Can I have a house of wood thanks, hold the nails

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I sat on the wall and watched as the fisherman loaded their boats with nets. Behind me a local man chopped wood for the fire and a rooster crowed in the distance.

Across the bay, sheep and cows grazed on the green hills, occasionally looking up to the panoramic views of the neighbouring islands.

A mist had settled over the water and lent a mystical air to the surroundings. The cry of nearby gulls contributed to the nautical theme.

I watched as people called greetings to each other and a dodge truck spun its wheels in the gravel in an attempt to climb the hill. School kids looked at is with interest before continuing with their lively game of football.

Beside me, a stray dog and kitten were huddled close hoping for some affection. The smell was fresh and ocean like and a few drops of rain began to fall.

We were in Chiloe, a small archipelago off the west coast of Chile. It was April, the off season, so we were one of very few tourists which added to the charm.

Chiloe is renowned for its rain and many of the brightly coloured wooden houses and shops are on stilts to avoid being flooded by the tidal waters. The water levels in the bays change daily and boats lay stranded on the sand like beached whales waiting for the tide to come in.

Ferries between the islands transport cars, buses, animals, food and people. It is common for locals to cross several stretches of water on their way to work everyday.

Minibuses connect the tiny villages and people transport their much needed goods including fish, wheelbarrows, animal feed and farm equipment on the tiny buses.

A deeply religious and spiritual place, the pictures of Jesus and shrines to the holy son did not alay my fears of their driving and the plethera of car deodourises hanging from the roof did nothing to abate the smell of rotting fish or dead animals that occassionally permeated the bus.

The way of life seems relaxed and unhurried. Often the bus would pick up and drop people off fom the gate of their property or stop at a small shop so a passenger could buy a pack of cigarettes or the bus driver could get himself some chocolate.

The people of Chiloe are descendants of the Chonos and Mapuche indigenous populations and the islands have maintained many traditional ways of living. The main industry is fishing and agriculture and are famous for their handicrafts and export of seaweed to Japan.

Almost every building is made from wood, some even without metal, and many with the wood arranged in elaborate patterns.

I watched as a little old lady in a grey skirt and coat and heavy stockings pinched the cheek of a young boy before handing him some sweets.

It is a magical and unique place and one which affords you a tiny glimpse into a seemingly wonderful way of life.

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