Atacama – here life is a journey through desert

---

It was cold at night. The typical desert weather – almost zero humidity, the days are hot, nights are cold; especially in the winter times. I made a mental note of turning on the propane tank heater at night when I would be back after the day trip.

Yes, it would be a busy day; I knew that. During my planning stage, Daniela, the Manager from Ckoi Lodge made it a point we visit Piedras Rojas salt plain. It is located high above the sea level, over 4500m. Daniela chalked out the plan - on our way, we should visit the Laguna Miscanti and Minisque in the altiplano (high plain region of Andean region) of Atacama Desert. On our way back, we must stop in Laguna Chaxy. So, it was an all day busy, busy schedule for us.

Usually, all typical tours start from San Pedro very early in the morning. When Ryan and I came to the main porch of Ckoi lodge waiting for the tour pick up, the sky was still dark and we could hear the roosters crowing thus welcoming the new dawn – “Cuck-kuroo-kku”. Somewhere at a distance, sudden barks from street dogs broke the tranquility of the peaceful morning. We were fortunate to grab a cup of coffee each from the lodge, as that is the only thing one can get here in early morning. While waiting outside in the cold for the tour bus, the taste of hot coffee felt heavenly. Soon we heard the rumbling of the bus engine outside the compound. “Are you Tab”? - The tour guide asked us as the bus came to a halt where we were standing. I believe we were the last pick up. Once settled inside, the bus headed for Route 23 leaving the suburb of San Pedro. The dawn was slowly breaking up in the eastern sky.

Once we crossed Toconao, our first stop along Route 23 was a small Andean village near Socaire. It was the stop for a good breakfast organized by the tour company. Mostly cold sandwich and boiled eggs with salad and fruit accompanied by hot coffee from the flask was served. Splendid! Indeed, we were hungry and the food was timely. As a matter of fact, I was also curious to see the lifestyle of indigenous people there in the village. It is amazing, how people survive with bare minimum necessities in the middle of nowhere in a dusty desert town. Hardly, there was anything beyond the village. There is no civilization within miles. But people live in there! I suppose only we, the human can adjust to any conditions. That is where we differ from the animals.

It was not mid day yet when we arrived to Laguna Miscanti and Minisque. The lakes are in the altiplano of Antofagasta region of northern Chile. What a beauty! The lakes are sitting over 4000m above the sea level. The air was thin, but crisp. Miscanty is a saline water lake. This is a lake where fresh water from natural environment has mixed with salt under the ground to form saline water. The only species that I found venturing in the water are the flamingos. The 13.5 square kilometre lake is surrounded by towering volcanoes. The sky was deep blue and the reflection of the volcanoes on the lake with no wind over the lake formed a picture of perfect serenity. The mid day sun was blazing overhead, and there was not a bit of sound anywhere except the sound from our own voice. It really feels eerie! The surrounding of the lakes were marked with stones so as no one crosses the boundary to get too close. That is perfect! One needs to honour the plants and other habitats near the lake. We spend there about an hour or so before heading out further south to Piedros Rojas. It was past noon.

****



My first impression of the fascinating and spectacular salt plain of Piedras Rojas reminded me of the planet Mars. Literally, Piedras Rojas translates to Red Stone; the name really matches the surrounding landscape. Not far from Argentina border, the bus took a short turn from Route 23 and soon we arrived at the entrance of Salar de Aguas Calientes – the gateway of Piedras Rojas. It is around 4500m above the sea level, and it was windy like hell! The walking trail takes one towards the aquamarine lake near the salt plain along a red stone pathway which was scattered with white salt here and there. The pathway is not steep in most of the places, but walking along the trail for 40 minutes against a terrible wind and low oxygen level at high altitude will definitely make one tired and breathless. But when we reached near the lake, I felt the hike was worth it. As far as we could see, there is nothing but barren red stones tainted with salt deposits. The red colour of the stones was formed by oxidation of iron. It was a blue sky with no trace of cloud. The blazing afternoon sun was no comfort against the terrible cold wind. Wearing warm jackets with our heads covered with toque, we ventured around near the lagoon. While walking back near the main entrance, I saw some sentry posts where officers check the entrance tickets for the visitors. What a job in this barren no-man’s land! Not sure if I could last there for more than a couple of days.

The day ended with a visit to another lagoon in Altacama Salt Flat where different types of birds and flamingos were natural habitat. It was dark when we finally arrived to San Pedro. I was not hungry, but Ryan ventured out to the City Centre to grab a quick dinner. It was already getting cold and I turned on the propane heater to warm up the room. It was a long day and I was tired. Not only that, the next day trip was scheduled to arrive for pick up at 4 am and I needed to catch some good sleep before that.

****

Geyser El Tatio was our last trip in Atacama. Ryan was specifically interested to see the geysers and I also added that in my bucket list. El Tatio is a geothermal field with many geysers located high above in the Andean Mountain at about 4,320 meters above the sea level. It is the third largest geyser field in the world and it is the largest in the south of the equator in the entire southern hemisphere. So, Ryan was right and it was worth visiting. It is about 80 km west of San Pedro along B-245 near the border of Bolivia. So, it was not too far. It is a fact geysers are always beautiful to watch just before sunrise; superheated steam coming from the geysers in the contrast of half darkness of the eastern sky gives a spectacular view of the geysers. That’s why the early morning trips are made by the tour companies to see geysers.

As usual, we waited in front of our lodge and the rumble of the engine was heard just after 4 am. Unlike the last time, the bus needed to pick up some more tourists from different locations. Once completed, the packed bus headed towards El Tatio in the darkness along the highway B-245. The daylight was breaking out in the eastern sky when our bus moved close to the Geysers. We got out of the bus with my camera ready. The Early morning cold at that altitude gripped us instantly. Once the body got used to the temperature difference, I looked around. What a beauty! The volcanoes and the mountains stood silhouetted against a pink tinted blue sky. The superheated steam, condensed by the atmospheric cold was slowly rising up in the sky. The contrast of the pink sky and the silhouetted mountains against the dense steam created a spectacular view that is unparalleled. We followed the guide within defined pathway, often superheated water boiling on both sides. Accidents do occur if one is not careful or intentionally one goes closer to the superheated water. No, we didn’t have slightest intention of any wrongdoing. We walked around and once I was satisfied with my clicks, it was time to board the bus again. The sun was up and the warmth inside the bus brought back the life to me. As the bus was rolling next to a marshland, we could see some guanaco giving us curious look from a distance. The bus took us to a protected area and sandwiches were served with hot coffee. It was part of the tour management like the day before. Some wild fox was giving some greedy look as we were having the sandwiches. Nearby, there was a small village shopping complex for the tourists. After the breakfast most of the folks went for souvenir shopping and visiting other eateries. Ryan and I took a walk down to a desolate but an active church close by. I am not a religious person per se, but atmosphere inside religious shrines always attracts me, I feel so peaceful!

***

It was end of our tour in Atacama. Transfer Mapu arrived a bit late to pick us up from Ckoi Lodge to the airport. But we had plenty of time and we were not worried. We checked out from Ckoi Lodge and I said goodbye to Daniella. She has been a helpful lady all along from my early days of planning – a polite, always smiling and friendly personality. I was comfortable dealing with her from day one. Soon after we checked out, her finished her morning shift and was leaving. I could see her heading home riding a bicycle. She waved at me. I waved back, but I felt sad. She has been my close tie to Atacama all along.

Ckoi Lodge was quiet under a hazy afternoon sun. Some birds were chirping from a nearby tree. I sighed! I was feeling nostalgic. I don’t know when I will be back again in this part of the world; maybe someday, maybe not. But I felt a close bond here, the same I felt for Punta Arenas, but for totally two different reasons. I loved here the dusty roads, unkempt surroundings; I liked the simple, rural city center lacking the usual pomp and glories; I liked the empty fields with grown up weeds and shrubs; I liked the village dogs resting in shade at noon. Sometimes I feel that I am tired of seeing the manicured lifestyle of the Western World, decorated shops and eateries to attract people. But the world here at San Pedro is not pretentious – it does not have the makeup, it is mostly bare bone, but the people here are down to earth. Here, the values are not measured by beautification but closeness of heart.

The bus was heading towards the Calama airport. Slowly dusk was falling around us. The windmills near the horizon stood silent against a crimson sky before sundown. Sand dunes and surrounding mountains were quietly waiting for the dusk to blanket them at the end of the day. It was a picture perfect portrait of serene and peaceful Atacama that I was leaving. I wish I could spend a few more days here. But I knew it’s time. And ‘time and tide wait for none’. I sighed and accepted the reality that I am flying back to Santiago that evening. But I will be back! Someday! Au Revoir Atacama!

---

Comments

[Nitin]

Atacama
Amazing Journey

[gangopa]

Atacama
It has been indeed...thanks Nitin!