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Published: August 8th 2007
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Well after being stuffed from the Indian the night before it was time to head South to Latacunga for a bit of exercise and burning off all the food we ate in Quito. We were planning to partially climb Volcan Cotopaxi, the highest active volcano in the world (5897m) and Ecuador’s second highest peak.
Going from the Lonely Planet which described the 2 hour drive from Quito as ‘Magnificent’ we were looking forward to some nice views of snow capped mountains. The two hour drive summed up the next 4 days, shite. All we got to see was mist and fog and when it wasn’t misty it was cloudy and raining and the only nice views I got to see was the postcards we bought showing what we could have seen! Due to the weather we decided against doing any climbing as didn’t really fancy climbing for a few days to just see fog. On the brightside at least it gives us something to do when we return one day which we will be doing one day as Ecuador has been brilliant and has loads to offer.
After the crappy last few days we decided to head over to
Riobamba to change our fortune, they were having a fiesta to celebrate the anniversary of some war but I can’t remember what!. We got there and it was very similar to what we seen over Semana Santa apart from the armed forces and all the guns! There were lots of people dancing in the streets and a number of different parades from kids to the armed forces. The Armed forces were funny it reminded me of something you see from Russia and China during the cold war lots of men and guns and tanks to rocket launches showing how powerful Ecuador is! I thought all that stuff had died out! What made it comical was then next in line were a few of the local beauty queens on their thrones throwing flowers to the crowd. Men with guns and girls with flowers in a space of a few meters! It was a good few days where we got to try lots of different party foods, all covered in grease or sugar! It was just like being a kid again when the fair was in town!
One of the main reasons for coming her was for the Nariz Del Diablo,
Devils Nose train ride. Which once again the Lonely planet put as 'Spectacular', we have also bumped into people that have done it and they said the same as you get to ride on the roof, which is something that you don't often get to do. Unfortunately (seems to be a word I use a lot!), this has since changed, in February two Japanese tourists were killed, one by decapitation! A phone company put some new cables up across the line and didn't tell the train company, I think you can picture the rest. This meant that we were no longer able to ride the top of the train which we didn’t find out until a few minutes before the train left and many people think is the main reason for doing it.
It all started with an early start at 5am and then to try and get to the station for 6am, 30 mins before the train leaves and to try and get ahead of all the tour groups which we heard try and monopolise the whole train. It didn’t start well, the train was 30 mins late and when it came it was more of a bus
Fair ground gambling.
There was a box of 10 or so different coloured balls and you would bet on which would come first, simple and ingenious! I came second, oh well! on train tracks and it even had a steering wheel, not sure of the point! So there goes the idea of an authentic steam train experience!
The tour companies were pushing people all over the place and a few older French people were going a bit mad with some Germans who they accused of pushing in and a French guy pulled a women of the train and then stood in the door way until all his friends were on, he was first in the queue so had a point but definitely went a bit far and carried it on through out the journey and actually asked other passengers to swap seats with him and his group so they did not have to sit next to any Germans, all very funny to me and once he heard we were English presumed we were on his side, tosser. The main reason everybody was pushing was to get a seat on the right as that is the main side for all the views. I don’t think it made that much difference as you could stand up and take pictures when ever you wanted, it would of been a lot easier if the
people on the right stayed in there seat whilst others behind them tried to take the pictures but that’s common sense for you and some people have none, especially during a mini war when people would block views just for the spite of it, we would of been better on a train with a group of kids. Due to this I had an idea that the accident with the Japanese tourists was no accident at all, they too was on a train full of muppets and one chopped the other ones head of and then dutifully killed himself to put themselves out of misery!
Apart from inside the journey was alright but nothing as 'spectacular' as we were hoping for. They finally let us sit on the roof for about 30 minutes but got a feeling they were not aloud to do this and only did it because they charge 1 dollar for a seat cushion which everybody buys making them 30-40 dollars to split between the staff! Quite a lot of money to give up when you don't get paid too much! My favorite views were the number of switchbacks which the train has to negotiate to travel
Mountain scenery!
The great thing about Riobamba surrounded by mountain scenery. the steep slopes they were an engineering feat in their day and still looked impressive. The only other railway journey we have done which was similar was the Copper Canyon railway in Mexico there was no comparison, Mexico wins hands down.
Anybody planning this journey in the future and are looking for an adrenaline rushed adventure should give it a miss. If you’re looking for a nice tranquil and comfortable train ride (depending on the tourists you get!) then this is perfect. This is something I could see my Gran loving, which probably sums it up!
One thing to add, which made me laugh. The train station the journey ends in was Alausi, where we got the bus back to Riobamba. Whilst waiting for the bus we seen about 60 men of different ages grouped around a store which I automatically presumed were watching some sort of football game so went to have a look. To my surprise they were all watching wrestling (WWF) the Rock against someone I forgot. To see all these local people in there traditional dress watching something so modern looked very strange and they all looked very into it. I was laughing my
head off as it’s so fake but everybody else was transfixed and looked amazed. At one point the Commentator did say I hope all those people in Ecuador are watching, which made it even weirder, like something out of the twilight zone, is the Rock from Ecuador? The other guy defiantly wasn't as he was about 7ft and white with a bald head!? I am sure somebody will tell me. Teaty if your reading this let me know as I keep forgetting to ask you.
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