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Published: August 29th 2012
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So, as it was kinda on the way anyway, (they take you to the border on the last day of the Salar de Uyuni tour) we thought we´d nip into Chile, see whats happening. Atacama is apparently the driest desert in the world. I don´t know much about deserts, but I do know they´re dry, so the driest sounds like the thing to do, especially as i haven´t been to one before (note - i have. In Australia. I just didn´t realise untill I thought about it later... just thought I´d add this info now as I am unlikely to release a dvd version of this with commentary).
So after almost missing our transport from the border (standard), we were whicked off to Chilean immigration, which took absolutely bloody ages. This gave us plenty of time to indulge in paranoid fantatsies about what we were and weren´t allowed to bring into the country. The coca leaves had already gone, sensible enough, but not everything was so clear cut. We ended up picking all the raisins out of Sofia´s nut and raisin mix. Though it was disappointing later when it became apparent that officials at random border crossings between Bolivia and
Chile are not as vigilant as Australian customs, and didn´t even look in our bags, but on the plus side, I did get some raisins. Score.
After a harsh morning freezing in various places, in various different ways (the morning strip of the springs, the very early morning geyser-ing, and a horrificaly windy high altitude plateau), we wanted to enjoy being back in the sunshine at low altitude. A nice relaxing dip in a salt lake sounded perfect. So off we popped... i have to say it was beautiful. Frankly having seen so many beautiful things over those 3 days at the Salar it was hard to believe we were at another stunning landscape, but there you go - stunning landscape view are obviously ten a penny up there. Everyone around us looked a bit nervous about getting in the salt lake, we were suspicious.. sch a lovely hot day who wouldn´t want a dip.... a dip in liquid ICE. Oh my God I have never felt such cold water I swear. It hurt. Even just dipping a toe in! No fear we did it. We got in. I won´t lie it took us a bloody long time to
get it done, but we did it. And after a few attempts, I actually quite enjoyed it! Sofia unfortunately, being... how shall I put it, less covered in blubber than me, was so cold I think she feared she would die. Like i said, it really did hurt. In different ways too - a kind of bone freezing pain, as well as a rash type pain fro the salt. Good freaking times! But no, it was fun! My main regret was forgetting to bring a book or paper for the pose that Stephanie Clarke had advised... I improvised as best I could.
Ok, i gotta go... will finish another day xx
JUst to finish this off, so I don{t forget if nothing else... the next day we did the valle de la luna tour, standard. It was quite nice, but given all we{d seen the previous few days it was a little underwhelming. I was getting over dry dusty terrain to be honest (yeh i know, being in a desert not really the best idea then).... That night however, we went on the astromony trip. Which was brilliant! So Atacama desert is one of the top places in
the world for stargazing - NASA has their bits out there. Fancy eh? The tour guy talked us through the various constellations, asked where they were (i couldn{t even find the Southern Cross! I fear they may retract my citizenship), and then we cracked on with the big telescopes. Saw so many things... most vividly I remember the dying star, the red and blue stars next to each other (with red meaning cold and hot meaning blue - stupid taps lying to me all these years) and of course, Saturn. And its rings. Now that was impressive! A close second for best bit of the night was when we went inside and they gave us some hot chocolate. Dear GOD its cold out in the desert at night! Literally had all my clothes on, and a blanket, and still wanted to cry a bit. Well worth it though.
The next day Sofia left me (sob), i opted to chill-ax in the desert for another day as I had a few days till Sara{s arrival in Buenos Aires. As i recall, I pussied out of sandboarding (i didn{t wat to get out more Chilean pesos OK?!) and went for a strol in the desert instead. As you do. It was pleasant enough, learnt a new technique for ditching overly-friendly stray dogs (stop and have sit a down near someone else, and if they leave before you, the dog will follow them instead. Genius), but as I say, was a bit over the dustiness... plus, sans-hat, the desert is not your friend.
Stop off in Chile over, next stop, Argentina!
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Steph
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Loving the mention!
I can't believe you forgot a book or newspaper for the classic photo! I also can't believe you got a photo with just you and no one else in it. It was packed when we went. Glad you are enjoying the trip although sounds very cold!