Hiking the W-Trek, Torres del Paine

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Friday 27th - Monday 30th January 2023

Boarding the bus, with all the other tourists, we were super excited to be on our way to Torres del Paine to start our 4day/3night trek, as well as super aware at how busy it seemed to be! After showing our national park passes and switching to a shuttle bus (which was still like a coach) we saw the peaks of the Torres towers basking in the orange sunlight and they looked magnificent; as well as a little scary. Arriving at the Central Hostel, where many start this trek, we became even more aware that it is not just W-trekkers that come here, but families, tour groups and day trippers who also, understandably, want to see the famous towers of Torres del Paine up close. So, slowly but surely, we joined the line of people moving along the path marked ‘Torres base mirador’.

Thankfully, as people set their own paces, the one long snake became lots of shorter ones and we were soon away and starting the climb up. The sun was already hot and it wasn’t long before we were sweaty but then, as we gained height and passed ‘windy corner’ we were suddenly met with strong gusts of wind which helped cool us down. The trail evened out a little here, following the river below before dropping to the first hostel. Wanting to avoid getting caught up at the watering hole, we hiked straight on, crossing the river and into woodland, weaving through the tall trees all swaying and bending with the wind, hoping today was not the day for one to break; as, looking at all the dead wood on the floor, many apparently do!

Then came the steep section, and it was way more rocky than we were expecting, and than many families were expecting too by the looks of it, for a trail labelled as easy with no technical parts. As we neared the top, the trees shortened and cleared and the rocks became more like boulders, as we hoped from one to the other and the wind got stronger, and then, turning the corner on the last incline, there they were. Three huge jagged points, standing heavily around a shimmering turquoise glacial lake and many, many, many people getting their perfect selfie with it. The wind was not only stronger now, but painful as the freezing gusts whipped round from all directions; I guess this helps with the flow of people though, as no one was lingering up there the long.

Attempting to get back down was the trickiest part though, as now you had to negotiate not only the large rocks but also the hundreds of people either going slower in front of you, or going faster and trying to overtake you, and then those coming up the other way too. Making it back down eventually, the rain started to flutter on and off, and the air was cold. However, we were happy to find out the fully equipped camping we had booked at Chileno was pretty decent, and after a cup of tea and a hot shower, sat for a while just people watching. We were also pleasantly surprised at the veggie dinner that evening and, despite it still being light, soon found ourselves drifting to sleep by 9pm.

After a staggered sleep (the wind in the trees makes a surprising amount of noise) our feet soon found the trail again and were grateful to find it became much quieter as we veered right off that main track up. Taking the higher route across the side of the mountain, we enjoyed winding along the dry, dusty, rollercoaster trail, through spikey bushes and colourful flowers. The sun was out and not too hot, and with less wind and endless views of turquoise lakes and snow topped mountains, it was pretty serene. The wind did then start to pick up and we almost got blown off one higher viewpoint and later, found ourselves being pushed about when walking through an expanse of dead trees and over gusty headlands. It weirdly calmed for brief periods when edging along tranquil pebble coves, until eventually, we reached our second camp spot at Frances. Similar to the previous, albeit a much older tent with duck tape on it, we sat on one of the risen platforms staggered on the wooded hillside with the trees swaying above us once more. The toilet and shower block here was much better though (newer and bigger) and we were treated to more tasty veggie food for dinner before settling quickly again to sleep.

We were determined to get up and go a little earlier on the third morning, knowing it was a bigger walk, but after chatting too long to some nice people at breakfast, we ended up leaving at the same 8:15 time. A few steps along and we found one of the guys we’d been chatting too, Nathan from the USA, and ended up walking and chatting to him for the rest of the trail up the French valley. We all really liked this section, as it climbed steadily up the valley through shady woodland, following the river upstream, with the moody mountains channeling us along and a big glacier thundering and booming occasionally beside us. Reaching the half way viewpoint (where a lot of people stop as the best view is from there) we were all amazed at how this frozen water could just sit precariously on the mountain with snow blowing up in the wind on top.

Feeling good, we all continued on to the end point, through more beautiful woodland and increasing rocky sections. Reaching the final high outcrop and the ‘end of trail’ sign, we sat admiring the view of the valley stretching downwards, another glacier further away, and being circled by a staggering arrangement of sharp towers of rock. With dark clouds sitting above them, and the wind beginning to pick up and whisper around the hillsides, it felt like something out of lord of the rings. Making our way speedily back down the valley, we were glad we hadn’t left it too late, as the midway viewpoint was now pretty busy and the wind was increasing quickly. Reaching the bottom of the valley, Nathan headed back to Frances Hostel, as his tour agency had weirdly booked him two nights there, and we headed right, onwards to Paine Grande.

Beginning to feel tired, this section seemed a little longer than we had hoped, but we found ourselves hiking away relatively easily (maybe some muscle memory working there!), up and over the gentle hillsides, past more dead trees (forest fires?), and along another lake edge. Whilst the wind made things harder, it was cool to see it whisking up water in the lake and creating mini cyclones. The landscape also turned from big mountains to gentler hill side slopes and it briefly almost felt like Scotland. Paine Grande was a much bigger site, with lots of tents dotted about on the more open hillside. Three out of three, it was another tasty dinner, and after some stretching and chilled time by the lake, sat sheltered by a bush, we were soon settling to sleep.

Day four had arrived already, and after ignoring the first alarm due to it raining heavily outside, we left later then planned once again. Knowing we needed to be back for the ferry, we were uncertain if we’d make it all the way to the endpoint of todays valley, but, with that muscle memory kicking in again, we found ourselves beetling along with relative ease; despite the harsh wind and flutterings of rain. Today bought more gentle climbs up and down, along pebbly paths, over wind blown rocky tops, down stoney mini-river steps, across old wooden bridges and through calming woodland; it was a beautiful part of the trek. It also gave some amazing views of more snowy mountains, moody clouds, vivid rainbows, large deep blue lagoons, and icebergs! Yep that’s right, actual mini icebergs that have broken off from the huge glacier we were heading to.

Again, a lot of people stop and turn around at the main viewpoint midway on the trail, which does offer a fantastic view of the glacier ahead, but having reached there in good time, we decided to carry on and go for it. Heading down and along we really enjoyed this part of the trail and were glad we’d made the effort. Passing Grey Hostel, we suddenly emerged on the last rocky point of land before it submerged into the milky grey, cold water, with Grey Glacier standing tall just across it in-front us. Magnificent. I was hoping we’d get a bit closer but it was still a very cool sight to see and, standing back from a higher viewpoint, you can really get a sense of just how huge this mass of bright blue solid ice is. A short rest here and we soon found our feet were walking again, back along this beautiful stretch of trail. It is a shame it’s not a slightly different path, but actually, walking the other way does give a different perspective and you notice things you missed before; like dragon shaped icebergs!

I’m not sure why we debated over whether we should or shouldn’t go for the full hike today and worried so much about being back for the ferry, because we made it back with plenty of time. We had done it! The full W-trek, in Torres del Paine National park, in Patagonia, and what a beautiful trail it was. Bumping back into Nathan, we celebrated with a couple of beers, before loading ourselves onto the catamaran ferry like sardines and then onto a dusty bus, for the bumpy ride back to Puerto Natales.

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