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Letting Off Steam
After a long stretch of inactivity, Tungurahua Volcano began to spew steam on January 1st. Mama Tungurahua started making noise and spewing steam again on January 1st. The active volcano is the star of this blog entry!
From Shana's house, 5 miles from the volcano's crater and 2 miles from her base, we could hear rumbling and churning all throughout the day. It sounded like a propeller plane hovering overhead.
In the mornings, when the sky was often clear, great churning plumes of smoke were visible spouting from the crater. The first few days they were bright white, probably steam - but soon enough dark grey columns of ash would form, pulsing forth with each new rumble. I must have shot 150 photos in all -- I couldn't stop snapping -- the images grew more dramatic after each click of the lens.
The wind blew most of the ash over the hills and away from the valley where Banos is situated. The town of Banos was evacuated about 12 years ago when the volcano began to erupt in earnest and thick flows of lajar (ash mixed with mud) blocked all the road in and out of the town. It took Shana almost 10 years to return to her home in
Rosy Ash Display
During the first week of the new year, the volcano built up power and began churning out ash. Amazing colors at sunrise and sunset. Banos, but she's been living back there for several years now.
At night, the neighborhood dogs would start up a chorus of barking and howling. Did they know something we didn't? Even with my earplugs in, it became hard to sleep through the night. Was it the energy of Mama Tungurahua, rumbling like an internal blender? Or perhaps the occasional, bed-shaking kerthnks that rattled the windows in their frames and sent me running out to see if I could catch a glimpse of the lava flow (I did twice! - but I never once felt frightened by the volcanic activity).
At the hot baths and in town the volcano was all anyone could talk about. Early morning, soaking in the mineral springs we would ponder if the water actually felt hotter due to the volcanic activity. Shana's cardiologist came by to check her blood pressure and told us that he'd just been to an evacuation preparation meeting in the nearby city of Ambato. We should expect to hear them trying out the sirens in the coming day, he said. But, he stressed, I will call you directly and personally if there's any reason to
Georgia O'Keefe Cloud Backdrop
Each time I looked up at the mountain, she presented a new and fascinating facade. The play of ash and cloud got my camera clicking at full speed! be worried.
Some of the volunteers who had been working at the library (la BIB - Biblioteca Interactiva de Banos) packed a small emergency bag to have close at hand, but Shana and I continued our routine of morning scrabble, working in the garden, cooking sumptuous meals. Mangos were in season so at 4 for a dollar we bought a bunch and made a huge batch on mango chutney (yum!) to give away as holiday gifts. Since Shana and I worked together on the chutney, I gave it the label, Cuatro Manos (four hands).
I loved being able to just step out into the garden and pick broccoli or turnips or carrots or beets. The lemon and tangerine trees were always laded with fruit, as were the black raspberry vines. Not to mention the fresh herbs from the raised spirals. Amazingly satisfying to eat directly from the garden!
Plenty of socializing over the holidays...on Xmas eve we were invited to Mac's Dad's 60th Bday gathering. Mac and Meghan managed to get almost 20 of their relatives to come down from the US to join Jack in celebrating his milestone birthday. Shana
Ash Tableau
Once she'd been pumping ash for hours, the new plumes which followed each rumble made an overlay contrast on the dispersing ash. and I were honored to be included in the dinner party. The following day, Mac & his brother & his Dad took off to climb Cotopaxi volcano...sounds like a good thing to do when you turn 60!
Christmas night a group of the library volunteers coordinate a big turkey dinner at Stephanie's ample (and bizarrely decorated) apartment. The fake stone painting places the decor as Early Flintstone! A delicious and joyful time was had by all! New Year's eve was very low key -- asleep before midnight, but awakened by the boom booms so I peeked out in my nighty to watch the fireworks display below in the town. Even though it's a quirky custom to burn effigies representing the "old year", I decided to forgo the crowds int he streets and try to get a good night's sleep. Especially important since I had to work the next day. On New Year's day I offered an extra pair of hands to my friend Patrick, a restaurant owner who was to cater a party of 60 wealthy Ambatenos. All went smoothly -- very well organized and coordinated. In repayment, Shana and I enjoyed a huge, elegant meal at
Boby on the Bridge
I enjoyed a slumber party overnight visit to friends who are renting an adorable cabin on the road to the jungle, an hour beyond Banos. his restaurant.
I continued to remain very active with the library - facilitating Tuesday evening Intercambios (Exchange) -- a challenge to plan for as you never know how many Spanish speakers and how many English speakers will show up. I left some planning and activities tips with the volunteers who will be continuing the weekly Intercambios. I took a group of young volunteers down to the next town for a Rural Literacy Outreach Program on Saturday. Perhaps I'll have some photos from this excursion on my next blog. The most fun was the pipecleaner eyeglasses that everyone made and wore!
Took a short break from Banos, heading down to visit friends who are renting a cottage in Mera - an hour past Banos towards the jungle. Jody and Boby invited me for a sleepover at their hideaway cabin. It's built above the confluence of two creeks...it's said to be auspicious to live over water. I just found it relaxing and peaceful!! We played cards (Grandpa, I still haven't forgotten how to play Casino!), did some embroidery projects, watched the leafcutter ants make their industrious great marches, and marvelled at the flora.
Jody at the Mera house
Bathing Beauty Jody hangs out the wet towels after our swim adventure at the water park. Together we explored the Mera Water Park, a dammed up swimming hole, big water slides, etc. Boby is a big kid (older than I am!) and he tried zooming down the slides on his blow-up raft (reduces friction he claims). He got to go a few times before the raft was punctured! If felt great to swim in COLD water (it was nippy!) -- I'd been keeping up with the 3x wkly swims in the warm pools at the hot baths - swimming in bathwater is a very different experience -- the bracing chill of the waterpark pools set my heart racing as I swam hard and fast to keep warm.
Having a truck definitely has its downsides...first off, I don't do near as much walking as I should. I made an effort to get out for a hike at least once a week. Really enjoyed observing the finer details of Banos culture and beauty. Some of the attached pictures should give you a glimpse of what I was seeing. Next downside, repairs! A mechanic just down the hill from Shana's house helped me to get new shocks installed, as well as other repairs and adjustments. I
Lip Blossom...mwah!
Right beside Jody & Bobby's cabin we found these unusual flowers. When they first bloom they have a bright blue center! would drop off my truck for work and set off on foot for exploring! And finally, the biggest hassle of all is getting the truck re-registered every year.
Administrivia in Ecuador is beyond nightmarish! I finally hired a legwork man to guide me thru the maze of inspections and paperwork. I had to have documents notarized giving him permission to represent me, and help me change the provice where I register my vehicle. Since I bought it in Guayaquil, I'd been having someone else help me keep it legal down there...but now that they've passed a law that you MUST do you OWN registration, I got (what I thought were) all the necessary documents to change the province. OY! Let's just say that $350+ and several months of running around later and I'm still driving on expired documents (with bank receipts proving I've paid up thru 2010, but no official documents in my hands yet.) What a maze of confusion, miscommunication and ineptitude. Fingers crossed I'll be able to get it all legal before long.
I enjoyed getting back to teaching Spanish again. For the last few weeks I was in Banos I worked
Red Bananas
A sure sign you're dropping down towards the jungle. 2 hrs a day with Stephanie, a Canadian volunteer who's been travelling thru Latin America for 8 months with her kids. As I was preparing to leave Banos, she and the kids threw me a big farewell party. It was nice (and a bit embarrassing) to be lauded as a valuable volunteer at the library.
HEY FRIENDS!!!!!!!!!!!!I know the economy sucks just about everywhere but I'd like to give you an update on the little coastal school where I am the godmother, and make another PLEA for DONATIONS.
We have finally succeeded in getting the school fiscalized, meaning that the Ecuadorian Ministry of Education is paying a teacher's salary (one teacher for 30+ kids in 7 grades!) as well as providing books, uniforms, breakfasts and lunches. I will continue to help supplement one more salary, so there will be at least 2 teachers to cover all the grades.
In addition, we are in need of donations for our SCHOLARSHIP FUND. There are currently 4 students who have graduated from the primary school (goes thru 7th grade) and are receiving financial assistance (from our FUND) to cover their High School Education (8th-12th grade)
New Year's Dollies
It's the custom here to dress these papier mache effigies and stuff the pockets with the past year's memories, then burn them on New Year's Eve. in Puerto Lopez (25 minute bus ride from Las Cabanas de Ayampe, where the primary school is located). It costs about $360 per kid per school year - this includes bus fare, matriculation fees, uniforms, books, and school supplies.
If you could squeeze out a check for even $25 or $50 to help us out, we'd be very grateful. I am convinced that one (or more) of these kids will go on to make a difference for their community and for their country! As in the past, my friend in Atlanta will receive the checks and deposit them in my stateside account (so the checks should be made out to me, Jill Sare). I will then make the transfer to the Ecuadorian bank where we have our scholarship account. SO - put your check in an envelope addressed to:
June Neumark, 702 Cedar Chase Cir NE, Atlanta, GA 30324 MIL GRACIAS!!!
My next travel blog will be coming up soon....I'm in relax mode for the next few weeks, with lots of time on my hands so stay tuned for news of my week with the Engineers Without Borders and my arrival on the coast
Roasting Cuy (guinea pigs!)
Downtown Banos -- the smell of roasting rodent wafts through the street. They first spin them on a metal wheel to cook them slowly. again after several months away. All too soon, I'll kick into high gear again to go back for managing the hotel for 2 more months.
Would love to hear from you if you have time to drop me a note!!! Much love from Jill
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regina
non-member comment
scary!
Hi Jill, Your blog is always incredibly beautifully photographed and written. I will write a check for the school next time I can pay myself, I promised you months ago, I know. The volcano looks really scary - I hope everyone will be safe, and especially you! Love, Regina