Unexpected Paradise

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(April 06)

I guess the definition of paradise is a rather subjective thing. To me paradise could be a million different things but that place that I had the pleasure to discover down in the very last corner of Cajon del Maipo, a Canyon close to Santiago, definately belongs to that bunch. And knowing that I only detected it by pure chance (or some heavenly guidance:-)) makes it even more special. (Couldn't believe that hardly anyone in Santiago seems to know it - Anthony, bl....GO THERE SOON before someone sends you back to OZ:-)!!!).

I had 4 days to go before meeting Pierre in Santiago and I really didn't feel too much like hanging out in the city for the whole time, so I packed up my gear once again the very next morning after my arrival in Santiago, somehow found that bus to Cajon del Maipo (not easy on a Sunday!!!) and off I went. I had a 2-day track on my list that I figured to be the last adventure of that kind this autum since the weather was slowly deteriorating plus Pierre was going to take all my gear (tent, matt, sleeping bag, stove etc.) back with him to Canada so I could travel a bit lighter for a while.

After a quick briefing by Antonio, the hut warden at the trailhead, I pushed on to climb up the barren valley with El Morado looming just over 5000 m high into the spottless blue sky. The thing that totally fascinated me were the colours of this incredibly bleak landscape. Even though there was not one tree to be seen I had to stop every few meters to take in the amazing scenery. The climb was easy and relaxing, by the time I reached the laguna just below El Morado it was hot enough to jump right in. Unfortunately the so called Laguna rather resembled a puddle, so I postponed the cleaning ritual to another day (as usual). Nevertheless I had a great time hanging out up there and when all the daytrippers ("all" means about 10 people) slowly thinned out in order to reach the car park again before dark, I enjoyed my solitude hugely (one night in a city like Santiago is enough!). Once again I was the only tent (well actually there was another one about half a kilometer upvalley from me). It got bl....cold when the sun dissapeared and yet I kept sitting in front of my tent staring at the night sky as if I'd been hypnotysed. Amazing! So clear! Have never seen that many stars (seems even Australia doesn't offer that sort of night sky...).

The next day I returned to the trailhead and made it back even before noon. Since I still had 2 days to go I enquired with Antonio about other fun things to do. 'If I like walking' he asked me. 'Yes'. 'If I mind smelly truckdrivers?' 'Yes.' 'Que lastima (Oh shame)' he said, otherwise he'd really recommend to check out "Baños Colina" about 17 km's up the road, the best hot springs greater Santiago area has to offer. 'Sure' I said, 'I'm always up for fun stuff'. Well, I would need to get a lift with one of the trucks for about 10 km's upvalley from here and then walk south for another 7 km's. It wouldn't be a problem and the truck driver's up here that serve the mine would always be thrilled to take a blond European lass. 'Sure' I thought, '100% positive! How about save though??'. But no, Antonio affirmed that it'd be fine (or was it my spanish and I only understood half of what he said???). So, excited by the thought that I would bask in a hot pool with a million dollar view and probably without the tourist tam tam in a few hours I happily skipped off, almost swirling my backpack through the air. Luckily I had taken food for 3 days and Antonio had given me another few bananas and apples. Hu, all these beautiful people!!


So I stopped the first car that passed me and indeed got a lift straight away, luckily with one of the mine supervisors (as opposed to stinky truck drivers). Once arrived at the turn off he indicated the track I had to follow and off I went. I felt like the first person ever to stump along this dirt road (even though there WAS a dirt road). The landscape looked like what I imagine Tibet to be like. Nothing there but bare rock and dirt!

I must have been walking for a little over an hour when a car passed by (THAT was kind of strange, to see a car in this totally deserted setting). I loved this little hike too much though, so I indicated them to move on without me. Another half hour later I reached the end of the dirt track. At first I really couldn't work out where Baños Colina were supposed to be. I guess I expected a kind of town like Baños Morales, but there was nothing! Nada!! Nada en absoluto!

Then I looked up to the west - and ....

....THERE it was! Perched High up over the valley there were several turqois pools and a small building. Aaaah! Alright, tired I was but somehow I squeezed a last bit of energy out of my body and almost RAN up the stairs. I couldn't pitch my tent quick enough, all I wanted was to jump into one of those inviting beautiful looking pools QUICK. However, I didn't get very far: A middle aged couple from Santiago stopped me (like the only guys apart from me up there) and insisted that I have a glas of wine with them (they were just having a picknick on the car park). 'Well, can't say no to THAT, can I! But lets be quick.' I thought. However, I did get stuck for an hour or so and we had a fantastic time. Even though the two of them didn't speak any english we managed to have a somewhat decent conversation. But then I couldn't wait any longer. Once emerged in one of the pools I didn't move for hours. I couldn't believe my luck! The view over the valley was just incredible, the peace up there unspeakable. And there were only Anna, Jorge and myself. And a short while later there was only ME! Yessss!!! Tina-time!

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