Valparaiso Various Views pt 2

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Hi again,the sun is shining but I am feeling guilty for not writing for a few days, so thought I would spend some time and a bottle of Chardonnay with you while I continue to write about some of my other days of the last week. I had not been on a formal or informal tour of Valpo since arriving many weeks ago.One of my usual routines in a place is to take a bus tour or some other orientation to get to know the place where I am staying.Since there are no bus tours I looked elsewhere and came across Michael the Pirate. Yes yes I know stay away from pirates, I have already been warned, but Michael came well recommended by by British ex neighbours in the apartment and is also mentioned in the guide books and web sites as being unique and of good value.Michael is a German man who has been in Chile for many years now and along with a Chilean wife and extended family has put down roots here on the coast.I contacted "The Pirate" through the internet,which I should say certainly has transformed travel in much the same way it has transformed the rest of our endeavours.I was looking for a tour of Valpo and also a tour of the wine region around the area,the 'casablanca valley'.Michael was immediately ready with times available and possible structure for the tour depending on my interests and of course my physical capacity to wander over the hills and up and down the stairs that are so much a part of life in this city.I assured him of my new found mountain goat traits and we decided on a time.He arrived at my appartment on time and off we went on foot to see the city and hear about its character and history.Micheal is a friendly laid back guy a little younger than I with great english and of course german and spanish.We wandered around the neighbourhoods with Micheal telling me about the things that have shaped the city and the people who live here.As with much of South America earth quakes have had a dramatic impact on this city and I learned of the big quakes and destruction that was then followed by the rebuilding and modification of the city.I still look at the homes built on the hilllsides and question what if any lessons have been learned.There have been a few small quakes in the time I have been here and like so many places along the pacific rim it is just a matter of time.The other factor that shaped this city,perhaps more shaped its decline was the opening of the Panama Canal,which in many ways led to the decline of this once great seaport.

Much of the 'Plan', which is the flat land near the water, is reclaimed land and I was shown pictures of the past from paintings and also markings in the plaza of where the shoreline used to be.Michael carried a binder of old photos and pictures of paintings that were helpful in giving me the perspectives of times gone by and likely lost to so many around today.We wandered around and occasionally would stop into small businesses,a printing shop, a tailor,a metal worker, and chat with the owners scratching out their livings in these small enterprises.Michaels tour had a great deal of humanity and social justice to it and the working people of Valpo were introduced to me in an honest and respectful manner and I never felt like a voyeur but more of an anthropologist.We seemed to be able to go where no one else was allowed.At one point we went in through a side door to access the stock exchange which was closed.No one seemed to mind us and while Michael chatted to the men inside I took some photos and wandered around. Many of the buildings downtown and even some of the door sills on the cerros are made of Italian marble Michael told me came across the seas as ballast on the ships that went home filled with nitrate and other commodities from Chile.At another point we walked into a firestation and wandered around the back rooms and the main hall without anybody being concerned.Michael was always aware of security though and carried pepper spray with him, which he told me he had never had to use in 7 years until a few weeks ago when he had to spray a man menacing him and some tourists in a bad part of town they had stopped by to take a photo from a lookout.

It was time for lunch and Michael suggested we go to the 'Hamburg' restaurant to meet the 'crazy german' who ran the place, and also have a good meal.I had seen the Hamburg before,as it is near the grocery store I shop at, and also a brew pub where I enjoy an afternoon ale on a hot day.From the outside it is nondescript save for a couple of shelves of sailours hats from navy's around the world.Upon entering though you realize you are not in Kansas any more!! The room is full, and I mean walls and ceilings are covered in nautical artifacts,uniforms,life preservers,signal flags,ship models,lamps,ships bells,boiler plates.It was amazing,stuff everywhere.I was told the crazy german has other restaurants and homes equally bursting at the seams with stuff.We sat at the bar for a couple of steins of beer and in comes the owner a gregarious man with a big smile and the most amazing german/spanish accent you can imagine.We were warmly greeted with jokes,questions about me and shots of something like Yeigermeister.I had a meal of Schnitzel and red cabbage and another stein of beer before we went out into the now hot sun and way too bright afternoon!!

The afternoon was spent on the hills walking through the streets looking at the views,buildings,small winding streets,street art and also the cemetaries.There were three cemetaries up on the hilltop.Cemetario number 1 and 2 and one for 'Dissidents'! The cemetaries are not as grand as the Recoleta cemetary in Buenos Aires but still some impressive mausoleums.The dissidents cemetary was the best.In Valpo if you were any other religion than Catholic off you went to the dissidents cemetary.The names of Scottsmen,Irishmen,British and many others marked the graves and an electric fence on top of the wall protected them from vandals and thieves who preyed on the graves for profit.

Walking around I saw some of the ascensors that no longer run.There were many more than what is running today,including one that runs up to Bellavista,the hillside where I live here,much to my chagrin in great disrepair.People are trying to raise money to get them up and running again if possible and the government is committing to some assistance by the end of this year so we shall see.Every neighbourhood has it history,some with ethnic background and all with a life of their own.Propane vendors drive through the streets beating sticks on the empty tanks in an unmistakable call to people to come on down if you need your tank replaced.garbage men actually collect the bags,ringing doorbells and collecting when nothing is at the curb.Small shops serve the hillsides and everyone walks up and down daily.

It was great to see the city and enjoy hearing Michaels tales of the history of this once great city. Oh yes and the fleet began to return!!

Adios!

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