The Galapagos Islands

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Galapagos: 8.12.11

Day 1:

Flew from Quito to Guayaquil, then to Galapagos Isla Baltra, amazing views of the islands as we came into land.

Bus to the zodiac’s and onto our home for the next 8 days the Floreana motor yacht. Got a bunk cabin with ensuite bathroom air con and hot water, sweet. We had a nice lunch in dining room complete with bar. Then got a bus to highlands of Isla Santa Cruz where we saw the famous giant tortoise plodding around their natural habitat, loads of the big chaps everywhere. Then we walked up a lava tube, which was nice. Into the main town of the Galapagos Porto Ayora to pick up some booze and let two of our new boat companions buy some clothes because there luggage had been lost. Pretty touristy looking town and quite big surprisingly so… Bus back to Boat and lovely dinner and beers.

Day2: 9.12.11

Woke up 6:30am in roughish sees as the boat pulled into Darwin bay on Isla Genovesa, ancherd at the back of the giant caldera of the island volcano. Went for a walk along the beach and cliffs, as soon as we landed we realised we were truly somewhere special! Four sea lions on the beach more seabirds than you can imagine sea iguanas and crabs. None of the birds have any fear of humans, you can walk right up to them and they don’t bat an eyelid, same with the sea lions. We walked within inches of nesting frigate bird, red footed boobies; swallow tailed seagulls, red billed tropic birds, yellow crowned night hearings and nasker (masked) boobies. We saw a mother and 2 day old baby sealion this was all by 9 o clock in the morning, ridiculous.

We then snorkelled from the white sand beach and saw loads of fish inc: King Angelfish, Blue chin parrot fish (adult & Super male), blue parrot fish, bumphead parrot fish, bi colour parrot fish, yellow tailed damsel, yellow tail grunt, golden eye grunt and three blacktip reef sharks not to mention the sea lions playing in the shallows.

After tasty lunch on boat, we went for another snorkel along the cliff walls of the caldera, masses of fish in better visibility waters we saw: same fish as before plus: pacific beakfish, pacific boxfish (male & female), Rainbow wrasse, streamer hogfish, golden eye grunt, various trigger fish, blue stripped snapper, Giant Damselfish, Panamic Sergent Major, Morrish Idol, Bumphead Damsel, white tail damsel, Black Stripped Salima, Yellow tailed mullet, Blue stripped snapper, Balloon fish and a Diamond stingray. Swimming around the boat where two 2m+ Bull sharks,

We then went for a walk along the cliff tops to the lava flow enroute we saw frigates stealing fish from baby boobies, and a short eared owl which apparently is really rare to see! The walk went through leafless white tress that looked dead but they are not! Back to boat to watch sunset, beers and dinner, damn good first full day!

Day 3: 10.12.11

Woke up in a bay between the larger Isla Santiago (20km across) and the relatively tiny Isla Bartolome (1km across). Beautiful views of islands and old volcanic lava flows, beaches and rock formations. Plus some other tour boats, not seen for 24hrs. After an interesting walk over a 120yr old lava flow, which is quite new in geological terms. We saw lava lizards, Galapagos locust, a Galapagos penguin, Big sea Iguana swimming and hundreds of crabs. Then in for a snorkel, loads more fish than before inc: sabre-toothed blenny’s, yellow tailed surgeonfish, barber fish, Brown chromis plus the penguin swimming around us, a big sea lion shot passed, linz saw a big Galapagos shark and then a sea turtle turned up.

After lunch we went for another snorkel and saw the usual loads of fish plus two Eagle rays another diamond ray, massive different kinds of starfish. The water was cold I should have hire a wetsuit! Then we walked to the top of Isla Bart. One of the best views I’ve ever seen, multiple volcanic craters islands and lava flows, inlets and cliffs, nice. Saw a Lava heron and our first Blue footed boobie sat on the

The boat moved around the island with 6 massive frigate birds flying a few feet from the deck, cloudy sunset. Then the engine blew up and spued what looked like all its oil into the sea, not the best in the Galapagos! We await the bad news from the engine room, I fear its game over!!!

Day 4: 11.12.11

Woke up next to Chinese Hat Island, looks like a Chinese hat surprisingly! After a hearty breakfast of fruit, cheese, dodgy ham, scrambled egg and bread we headed over to the island. On the way we cruised past the new lava flow from Santiago Island, we saw loads and loads of marine iguanas all clinging to the rocks, camouflaging well. We got dropped off at the island where there were loads of seals and their pups. The ‘teenage’ seals were all swimming around playing, the baby pups were all waddling around looking rather unstable, the females were out hunting and the alpha male was in the water keeping an eye on his group constantly barking. We then walked a little further and saw a Great Blue Heron fishing in the water, a Galapagos Hawk sat on a rock in front next to a seal with her suckling pup and some crabs! After this we kept walking and then saw a whole bunch of Marine Iguanas basking in the sun to get enough energy to go in the water and feed on the algae. After this we chilled on the beach for a bit then went back to the boat via the zodiacs. The boat was testing its engines so it was quite far away and we had to board it whilst it was still moving!

Next we went back to where we were before except on the opposite side for snorkelling. The water was pretty chilly but the visibility was great! We saw two big marine iguanas feeding on the algae under the water. It was fascinating just watching them eat, it’s bizarre! We saw loads of fish, various types of huge parrot fish. Rich saw a giant pregnant Marble Ray and this big weird green fish yet to be identified, oh and another spotted eagle ray.

After a yummy lunch on the boat we found out we couldn’t go to Whale Bay as previously planned as the boats engines we still not fixed (we were told it needed new injectors) so instead we went back to the island we were at that morning for sun bathing and snorkelling. Rich and I got in the water straight away as the young seals were in the water. We only swam for a couple of minutes before we found one sea lion swimming around. We swam a little further and we were joined by two sea lions. Rich and I kept diving down and spinning about in the water and they played with us by swimming around us and blowing bubbles. This went on for about 30min. It was absolutely amazing to be so close to sea lions in the water, playing with them as if they were puppies we loved it!

We went back to the boat for chill time and dinner which once again was really tasty. Fresh tuna, salad, veg and some kind of potato gratin. Whilst this was happening we were being towed by a ferry as the Captain didn’t want to navigate with a dodgy engine. Sat now waiting for the ferry to cool down so the injectors can be swapped. Fingers crossed this solves the engine problems!

Day 5 12/12/11

The engines seem to be fixed as we woke up next to Isabela Island. We spent the morning walking around looking at loads of Marine Iguanas. There is an area of craggy volcanic rocks where the juveniles hang out. There were so many they were covering the path! We also got to see dozens of white tip reef sharks sleeping in a shallow lagoon. After this we went snorkelling. The water was a little cloudy but we got to see some really big sea turtles and lots of balloon fish sleeping in the rocks. That afternoon we went over to Isabela where first we saw some flamingoes and then went to see the Giant Land Tortoise breeding programme where we got to see lots of tortoise including two that were mating. We also learnt about how temperature affects whether the tortoise inside the egg is male or female and got to see some baby tortoise. The tortoise cannot successfully breed in the wild as there are lots of animals that were introduced which smash their eggs and eat the young. For that reason the eggs are being collected and hatched and reared in the centre and when the tortoise are about two they release them back into the wild. We then had a couple of hours to kick about in town but it was a bit of a boring town so we opted to sit down and drink a beer! That night we were navigating to the west of Isabela which takes about 9 hours. Took a few sea sickness tablets and went to bed. Rich got drunk with the boys!

Day 6 13/12/11

I woke in the night after I thought the engines sounded dodgy. It is really loud in our cabin with the engine and generator and I can hear them even with ear plugs in! I heard the engines turn off at 2.30am which I thought was strange as the navigation was supposed to take all night. When I woke up in the morning and looked out of the window I thought I was still dreaming as it looked like we hadn’t left. I had to go up on deck and look around as I just couldn’t believe we were in the same place! Turns out we were. The engines had started going wrong again after two hours of navigation so the Captain decided to turn back in the night (which took 4 hours) so the boat was somewhere in civilisation to get fixed. Again. This time we were really not happy as we were really looking forward to going to that area of the Galapagos as it is where two currents meet and there is supposed to be even more of an abundance of wildlife, including the flightless cormorant.

We had a powwow with the rest of the people on board and decided we wanted compensation! They agreed to give us a days horse trek to the highest crater on the island and 30% of the days value back in cash. The trek was pretty cool rich’s horse was a bit small and it was in the clouds but we did get really close to sulphur and heated gas pouring out the giant coudera (crater). Bit of galloping from time to time turned out a bit of a laugh. Knacker on return, had the usual good feed a few beers and bed.

Day 7 14.12.11

Boat travelled to Santiago island where we had a walk along the rocks where lava shoots meet the sea forming blow holes and stuff, couple of the nocturnal fur sea lions sleeping in cracks and caves. Loads more sea iggys! Snorkel as always was the best we saw about 7 big sea turtles , 3 big marble rays, loads of fish. As I (rich) was swimming back to the beach following a school of fairly big fish 10” long 2 -3lbs silver. They suddenly all shot of in different directions, I turned to see what scared them thinking it would be a seal to see a blue footed booby just finishing its dive bomb about 6ft deep and just left of my knee. Its weird having a sea bird look at up you from under water as if your out of place! It then calmly bobbed back up to the surface and sat there investigating me.

Back to the boat and sailing for 3hrs to Rabida Island, we embarked on a red sand beach which is a first, with mangrove and a lagoon then big craters to the rear. There was of course a Bull sea lion and the family hanging out on the beach. After a short walk around the point looking at lizards and cacti, we snorkelled around the point. In about 3ft of water in the cliff was a cave with about eight 1.75m white tip reef sharks. I could only really see their tails which was frustrating so I gave one a little tug! This had the desired effect of waking them up and then leaving the cave one by one so I could see then properly.

Shorty afterward swimming passed the large schools of multi-coloured/type of fish, the big bull sea lion cruised under all of us to make sure we weren’t trying it on with his females. Then we came across 3 decent sized spotted eagle rays, and 3 big marble rays on the tip of the point a couple turtles were chilling out and the de-housed white tips keeps coming by, nice. The water was cold but clear and it was the best snorkel session I’ve had to date. It cheered everyone up after the previous day’s slight disappointments.

That night we motored back to where we began, and received our refunds which somehow turned out to 13.75% of what the boat company got paid for the trip = $137.50, a lot more than we thought! (but I didn’t think it was enough) We also found out what others had paid considerably more than us, poor them.

Day 7 15.12.11: After a little token lap around Daphne Major (island volcano) our last glimpses of Boobies diving, seals, iggys and birds we disembarked the Floreana for the last time. We arrived in Porto Ayora via bus again across the whole of Santa Cruz on the same one road! Linz realised she had left her snorkel on the boat, she was not happy!

Found a nice enough place to stay, hotel Espana. We went to arrange diving for the next day, ended up walking to see Lonesome George at the Charles Darwin Research Centre. He is the last giant tortoise of his kind as there are no others left on the island he is from. There a $20,000 reward for anyone who can find a mate for him in the world! He is currently living with two other lady tortoise of a different type and despite efforts to breed the eggs are infertile as it is a cross of two species. On way back we booked diving to north Seymour, the next best place for seeing hammer heads after the notoriously dangerous Gordon Rocks. After a hilarious (for me) session of trying on 7mm wetsuits, everyone else struggling and huffing and sweating and Linz taking the skin off her fingers, we had a nice meal & a few beers (for me anyway) then bed.

Day 8 16/12/11

Got picked up for diving at 7.00am. Back across island on same bloody road! Boats to the dive spot only to see the bloody Floreana on its southern itinerary snorkelling where we are diving. The good news was Lindsey had left her snorkel on board and we got it back. The first dive at the Galapagos was at 18m in 15m visibility (site: North Seymour, el Canal). We saw most of the same stuff from snorkelling but from below. The highlights were a field of garden eels which stick out the sandy bottom like giant blades of grass (linz thinks more like giant green candy canes, weirdo?); they retract into their holes as you get really near but look cool. Above the eel garden a school of a smaller variety of Manta Rays kept swimming over it was rather bloody good. I also saw an Eagle ray chasing after something in the rocks, as it was picking up football size chunks of rocks and tossing them to one side to get to its prey. We passed a fish cleaning station where the bigger parrot fish for example tile vertically to allow a congregation of small fish to peck of parasites etc. Also a big school of Barracuda, nice dive but a little short for some reason Linz and I ran low on air only after 35mins (usually lasts 45 to 50 at that depth)? We put it down to cold water and bloody thick wetsuits? The second dive was a gamble to see either loads of small fish at one site or just Hammer Heads at the other, hammer heads it was. Down at 15m on the edge of a deep drop off we drifted the wrong way so had to swim hard to get passed initial current. We found schools of bigger fish and a spotted sea snake. Then the tail end of a Hammerhead could be seen the other side of the school of fish nearby. We all chased after the fish which effortlessly disappeared into the blue with the expense of more air. Linz and Karen were low on air (but not that low) so got sent off seaward to begin there surfacing. I ran low about 5 mins later and paired up with Andrew (sound Canadian lad) Luckily as we swam through the school of fish we saw the Hammerhead properly it was a bit timid and turned away again. We tried finding it again but ran out of air so surfaced. Major boxes ticked for me but only with a little tick, moral of the dive story is get the dive centre to put 300bar of air into your tanks instead of 200, this would give you an hour each dive of two in one perfectly safe day (not to mention a much better chance of seeing more of the good stuff, Me thinks tripadvisor needs a visit!)

After a nice meal on the front, we went out for cocktails and beers, the girls went home at 10pm lads at 1:15am, sweet. Porto Ayora is actually not a bad little town.

17.12.11, Got up early and put back flights a day, then had nice lazy brecky and went to Tortuga bay 3km walk south of Porto Ayora. Absolutely amazing, possibly the best beach yet, pure fine white sand, turquoise waters, it’s a surf beach too but small that day (gutted). There are sea birds and Iguanas swimming in the surf, pelicans and boobies diving, mangrove, it’s got the lot. Sunbathed and chilled for 5hrs including a visit to the next beach which is a lagoon type beach for canoeing and snorkelling, shame no kitesurf allowed! Had a cheap last meal in town with our irish buddies and bed. 7am taxis booked for airport back up that bloody road!

18.12.11, (discount dave bridges birthday) Taxis was ok, airport had good cheap food and all souvenirs were same price as in town? Then spent the day on aerogal planes, really good airline. Traditional meal in Quito bit weird but ok, Linz had some kind Ecuadorian pork with white corn, yellow corn, a empanada type thing, plantain, maize stuffed with cheese and some potato patties with cheese in. You can’t drink alcohol on Sunday for some reason, first day I can remember without at least one beer since the trip began!

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