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Published: October 3rd 2010
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Well this weekend started out like any other...I figured I´d get on a bus, that was sure to be driven excessively fast, eat some questionable bus fare and was bound to arrive at my destination about 4 hours after departure. Well the trip started in Puyo at about 500m and rose to a dramatic level, passing the base of Volcano Chimborazo at 6300m. I went from the sweltering junle to icy roads and snow covered peaks in a short few hours. The road only got scarier from there. The driver seemed to ignore what I at first thought was over-used PELIGRO (danger) signs, but before I knew it, the road was littered with crosses bearing the marks of where countless people had lost their lives on the all too slippery roads. Somewhow we made it down safely and continued on to Guaranda where the craggy snow covered peaks were set against green rolling hillsides that looked nothing like where I had come from. I was definitely out of the Oriente! I stayed on the bus talking to an older lady and saw the sweeping countryside with my storyteller beside me. I got off in Guaranda and saw one of the most
picteresque sunsets I have seen yet. After a quick dinner and cold beer I called it a night. Somehow my body clock had me up at 7am but I refused to get up and enjoyed melting my brain watching t.v. for another hour or so. Finally I bribed myself into getting up by agreeing to a hot shower and a delicious breakfast. It is amazing how far 1.50$ goes in the morning here! Coffee, fresh squeezed naranjilla juice, eggs, bread and cheese! In order to get to Salinas, the next stop on the list, I had to flag down a passing camionetta, basically a truck that works as a taxi service and it picks up people along the entire route. So I get to Salinas and it is absolutely breathtaking! It was a clear day (well early on) and the snowy peak of Chimborazo was visible until we reached the small town of 1200 people or so. Years ago the Swiss helped start up a number of co-ops that have blossomed and continue to provide the town with a relative status of wealth. They are known for their cheese (yummm queso andino), chocolates (with spicy ahi!), teas, natural oils and
perserved meats. I tried out a few in the store and brought a selection home for everyone. I also stayed in El Refugio, a community-based hotel that is run by the town´s youth. For a measly $6 I got a privite double bed and my own balcony overlooking the luscious green countryside. I got led on a walk by Patricio, the man who runs the tourist booth. He brought me up the paramo and around the caves...then it started to rain. He proceeded to ask ¨Que tengo que hacer para conquistarte?¨Yes,men here are pretty up front about things and the question alone obviously made me uncomfortable...he retracted the question and walked me back to town as soon as the rain let up. I´ll just chalk that up to a strange encounter. I took a wonderful siesta with the door to the balcony open and awoke to walk into town for a snack. I´m growing fond of the chochos...roasted corn on the cob covered in a variety of condiments for the price of .50. After I bought it I took a look around. At first everything looked normal, older women selling chochos and kabobs in the main plaza, dogs running loose, boys playing soccer and volleyball...and wait?! there were no females! It seems to be a common theme here...lots of men around but very few women. So after a few harmless catcalls I took the hint and walked back to the hotel. I wound up having a few beers with the guys working as well as 4 visiting Italian professors. They were really interesting, working with reforestation and what not in a nearby town. Hopefully the contacts they gave me will one day line up and get me some work!It was cool chatting with the guys as well, comparing music tastes and ways of life. Not that many tourists pass through Salinas so it is still a novelty to chat with foreigners. The next day I woke up early (much to my dismay) to the sounds of donkeys braying. VERY loudly. I took a walk down the dirt road and watched the city come to life. Mass seemed to last for ever...I know this becuase both the store and the town cafe shut down so that the owners could go and worship. Once it all finished up the vollyball and soccer courts filled again and I went about breakfast...Fresh milk , coffee and juice, homemade jam, eggs and bread from the bakery downstairs...why don´t people in the states do breakfast like this?! After buying a few things from the co-op next door I realized I had tabs all over town as no one had change!! $1.50 to the store, $2.00 to the cafe, $6.50 to the hotel....why can´t anyone give change back?! It is so strange that it is up to the customer to search out the change to pay for services rendered! I wound up at the only other restuarnt in town and met Gabby. A one woman machine running a pizza and coffee shop and was able to finagle all the change we had sent to her resturant the night before for beer! So somehow my 50 cent coffee and 45 minute conversation allowed me to pay off my debts all around town! I said my goodbyes and promised to return...I don´t know what it was exactly, but I fell in love with that charming little town. I coud have easily stayed for a week. I caught a camioneta to 4 Corners, with about 8 other people in the cab of the truck with me, where I was told to flag down a passing bus to get to Ambato. After 15 minutes I was still standing there when a car stopped. A man, woman and girl about my age were inside and offered me a lift. I gladly accpeted and so began the next part of the journey. We chatted non-stop: music, customs, food, landscape...and luckily I only opened my mouth and didn´t let it run about the political situation because come to find out the driver was a member of the National Police force. I´m unsure if his invitation to visit him at work in Quito is a good thing or a bad thing considering I let slip that I was going to be staying past my visa date....hmmm....we´ll see. In Ambato I got lunch, with a soup containing what I believe was the spinal chord with some floating intestines and caught my final bus back to Puyo. Lucky me got to sit next to an excessively large, hairy and sweaty man while the child behind us threw up for the better part of an hour. How can one weekend go so well and change suddenly at the very end?? The man finally got the hint that I didn´t want to talk once I put my headphones in and closed my eyes. Now I'm back in Puyo having just bought more shampoo and conditioner. After the theif entered our house last week, I didn´t notice anything missing...until I went to shower Friday morning. Who steals shampoo?!?!?!??!!??!?!
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Donna
non-member comment
you are amazing
Girl you are so amazing. I am glad you are having such a time (minus the fat, sweaty guy on the bus). Keep posting.