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Published: June 18th 2008
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As the sun rose on our 10th day at sea, you could see the Galapagos Islands. The swell dropped and looked like we would see blue sky for the first time in days. Already you could tell there was something special about the place.
I decided to have a quick nap so to be fresh for our imminent arrival. Si was under strict instructions to wake me if anything exciting happened. Within 5 minutes of putting my head down, I got the call. I came on deck to find the water bubbling with fish. It was quiet a site to behold. No more naps for me. We sailed down the North coast of Isla San Cristobal past Kicking Rock which is a small island with a large population of frigate birds. With the binoculars out, you could see hundreds of black birds with this slash of red at their gullet. I later found out that this is the female frigate bird, quiet spectacular.
During passage, we had no luck in the fishing department. After seeing all the fish, we put out a lure in hope of fish for lunch. Within 30 minutes, we caught something big. It started running
down the side of the boat with the lure. As Si pulled him in, its teeth cut the line (nylon trace) and got away. It looked to be either a Wahoo or a Marlin…it was big (we’ve now replaced all the off the shelf lures traces with wire).
We anchored near the other yachts in Wreck Bay. We met Steve, Di & Paul from Independent Freedom who gave us the run down on immigration procedures (an interesting book has been written about this yacht (former owner)). All yachts require an agent to assist in the local formalities (well so the locals say). Our agent, Fernando also organised water and diesel (66c a litre) to be bought out to the boat. Wreck Bay is a delight. It is very clean village, revolving around the tourist industry, its actually the capital of the Galapagos and the people are friendly though they have very little English. We somehow muddle our way through, although while at the butchers, I asked for two chicken breasts (in part Spanish, part English) and ended up with half a frozen chicken. Also at the local video library, I thought we had rented a video for $2.00 only
to be told that we didn’t have to return it manana (tomorrow) as we had just bought it.
Fernando organised a day tour with our own personal guide (a taxi driver with limited English) to see the giant tortoise, the iguana, volcano and past the coffee, banana & orange plantations. Unfortunately there was a lot of low cloud so we could not see much of the volcano. Walking up the hill and the large number of steps, we both realised how unfit we have become. Carlos (our tour guide) also stoped and showed us all the native fruits that grow wild on the island. We are still not sure what is native and what has been introduced but it sure tasted good. The tour ended with lunch at Fernando’s house. It was a lovely lunch that we shared with Fernando and his small son.
There are thousands of seal lions in and around Wreck Bay. They love lying on the back on our boat on the scoop. At first we would try to deter them by throwing salt water over them but as there is no way to stop them, we have just come to the conclusion that
Baby Seal
On back of Woodsia we will get rid of the seal oil prior to departing. They are mostly baby and young juveniles that camp on the back. They are so cute and love you talking to them. They are real poses and love a photo shoot. We had to clean the hull of the boat and they would come up and play. We had a couple of big females who have come along to feed their babes. They take up the whole scoop and are a little stinky. They don’t stay around for long and are a lot more timid than the young ones.
Si went for a dive while I went for a snorkel. We first went to Isla Lobos so that the divers could test out their dive gear and the snorklers could play with the seals. It was great fun except I stayed in the water way too long and took forever to warm up. The next stop was Kicking Rock (where the frigate birds live) where it is known for its sharks, sea turtles, manta rays and big fish. The first dive / snorkel was through a three metre channel (see photo) where there are a lot of black
Si Diving
At Kicking Rock tip & Galapagos sharks and rays. I skipped this one as I was still cold but Si went down 28 meters and had a small shark come within a metre to check him out.
The next dive was to look for hammer head sharks. Si and the dive group did see a hammer head but they (plural) were a distance away and the visibility was average. I went for a snorkel and got to see some sea turtles and big fish. That was plenty for me, sharks really are not my thing.
We have managed to do some good walks and have been to the beach though it smelled of seal pooh. The water is still relatively warm (25c) and we have had some nice days (also some crappy ones). Unfortunately you can only take you yacht to one port and cruising is not allowed unless you get a permit that takes considerable paper work. Greg (Cadans) will arrive tomorrow (Thursday) with some spare parts (sliders for the main) so we will be off on Friday on route to the Marquises. It will take us any where from 21 to 25 days. Will be glad when this one
Kicking Rock
Passage where you dive with sharks is over!!!!
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