WEEK 6 RESCUED AT LAST!

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WEEK 6 - RESCUED AT LAST

After 4 days marooned on the ailing Navimag ferry, ‘Magellane’, only 500k into our 1500k voyage, we were rescued. The journey from Punta Arenas to Peurto Montt through the fiords and channels along the west coast of Chile should have only taken 4 days. A false alarm initially as the Isadora cruise ship, which we had seen several times already, came into view. But shortly after wards at 10.30 am as promised the ‘Port Eden’, Navimag’s second ferry arrived and anchored close by.

Fortunately the weather was calm and sunny and for several hours the small fishing boats from the nearby small settlement of Port Eden ferried the 180 stranded passengers to the new vessel. Being a surrogate grannie to the family with a little girl with whom I had shared a cabin, I was honoured to travel with them in a special covered boat.

After the passengers the loose freight was ferried across and on return journeys food supplies for the crew who were to remain on the ‘Magellane’. Most of us were so pleased when a tug sent to escort the ailing ferry anchored along side and unloaded bales of hay for the poor cattle which had to remain on board. Also left behind were cars and motorcycles belonging to passengers.

We started our journey north in the late afternoon. The small ferry was full to capacity - but the crew managed admirably to continue to produce excellent meals and service. We had a party and the Japanese lady who I had met on a bus earlier gave salsa dancing lessons! In the evening as we left the shelter of the islands the ferry began to roll. I was a bit concerned about falling out of the top bunk but fortunately there seemed to be a natural hollow in the mattress.

The next day was idyllic. High pressure, clear blue sky, sunshine and calm weather. The landscape was perfect. Beautiful mountains with snow capped peaks, distant glaciers, endless horizons of paling shades of grey and stunning reflections in the calm waters. Occasional dolphins and sea lions swam along side the boat and albatrosses flew over head. In the evening the clear skies displayed the stars to perfection and we admired the Southern Cross. The full moon reflected romantically on the shimmering water. Hard to believe that there are still such large areas of wilderness and beauty.

The evening before we docked - a mandatory call from the captain- who apologised for the inconvenience- and said that all our money would be refunded! It was the first time in 80 years that the company had experienced such a problem and they were keen to retain their good name.

A fond farewell to fellow passengers who we had come to know quite well. I felt really honoured when I had a wonderful invitation to join my cabin family on their annual holiday in Vina de Mar, a beach resort in Chile north of Santiago for a few days at the end of January. Life is full of surprises!

Initially I could not get a bus ticket for 3 days from Puerto Montt to Bariloche in Argentina where I was catching up with my travelling companion Carole. Navimag, however made enquiries and obtained a ticket for the next day. They then kindly put me up in a 5 star hotel for the night! What a luxury. I caught up with all my washing and enjoyed the scrumptious breakfast.

The bus journey over the Andes from Puerto Montt in Chile to Bariloche back in Argentina was unforgettable. . The snow capped peaks and tors were crystal clear and the lakes bright blue. The thick shiny leaves of the southern beech tree (Northogfagus lenga), glistened in the sunshine and the blossoms and wild flowers were beautiful- particularly the lupins.

At last I caught up with Carole, 5 days late. I was grateful for one of 3 beds in her hotel room as accommodation was in short supply. This is the peak holiday season in Argentina when people swarm to Lake District National Parks. She talked until her throat tickled recounting her adventures as she had been in Spanish mode for over 2 weeks. Carole prefers to stay in hotels rather than hostels and leads a more solitary life than I do when travelling alone.

Bariloche, located on a beautiful lake is a resort town - a ski centre in the winter and summer holiday destination. Although pleasant - and not dusty- it is impersonal and lacks character. Lots of chocolate shops, ice cream parlours, outdoor clothing shops and designer fashions shops. We explored the town, celebrated her birthday belatedly and enjoyed numerous coffees and delicious vegetarian meals.

A goodbye to Carole as she left on a 17 hours bus journey north to Mendoza. She is now on her way to Buenos Aires for a week of tango lessons and dancing before she returns home. She will also welcome our friend Felicity who is about to start 3 months travelling in south America and will meet me in Bariloche in a couple of weeks,

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