Kate & Holden had donated some children's books, so it was nice for them to experience the magic of this special place.
Last stop, Quito, where we had a day and a half to explore. Again we stayed at the Hilton (ah! so nice!) and walked along Avenida Amazonas, the main drag in the tourist area. We had lunch outdoors on a small plaza where we watched some jugglers practicing and shoe shine kids begging. After lunch we stood up to leave and a half dozen beggars stormed our table to scavenge the leftovers. I went back to the hotel and chilled out while the others explored the Mariscal shopping district. I had drawn a rough map of the few blocks surrounding the hotel, indicating the best shops with the nicest quality handicrafts. Bob was also interested in finding the bookstore where he could buy one
Quito Basilica Clock Tower
A visit to Quito's old town led us up the spired of the Basilica. Crystal clear blue skies framed stunning city views. of the books by the photographer we'd met.
The next day we visited Quito's Historic Center, named as the very first UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978. The weather was perfect - crystal clear skies. It almost felt like you could reach out and touch the Pichincha Mountains to the west of the city! We started at Basilica, exploring the naves and the spires. We took an elevator up the steeple and from there continued upward on foot until we were looking down over the entire old town. Stairways led to a spiral staircase and then to ladders which led all the way to the top. I loved seeing the gargoyles from different angles and perspectives. Keep scrolling down to see photos some of the unique stone gargoyles which represent wildlife endemic to Ecuador! (Thanks, Bob for letting me use so many of your great photos in this blog entry!!)
After descending from the Basilica's lofty heights we walked downhill to the Plaza Grande. Most all Latinamerican cities have a central plaza and the typical "town square" has a government building on one side, a church
Inside the Clock Tower
Bob & family continued on upwards, scaling steep and shaky ladders. I was happy waiting below admiring the views. on another, a bank on the third and a hotel on the last. We enjoyed a special birthday lunch for Kate at the restaurant in the fancy hotel on the plaza. We then continued past several more churches and went to my favorite museum/shop, Tianguis, housed in the catacombs of San Francisco Church. Every nook and cranny of the cement tunnels under the church has been used to display traditional handicrafts from the various regions of Ecuador.
Early start the next morning to arrive at the airport in time for their flight. It was great fun to share Ecuador with my brother and his family. Making memories!Thanks for reading -- I know this entry was a bit long-winded -- I made it more detailed and often included place names for my sister-in-law's benefit. This one's for you, Kate. I really enjoy having visitors and seeing this country I love through their eyes. (So come down and visit me sometime soon -- yep, I mean you!)
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Pat Creasey
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Friendly fisherman
I was very pleasantly surprised to see Jorge Vasquez in your blog. He was sitting beside me when I got it. He is my "special friend" Scott teased me about. Great dancer, also makes jewelry for wholesalers in high end designs in Quito. Isn't he just the cutest thing?