Laguna

South America » Ecuador » East » Cuyabeno Reserve
November 9th 2005

Published: December 4th 2005

Today was our Laguna day. Laguna Grande is a large lake that feeds into the Cuyabeno River, located about 25-30 minutes upstream from our lodge. Walter, our trusty canoe driver, took us out to the laguna, and drove us around while Diego explained the laguna -- its wildlife and its seasons (dry and wet). At one point someone saw a freshwater dolphin, so we cruised around the laguna, hoping to catch another glimpse of it (or them). I did hear one come up for air, but it was behind the canoe so I never saw it.

Unfortunately this part of the day -- cruising around the laguna -- was not quite as enjoyable for me as it could have been. When we left for our canoe ride yesterday the skies were threatening rain so none of us thought to put on sunscreen. The sun stayed behind the clouds for most of the time we were out on the river, (except for the last hour or so), during which I could feel my poor skin burning. Between my already sensitive skin, the equator and the increased sensitivity due to my malaria pills (which smell like glue, by the way), my arms got completely fried. (Thanks to my trusty Steelers hat my face was spared.) Thus sitting out in the middle of a lake in the sun was horribly painful. I remembered sunscreen today, but nonetheless my skin felt like it was on fire. And so while Diego's laguna lecture was interesting it was a little difficult for me to concentrate.

But we had some excitement when we landed our canoe -- stingrays! The shallow water near the water's edge was full of them! I was quite excited. (They also made me secretly glad that I wasn't going to be swimming later.)

After a tasty lunch we set off into the jungle. We hiked through the jungle, pausing every so often for lessons (courtesy of Diego) about the various plants we came across. Diego even showed us how to make an animal trap (and demonstrated by trying to catch his boot, which was quite entertaining). We made our way back to the lake, where we boarded the canoe -- muddy boots and all -- and rode out to the middle of the lake for a swim. Everyone but the picky and non-swimmers jumped in, and swam in the waning light beneath a giant rainbow in the distance. We had a spectacular sunset that evening and got to see some stars for the first time since arriving in Ecuador. Once it was dark we set out down the river for the lodge, cruising slowly and using our flashlights to look for caimans along the edge of the river. Diego was the first to stop one; all we could see was its eye, shining red in the flashlight's beam. Walter eased the canoe into the trees, and one by one Diego had us come up with a flashlight so we could get a better look at the caiman. Unfortunately, after the second person went up to the front of the canoe the caiman decided that it had had enough and it took off. Apparently it was huge, though -- about 3 meters in length -- and it usually hangs around this particular spot in the river. Thinking back on the swimming our group had done, I asked Diego where caimans usually go in the day since they don't like light, and replied that they hang out in the same place they do during the day -- under the trees, away from the main part of the river.

So, I thought, we could have all been caiman-bait earlier.

Turns out, no. Caimans -- in spite of their obvious size, weight and strength advantage -- are shy and don't usually attack people. In fact, they're only aggressive when their babies' lives are being threatened. I found this information extraordinary. They could be incredibly dangerous animals, and yet they refrain from violence unless absolutely necessary. We could stand to be a little more like them.

The rest of the canoe ride was beautiful. Stars overhead, cool air and bats darting over the water. When we pulled up to the dock we discovered that someone -- probably Juan Carlos -- had lined the walkway from the river to the lodge with candles. And once again we enjoyed a delicious meal prepared by the cook, Monserrat. The best part of the meal was -- as it has been the last two nights -- the company. I feel so fortunate to be sharing this jungle experience not only with my friends but with the other five members of our group as well. They are warm, friendly people, who have had so many experiences traveling all over the world, and yet manage to have completely down-to-earth personalities. Every evening ends with lively post-dinner conversation. I can think of no better way to end a day in the jungle than in the company of these fantastic people.

em

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