Cochamó Valley

After parting ways with David, who headed north to hike Volcán Lanín, I ended up heading toward Cochamó Valley, which is fast becoming a mecca for climbers. The valley is known as the Yosemite of South America for it´s granite batholiths that rim it´s edges. Because it remains icefree for much of the year, it´s gaining popularily among international climbers, partially to the hard work of Daniel and Silvina, a Nevada-Argentine pair who own a refugio in the heart of the valley.

On the second day up there I day hiked up a recently constructed trail for better views. While lunching on a granite outcrop high above the valley I was treated to a pair of condors that for about 20 minutes soared just under me, giving me a great look at their enormous wingspans.

On the third day however, I decided to hike out, which involved walking for four hours in the rain. This is when I learned that my Goretex shoes were now waterproof, except at the seams. And my nylon pants, they didn´t even last an hour. Needless to say, I was drenched when I reached the bottom and then proceed to slip crossing a very small stream and fall flat out horizontal in two feet of water, pack and all. I soon found a small barn to rest in and the owner nursed back my spirits with warm beer and doughnuts.

Yes, I think after backpacking for the last month and half I´m finally ready for something else. Maybe it´s because I have this inate need to leave a little part of me where ever I go, be it my sweater in Buenos Aires, my watch at the Hielo Azul glacier, or my trekking poles in the back of Daniel´s pickup. What ever the next stage is, I hope it involves daily bathing. Yes, daily.

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