The Galápagos Islands - Day 3 (Charles Darwin Research Centre)

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Today we were given the option of walking 2.5km to a surf beach or 3km to a sheltered beach OR walking to the Charles Darwin Research Centre at the end of the main street. Everyone had actually decided last night that the swimming option sounded lovely BUT a very hot and very humid 3km walk back into town for lunch did not. Gina was able to tell Daniela of the groups' decision last night so she arrived this morning ready to escort us to the research centre rather than take us swimming.

Thank goodness we decided to forego the swimming, even the short walk to the outskirts of town was very, very hot, and quite enervating, but we managed it with a few stops in the shade of trees along the way. At the research centre Daniela was able to tell us about the conservation work being done to preserve existing populations and increase dwindling populations. At the research centre we were able to see the other species of land tortoise, the saddleback tortoise. These tortoises have a high, domed shell - somewhat like a saddle would you believe! - and longer necks. These characteristics allow the tortoises to reach up to graze on foliage rather than being restricted to grass like the land tortoises that we visited on Day 1 in the Galápagos.

Daniela explained the work that was undertaken to bring this species back from the brink of extinction. After putting out a call to zoos and wildlife centres around the world they found a male tortoise at San Diego zoo who was able to be brought back to the Galápagos for breeding purposes. Daniela also told us more about the iguanas and the finches that are threatened by an introduced parasite.

As we walked back into town Daniela asked permission at the National Parks Service station to take us into a small bay where we were able to see some wild marine iguanas. There were only a few about as it was low tide and there tend to be more about when the water level is higher. Daniela also showed us a small beach that we could come back to during the afternoon if we wanted to swim. She told us that the high tide was due at around 4.00pm this afternoon.

As we walked back to the hotel we browsed in the shops that we missed yesterday - much to Bernie's delight! By the time we reached the hotel I think we had been into every tourist shop in town, but I still hadn't seen the sleeveless blouse that I fancied at one of the airport shops in a shop in Puerto Ayora. We assumed (bad thing to do!) that it would be available in town AND that it would be cheaper in town!! Oh well, I'm sure that I don't really need it.

David met us back at the hotel and escorted us to lunch. We have so many people looking after us. Gina is with us all the time and David meets us at meal times to escort us to the restaurants that have been booked for the group and to facilitate ordering our meals. National Parks Service guides, Daniela and Felipe, have been doing a fantastic job explaining the geology and the flora and fauna of the islands. Today's lunch was on an upstairs patio area overlooking the sea which was absolutely beautiful. Bernie and I opted for the breaded beef which was delivered to the table topped with tomato sauce and cheese. Imagine our surprise tucking into a veal parma in downtown Puerto Ayora way out in the Pacific Ocean!

We asked Gina this morning if she knew of anywhere in town that might be able to replace the screw in my sunglasses. She said we would find an optical store on the main street. We had spotted 'Optigo' when we were out yesterday, but it was all closed up. As it was not far away from the restaurant we popped along the street to see if it was open today. Nope, but it was not yet 3.00pm - when most shops re-open after lunch - so we decided explore a bit more and then check 'Optigo' on our way back. We ended up walking all the way to the end of town where we found the supermarket. Since we were there we bought another two litres of water at supermarket prices. Everything is always cheaper if you can find the supermarket!

We walked out the pier which had marine iguanas sunning themselves all along its length. Just about melting in the heat, we turned back towards the hotel. When we reached 'Optigo' it was still closed. Hmmn, the owners of this business might be on holidays rather than just closed for lunch?The souvenir shop a couple of doors along was also closed which was a shame because we had seen a couple of things there that a we were thinking about buying. Lesson learned - buy it when you see it because you may not be able to buy it later!

One of the town's jewellery shops was open so we popped in there on the off chance that they would have a jeweller's screw driver that might be suitable to repair my sunglasses. No sorry, we don't keep any tools on the premises, we only sell jewellery, but there is an optical shop along the street ... Ha, yes there is, but it doesn't seem to have been open at any time since we arrived.

Plan B, let's start looking for a cheap pair of sunglasses. We are being taken out on the boat again tomorrow to another one of the islands and I am definitely going to need some eye protection to cut the glare. In the first couple of places we checked there were no sunglasses, but Bernie did manage to buy a bandana to tie around his neck tomorrow to avoid getting any more sun on it. What we really needed was a chemist, but we couldn't find the street where David said there is a row of chemists!

Next try was the mini-market. Of course they probably had sunglasses at the supermarket, but when we were there we still hoped we were going to find the optical shop open!! Yay, the mini-market had sunglasses in a cabinet. I grabbed a fairly plain pair and tried them on for size. OK, they seemed to fit, so we asked how much they were going to cost expecting to be shocked. Fortunately they were only US$7.00 which made them a bargain. They might not be the greatest optical quality, but at least they will cut the glare down a bit when we are out on the water tomorrow. It looks like I'll have to wait until Cusco before I have a chance to have my sunglasses repaired.

Back at the pool we changed into our bathers and tried out the hotel's pool. It was a much closer option than walking back to try the beach that Daniela pointed out this morning!! After a lovely, refreshing swim we showered and changed in time to meet Gina in the bar for our briefing on tomorrow's excursion, our travel to Lima and then on to Cusco and what to expect in Machu Picchu.

Gina talked quite a bit about the altitude and how we might expect to feel with less oxygen in the air. She said not to believe everything that we might have read about drinking cacao leaf tea and eating cacao leaf lollies to help deal with the lack of oxygen/altitude sickness. Gina suggested that we take it slowly on our first afternoon, make sure that we eat and/or drink some sweet things and drink something like Gatorade or Powerade for the electrolytes. She also recommended that there be no jiggy jiggy in Cusco, that this was an activity that should not be undertaken at altitude when the participants are unaccustomed to it - the altitude that is!!

We were supposed to go to a new restaurant for dinner but, apparently, they had a bigger group that wanted to book for dinner so they cancelled our small group's booking. Perhaps Bunnick won't take its business there next time they have a group in the Galápagos?! So we returned to the Pelican View Restaurant and Bar for our dinner tonight which concluded with a delicious orange cake that was in honour of Lidia's birthday.



Steps for the day 12,387 (9.37km)

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