On the road to Diamintina

---

I left BH after a wild night out, culminating in me wandering through the worst neighborhood of downtown Belo at midnight - at one point a man wandered past me, clutching at a towel wrapped around his arm, soaked in blood from a recently inflicted wound. On the bright side, this has imbued me with a heightened confidence that some may call naiveity. Thursday was Brazilian Independence day, so for the holidays, some of my friends had planned to visit a fazenda belonging to a friends family.

Only 100km North of Belo, the countryside took a drastic change. The lush rolling hills of Southern Minas and the thick jungle-like Mata Atlantica all but dissapeared. In it's place, the a yellow-green sea of dry grass, full of tall lumps of termite mounds and scattered with the short twisting trees that define the cerrado, an ecosystem that stretches from the base of the mountains in Minas, all the way to the Pantanal on the border with Bolivia. The countryside is flat here, save the alien groves of Eucalyptus. To the North East, a small blue elevation in the distance is a Mountain range, where I would subsequently be crossing.

We spent the time at the farm doing what Brazilians do best - eating, drinking, and talking. The farm is about 500 acres, but primarily functions in growing cane and the production of cachaça. The process involves an extraction of sugar cane juice, fermentation, distillation, and aging in barrels. Everything including the bottling and labeling is done there, and the resulting cachaça is one of the better ones in the state. And said weekend, it was naturally easier to find then water. There were rougly 20 people spending the weekend there - most were surprised at my intention to travel through Jequitinhonha, but thought it very worthwile and different opportunity to see a different part of Brazil (one man called me courageous, which on later reflection, may have not been a complement). During my stay here, we visited the local bar (emphasis on local), where a cow was being butchered - at the bar (the bar was actually on a farm, and is a meeting place for the farmworkers). We also visited the nearby town of Curvelo, the geographical center of Minas. The town is considered "bem-interior" (very country), sleepy and full of men in straw hats, what I´m guessing is only a taste of what is to come.

In due process, Zé Antonio, the owner of the fazenda, called ahead to Diamintina, my next destination, to a friend who owned a hotel. So with a name, I said goodbye to my friends, and hopped on a bus headed towards the mountains. The bus ride, about three hours, quickly left the plains below and entered a region of twisting mountain roads and giant rocking outcrops. Shortly, the trees had vanished.

Diamintina - the roads are narrow and paved with huge slabs of black rock. The city was built some 400 years ago, so is rightly filled with the ornate colonial houses and baroque churches - all the best that diamond mining with slave labor could afford. The center part of the town is touristy. Although not a prime destination for foreigners, it recieves many Brazilians. In the opposite hill sits some of the periphery, and you can see the difference the tourism, which didn't begin until the 1990's created. The neighborhood resembles a favela infused with money. Interestingly, due to the geography of the region, houses are built around giant slabs of rock giving the resembalance of meteorites dropped from the sky. The neighborhood was residential, and I was met with many an indifferent stare, but as always when greeted with a "hello," a smile returned.

After arrival, I contacted Leonardo, owner of the pousada, who in his free time as professor at the univerisity, has a historical hotel and collects artesenal crafts from Vale do Jequitinhonha. As with many of the people here, his family has many generations here in the city - the hotel was once his wifes family home, and is full of personal family antiques. The place is immaculate, and far beyond what I would have needed, but he gave me a massive discount. He also aided in planning a route through Jequitinhonha, as he travels there frequently to work and buy from the artists.

The time I arrived was also the commeration of the birthday of JK, former president of Brazil who was born here in Diamintina. For this commeration, the previous night had a presentation (of which usually occurs twice a month here) with a plaza being filled with tables and musicians taking their places in the verandas of the houses bordering. The conductor directed from a central position for two hours, as the band played various selections, included some national songs for the occassion.

Now - I'm headed somewhere north, eventually to Turmilina. But as I´m interested in some of the smaller towns, I've just picked a point on the map that I really know nothing about. However, after speaking to some of the locals here, I'm reassured of the kindness and hospitality of the locals (and have been personally reassured that travel in this region is without the danger of the city (that's for you mom)). Until next time...

(photos here)

---

Comments

[Josh]

Sweet photos!

[From Your Mom]

Thank for thinking of me! :)
Chris, that was so kind of you to remember to fit personal safety into your blog this time. You know how I appreciate that! Keep loving your travels and making connections with those warm hearted Brazilians. I'll be waiting for your next installment....love, Mom