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Published: March 14th 2013
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Here are a few ideas if you are looking for some budget options that may not be in the guide books. Firstly, always try to negotiate on price! Almost everywhere will charge you "gringo prices" which can vary wildly from person to person. We heard of the exact same room going for $10 per person to us, and $25 per person to someone else. I bought the same medicine from the same pharmacy for $10 first time an $8 second time. The locals are used to bartering, and are not offended, they will just say no if you go too low.
Santa Cruz (main island)
Puerto Ayora is the main town in Galapagos. It has about 22000 people, and is small and very walkable. It mostly made up of accommodations, restaurants, and souvenir and craft shops. There are over 500 taxis in the town, all white trucks, and all very safe. It is $1 for a ride anywhere in town, no matter how many people, great option if you are too hot. There is not that much to do here, it is more of a jumping off point for day tours, diving, or cruises. Check out the
local fish market, where you can buy a just landed fish and have them cook it fresh for you right there for about $6. It opens at five and gets very busy, so expect to wait up to an hour for your food. Also, each evening there volleyball games that happen in the centre of town. They are very competitive, as the local pay $50 each to play and many locals go to watch. They play with a soccer pall, and carrying seems to be allowed, but it is fun to see. Lastly, at night they light up the main dock. Go at about 7:30 pm to see sea lions, sharkgo another fish, and huge schools of golden rays. You never know what is going to be there from night to night, but it is free and worth a look.
Accomodations
Best Home Stay Hostel (Kevin is owner) - 2 people around $56 - good option if you are looking for north american style accommodations. Very clean, new building, free water, kitchenette, a/c. Owner is american. Away from town centre, taxi $1 each way.
Brattle hostel, located on calle Enrique Fuentes - 2pp around $20+, price varies
depending on availability and mood of owner. Room resources (eg. hot water, full size walls) vary widely - room 1 is best. In centre of town, great location. Noisy in the day (beginning at 6.30am) but quiet by 9.30pm.
Food - lots of choices, much of it is similar.
Breakfast option try the Bolon (plantain and cheese) with egg. Very filling. $3-5
Lunch - for cheap and filling try Almuerzo, from 12-2.30, soup, drink, rice and a meat or fish dish. Very filling. $4-6.
Dinner out - tastiest places we found, Pelikan View or Isla Grill.
Other recommendation:
Galapagos Deli has coffee, ice cream, pure juices, sandwiches, pizza, cake. Food, cleanliness, service, prices, hours, and quality is very consistent. Best bet in a place where unpredictability (hours, prices) is the norm.
Ili Giogioni - great ice cream.
Beaches
Tortuga bay -amazing, worth the long hot 3km walk each way. Go early morning. If you are there early, go to the last beach and go to the far end near the mangroves. Wade out to your chest and you should have turtles and rays swimming around you. It
is so quiet and they get so close you can hear them breathe. At the main beach we swam with baby sharks at low tide.
Las grietas - go early, packed in afternoon, take water taxi to get there, pass a nice beach, hike through lava rocks and follow the markers. Cool place to swim and snorkel. You can also climb up the rocks and jump off into the water which is very fun. Up to 40 feet if you're brave. The water is 40 feet deep and crystal clear. There is a funky little bar half way there in the middle of nowhere where you can stop for a drink which is cool when it is open, which seems to be random.
Playa Charles Darwin - small local beach, good to cool off, 15 min walk from town centre.
Booking day trips - try galapagos mocking bird agency - they were good for us. Some on that street will say anything to get your money. Also, any taxi driver will take you on a half day tour to 3 places (Los grememos crater, lava tunnels, natural tortoise habitat). $30, no matter how many people.
We used this guy who was great and spoke some English - Manuel, email buen_amigouu@hotmail.com. Phone 0981407417.
Other tips
The airport process is long and cumbersome from baltra island to santa cruz (bus, ferry, bus, around $3) or if you take bus, ferry (.80), taxi ($18). Much easier and better to fly into San Cristobal and hang out there to begin and end your journey.
Unless you want to see the far west or north islands, a boat cruise is not always necessary -day trips will get you to see many animals. Although we ended up doing a lot of good snorkelling and saw galapolos penguins with our cruise. All depends on season. For cruises it looks like you could go down as far as $650 (4 days) or 1300 (8days) if booking from the island.
San Cristobal island
This is the place with tons of sea lions. Lots of bird life too. Great snorkelling day trips. Don't miss out on Kicking Rock!
Accommodations: San Francisco (cheap), northia - negotiate prices.
Isabela island
This was our favourite place to stay in Galapagos and worth at least
few days here. The town is right on a beautiful beach, there are free snorkelling spots, biking, trails, turtle breeding center and flamingos, but very very hot. Good surfing.
Go to the volcano ( worth it to go beyond Sierra Negra and do the 16km total hike to the Chico volcano-amazing landscape, bring lots of water as it is very hot). The Lava Tunels is also a great day excursion, amazing landscapes and great snorkelling. We used a great guide, Joseph, email joseph_tours@yahoo.com. Fono 0991918175
Accommodations- la jungla, on the beach $15per person,negotiate.
No ATMs on the island.
Other islands for snorkelling or birds - fernandina, Santiago, Seymour, Santa Fe, Floreana. Genovesa we heard is great for bird watching.
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Anne Lee
non-member comment
Great Blogging
Hi Glen & Roselyn - What an amazing experience you two are having. Your blog is so informative. Anyone planning to go to Galapagos would be wise to take all your advice. Enjoy and be well. Lv,,,,,,,Anne Lee xo