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Published: January 26th 2009
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The paramo of Chingaza
Don’t know what a paramo is, no worries, neither did I until Moka told me about them. A paramo is an alpine eco system that is found in the tropical Andes above 3000 m.a.s.l., in Colombia, Ecuator, Venezuela and Costa Rica. It is guarded by Fraliones, a kind of small funky palm, and even just a quick visit will leave you physically and mentally refreshed. PART ONE
At Chingaza National Park just a couple of hours from Bogotá, the landscape has been shaped by glacial movements, it is rugged and striking. Deer watch us pass as we ascend the winding road and appear completely indifferent to our presence. Mountains are not rounded gentle peaks, but dramatic sharp lines jutting out from the earth, like toast from a toaster. The layers of rock are chipped and brittle with an icing of moss and grass spread over the top.
Having booked and paid, (COL$70,000) for our entrance to the park, using phone, internet and fax the day before, we pass over our permission slip to the ranger and head up to the sacred lakes of Siecha. Living here in the mountains, having never been to
the ocean, I can easily understand why these lakes, and others such as nearby Guatavita, were and still are, deemed as sacred. In the times before we paid a fee to receive water from taps in our homes, water, as a source of life, played a major role in the activities of daily life. Here where rivers are born, and lakes are placed, I too would be grateful for their existence, perhaps even make an offering of thanks.
This respect and reverence for these lakes was exploited by the arriving Spanish, and like other lakes in the area, were cut on one side with a great gash and drained of a large percentage of water to find sunken gold. Some was found, in fact here at Siecha was found the famous ‘golden boat’, depicting a leader dressed in gold on a ceremonial raft with several rowers/guards. (The same Muisca ceremony I described in the ‘El Dorado’ entry.) Although when it comes to gold, there never seems to be enough, a recent national Geographic article outlines the human demand of gold as well as the cost to our environment - it is worse now than ever before.
It was interesting
to see a group of about 8 people standing in a circle barefooted on the lakes shore, passing a cigar between them, whilst talking about Mother Nature.
Here in the paramos, a mountain can appear or disappear in a matter of seconds. The wind whisks the mist over the land and as we come over a ridge I see a glacial valley, now just grass, flowing below us, and a massive ‘love boat’, shaped hill standing behind it. I literally stop in my tracks and take 20 photos, feeling the need to capture the scene from every angle and to do so I stop every 5 seconds. This is also an advantage as it is a pretty steep up hill slog: I feel like a combie van heading up Takaka Hill. (A steep hill near Nelson in NZ that is notorious for the death of many Volkswagon combie vans.)
It took a good few minutes to see the lake that Moka was pointing to, but finally it emerged from the mist and I was able to take more photos. My new philosophy with taking digital photos is the more the merrier. I learnt my lesson in Egypt where
I limited myself to one memory card - silly girl! By the end of the day I will have filled a GB card, roughly 400 photos. We made our way down to the edge of Siecha Lake to stop for a snack and marvel at the reflections on the waters still surface
Walking to all three lakes, (Siecha is accompanied by two smaller lakes, the first is Fausto and the second is America) was fun and when Mr Sun / Senor Sol decides to shine on us we were over the moon. The increase in light allows us to take even better pictures and capture the beauty in more detail. We told the ranger we would be back to collect our car around 2pm. It is only 12:30 so we decide to climb to the highest point on Lake Siecha’s rim. The last section is quite hard and I realise why I don’t enjoy rock climbing - I am a weak girl and my wobbly arms just won’t pull my body weight up over the vertical flat rock face. Thankfully there is a little hole on the other side of rock that I manage to squeeze through then clamber
to the top. Luck would have it that by the time we got to the top it was 3pm and so cloudy we could only see about a metre ahead.
Deciding it is time to head off, we receive a conselation view of the three lakes in one vista together a little lower down. Walking the whole perimeter of the lake we have an alternative way back to the car and enjoy a different perspective of the lake. With thunder roaring at our backs we hasten our speed and thank Hernando for giving us waterproof ponchos. It is my first time wearing waterproof poncho, and I reckon they are pretty good. Because they go over your bag and over your legs save the tops of your knees from getting soaked. We had our jackets on underneath so I felt warm, dry and protected. Go the poncho!
Skipping back to carro negro, through the land of Fraliones I felt happy and content, optimistic and positive. I don’t want to leave!
PART TWO
Packing at 6am is never a wise decision, yet I find myself doing it far too regularly. We remembered the dishwashing soap, the salt and pepper,
the sugar and coffee, the pot and scrubber, yet some how we forgot to pack the cooker! Luckily for us the campsite is a 5 star one, complete with a big brick bbq and firewood. The ranger kindly lended us some matches and we found some life saving newspaper in the boot of carro negro - Thanks Hernando. Before long we were sipping wine under the star soaked sky and enjoying soup with avocado. (I never really ate much avocado before Colombia, but now I am converted. One a week is suppose to be good for woman and great for your skin. They now have a permanent spot on my shopping list.) The fire is perfect to stand next to and warm my freezing arse. I am also kept warm by the super cool new hat and gloves, direct from Eduardor, that were gifted to me by Hernando in the morning before leaving - Thanks. Again!
Before bed we heat some extra water and make a jelly for breakfast the next day, damn fine idea.
PART THREE
After some jelly and cake we get the fire going again and have some eggs for breakfast. (Roughing it can be
tough.) It is raining lightly and the wild deer are still hanging around just metres from our tent. There is a loop track near by so we spend the morning gazing at spider webs covered in a morning dew that seems to last all day, talking to deer, and finally walking down a river back to the campsite. I suggest to Moka that he ask the government to sponsor him for a sign-making project in Colombia. The entire time we have been walking the only signs we have see are small rocks placed strangely on other larger rocks and a couple of ribbons on trees - some ribbons are not even on, near or related to the track.
Back at the campsite we say good-bye to the ranger, thanking him for his help and praise the facilities. On the way out of the park we pick up a hitchhiker, and then another, and just as we are about to leave the park, we get a flat tire: Journey completed.
Paramo’s are Mother Nature in all her mystical and misty charm. They touch your soul and make you glad that even in ‘corrupt Colombia’ they have the sense to
respect her and create a National Park.
A big thanks to Hernando, your experience is our lesson. To carro negro, who was a real trooper, driving up steep hills and over bumpy roads for hours on end. But mostly to Moka who is the worlds best driver and most amazing husband. Te amo angel.
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Brad
non-member comment
Hey
Some amazing pics right there