Cafayate

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Colorful Calchaquies Valleys--Cafayate and Cachi
There's magic in them thar hills. While many zoom from big cities Tucuman to Salta, there's a wealth of relaxing, exciting, wining adventure to be had in the small towns of the Calchaquies Valleys off the gringo trail. (see also my blog on Tafi and Amaicha) The valleys' mountains are rugged and straiated with colored minerals, the towns are full of striking adobe architecture, and great wines and artisanal goods.
The was the beginning of the spectacular red-rock country I'd find in the north and in southern Bolivia. Actually, the sandstone rocks are composed of seven different minerals--red iron, green copper, blue cobalt, yellow sulfer, white gypson and violet and brown somethings. Due to tectonic forces and wind and water erosion, the rock was tortured, bent, hollowed and rounded into wonderful shapes. These gorgeous, desolate colored deserts begin here in the Quebrada (gorge or canyon) de Cafayate and continue up through much of northern Argentina and Bolivia.
are produced by the descendents of one of my favorite indigenous groups, the Diaguita or Calchaqui as they are often called here in Argentina. It was here that I entered the world of the indigenous people in which I would be living for the next years. It was here that I first saw men with a fat chunk of coca leaves in their mouths and stores selling, coca and bica, that is, coca leaves and the bicarbonate of soda that releases the milding stimulant effect. However, it was pretty ugly seeing someone with a big plug in their cheek and it was also difficult to understand them when they talked. think I'll pass on this one.
From Tucuman, I traveled up through lush jungle-covered mountains, then down to the s emi-desert of Cafayate, southern terminus for the Valles Calchaquies. With 10,000 people, it's the largest town by far, but surrounded by its mountains and with dirt roads out of the center, it had a wonderful small-town feel.
my home for a couple of weeks. I stayed at a sweet/funky hostel on a dirt/stony road a bit out of the town and ended up being the receptionist in return for a free bed. Lots of great European travelers passed through there, and I found myself speaking English for the first time in ages.
Lots of people come to Cafayate for wine-tasting in the nearby bodegas. With friends from the hostel, I visited a couple of wineries in beautiful grounds surrrounded by vineyards and backed by the mountains that surround Cafayate. It was also great tasting delicious wines that I only buy as gifts when visiting or staying with others.
Fun walking country roads out to visit wineries. Reminded me of home with vineyards backed by mountains. There was a private Archaeology Museum with simple ceramics of the early Aguada culture that I'd seen in Cordoba and the fabulous, intricate Diaguita ceramics that I'd seen in Chile. While I visited several times, the museum was never open despite the dogs barking inside. humph...
A hot, dusty 6km dirt road led out past vineyards and funky neighborhoods to the canyon of the Rio Colorado where supposedly another hour and a half hike took you to a waterfall. However, despite lots of experiments and backtracking, I never found the waterfall. It's annoying here in South America where trails are never marked because they want you to hire a guide. No way I was going to do that just to see a waterfall in its pre-rainy season dribble. On the other hand, there were lots of great spots to dunk in the cool and refreshing river, and I was lucky to hitch a ride back to town. A fine day!
The highlight of my stay in Cafayate was a tour to the Quebrada de Cafayate/de Rio de las Conchas. tour so worth it because guide knew geology, history, etc. I served as translator to French. Garganta del diablo, the frog, the Obelisc, the Castles, the Ampitheater
Then off to big city Salta, passing by the Quebrada de Cafayate again.

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