"Open Air" Showers and Spit Fermented Beverages


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South America » Ecuador » Centre » Puyo
April 24th 2008
Published: June 1st 2008
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Today is our last day in the jungle, emotions for me span the gamut of sadness and relief. Sad that this part of the adventure is coming to a close - there's still so much more to see and do. Relief that we are headed back to civilization and I won't have to worry about giant flying cockroaches the size of my hand crawling on me while I sleep (yeah, the size of my hand!).

Sticky and slightly funky from the strenuous activities the day before we decide to start the day with a shower. As luck would have it, the showers set up for the tourists had no running water. The only running water was a spigot behind the host family's house. A bucket, a pail and open jungle, that's it. Yep, no walls, no curtain but a hell of a view of the Pastaza River. And hot water? Please. But hell, when in Rome...

Freshly showered we prepare ourselves for the last bit of jungle trekking. Today we are told will be a light day as we're headed to a lookout point high in the jungle canopy, no more than 30 minutes. My feet can't take much more in these boots. I've already got two blisters and every step is painful. Word to the wise: If you've got feet bigger than a size 10, best bring your own rubber boots, or believe me you'll pay a price.

At the top my pain is rewarded with an absolutely gorgeous view of the jungle canopy and the snaking rivers of the Pastaza and Puyo Rivers. Though not as light a trek as was made out, the view was well worth the nearly 1000' verticle climb we made. Rested up and photographed out we begin our decent back to the village.

Quick goodbyes to our host family we all load up into a truck and are spirited off back to civilization and to Priscilla's family's house for lunch. We're treated to typical indigenous fare of banana wrapped fish and "jungle beer" also known as chicha. Traditionally chicha was made only by females and given to the males before they took off for the hunt. The women would chew the ingredient (maiz, rice or yuca) and spit it into a pot for brewing with the saliva aiding in the fermentation process. We're told this method of making chicha only exists in the very remote parts of the jungle. However I can't help but wonder, as I'm taking big swigs of this chicha, whether it's been certified kosher. Best not to think about it...

Alas we have to bid farewell to Shacay, Priscilla and the rest of the fam. Hugs and thank yous all around. We get deposited at the bus station and board our night bus to Riobama, home of the famed train that runs the Nariz del Diablo route, that's the Devil's Nose for my non spanish speaking kinfolk.


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