Cuidad Perdida

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We left Hotel Miramar and travelled to Parque Nacional Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta in a converted jeep. After a good couple of hours or more we were dropped off by the jeep and were fed a decent lunch at the local ‘restaurant’, which seemed to be the last line of civilisation in the jungle. While we were getting acquainted with the guys who would be our fellow trekkers for the next five days, we were all wondering where the driver (whom we presumed was the guide) had gone. There were two Colombians in the front of the jeep. The driver who looked young fit and healthy. The passenger, complete with a barrel as a belly looked old, obese and unfit. As we sat looking around thinking ‘where did the driver go?’ We probably overlooked the fact that because he was the driver, that’s all he does! As we wait for another person to turn up, it started to dawn on us that the obse man was in fact our guide. With the reputation that this trek has we all thought that this couldn’t be so. But of course it was.

As we finished the last of our lunch, other groups finishing the trek started to appear through the forest. Our fresh faces examined the trekkers, who in turn looked hot, worn out and sweaty. So the rumours were true, an expedition not for the faint hearted!
We set off armed only with a small rucksack each, containing the bare essentials, left the last strands of civilisation and started the hike into the jungle. Today we would only have to trek for around 3 hours, before we would get to the first camp. The first kilometre or two was under the tree line, following riverbanks and the first opportunity of a swim where the river opened up into a pool. With most of us skipping the swim we continued up above the tree line and gained a few hundred metres in height as we trekked up the hill edge. We started at around an altitude of about 200m. As the climate here is extremely humid, the going is pretty tough. Carrying plenty of water is a must to replenish the litres of sweat lost. The first day’s scenery didn’t really live up to the name of the trek. It was mainly trekking of hard work and sweat. We started to wonder: is five days of this worth it?

As we arrived at camp we were greeted with a nice stream, a shelter for our hammocks and, hidden in the undergrowth, a waterfall with rock pool!! We all went swimming to wash off the day’s sweat and, of course ,messed around in the rock pool! After a massive feast for dinner we retired early to our hammocks complete with the very necessary mozzie nets!

Up early we had a very good breakfast and started the day’s trekking along with piña (pineapple) our canine friend who joined our group during the previous day. Apparently he continually joins groups to trek to the lost city and back. We were also joined by another guide who would take the rest of our supplies further into the jungle. As we trekked further into Parque Nacional Sierra Nevada the scenery dramatically improved, turning into lush green rolling forested peaks.

We soon came to the first river crossing; as the water is well over ankle deep it is necessary to remove boots and cross the rocky river bed. After crossing, obviously all that’s needed is to quickly dry off your feet and continue. But as I held my boot in position to put it back on my foot, I saw something move in there. While shaking my boot I dislodged a scorpion that was a good 8cm long! It then dawned on me that that was what I’d thought was a piece of mud, lodged under my big toe. So for the last twenty minutes or so I had been chancing my luck, probably to the limit. Now I don’t know what the effect would have been if I had been stung, but being this far in the jungle, it could have had extremely serious consequences.

As the trek continued we passed small indigenous settlements and of course the Colombian army! Most jungle regions in Colombia are infested with Colombian guerrilla groups (like FARC) who mainly hold kidnapped persons, produce cocaine, smuggle goods, launder money…So in response the government has attempted to regain control on certain areas of its territory. Parque Nacional Sierra Nevada is such an example. We had another short day of trekking - only three and a half hours worth. Dinner was another impressive, lavish and generous affair. We rested again in hammocks under camp two’s shelter.

We started early again, and by now everything I have brought with me is damp. The days are hot and humid, so sweat soaks anything I’m wearing. The nights on the other hand are cold and damp. Washed clothes can’t dry and everything else becomes damp just from the air. Nice. Starting as early as we can to try and escape the heat we set off. The trek is now starting to turn into a scene from Indiana Jones. The landscapes become even more impressive and the river crossings even more regular. The river by now has turned into a collection of strong rapids. With the water line over my waist it was a real effort to cross and not be swept downstream by the raging currents. The rapids made getting your footing a challenge as was keeping the rucksack/boots out of the river! As we climbed one hill we were greeted with a nice incline only to have to climb an even larger hill. By now we had reached around 800m in altitude, had to clamber over slippery rocked waterfalls, use tree roots as rails and even participated in the odd rock climb or two. After half a day’s trekking we had made our way to the final camp.

We stopped for another massive lunch, dumped our rucksacks and started the final ascent to the lost city. With only forty more minutes to trek we found ourselves crossing the river six more times, more rock climbing and the most treacherous terrain we had seen. The final climb would come from 1200 steps built by the ancient constructors. Still set in lush forest the steps led to an absolutely amazing lost city. Networks of staircases connect over a hundred stone terraces between 950m and 1200m. Some of the terraces are in fine shape and the view from atop the ridge Ciudad Perdida is built upon is truly worth the effort. It’s plain to see that the forest is taking back some of the city which had been cleared, but as we walked around the city it was also plain to see that there is so much that hasn’t seen daylight is centuries - vast really isn’t the word. I found Ciudad Perdida to be a highly underrated site. I even preferred it to Machu Picchu or any of the other so-called lost worlds. Its grandeur definitely captivated all of us.

There was another surprise at the lost city - the presence of the Colombian army. Logically, they had used some of the terraces as an army base. As we explored the city we came across many of the soldiers, who were just as friendly as any other Colombian. In fact before we knew it we were posing with them for photos and then posing with their machine guns in our hands! To say that the Colombian army is a relaxed army isn’t far off. Mind you most of them were barely nineteen and being stuck up here for months at a time they seem to be thankful for the company. As they had a football we decided to have a game, trekkers v Colombian army. Surreal thought I know and, yes, we did lose.
We returned to our camp via the route we took up to the largely unexcavated site. We had dinner and rested again in our hammocks for the night.

The return journey would see us following roughly the same route in a speedier two days. Because the trek has two hills to walk up and down, getting back to the jeep in two days was actually very hard work. By now we are all tired and the hill we skipped down on the second day now needs to be scaled. For a good hour we climbed in the mud left by the rainy season, in the now hot, humid conditions. The fourth day therefore proved to be the biggest challenge of the trek - a day of around seven and a half hours’ walking. At the end of day four we found ourselves back at camp number one and the refreshing waterfall.

The last day saw us reach the restaurant that we started at after a few hours’ trekking. We had a celebratory lunch and met the group about to start the trek. As they enthusiastically enjoyed their first lunch together we smirked and told them it was a walk in the park…

After five days the whole group was tired and in need of a hot shower, clean clothes and a good bed for a decent night’s sleep. The journey (which is what it is) was an unbelievable experience. At times you really do feel like an explorer, having adventures of Indiana Jones’ standards! The mystical lost city provided the ‘find’ at the end. A real ancient city, a city not overrun with tourists and a city still very much claimed by the surrounding jungle - an experience that was worth every step.
Full Photos on Flickr

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