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Published: November 27th 2010
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We had set off from Buenos Aires feeling excited at the prospect of seeing a different side to Argentina, out of the city and into smaller towns and villages. We were also stoked to be meeting up with our two good friends Kyle and Tahlei, with whom we had been accostomed to travelling with on and off over the past two years through various parts of Europe. They were professional travellers and put us to shame. We research little to nothing at the best of times. These guys, could write a book on their adventures and it would outsell Lonely Planet by a mile - I´d buy it anyways.
We boarded our delux suite bus bound for Cordoba late in the evening, we were still wincing at the price, a stiff 245 pesos each (about 70 US each) we had come to South America hoping we would be able to survive on very little, Argentina basically blew that idea out of the water. Its not cheap and its not expensive, its average at best. I wasnt expecting much for my 70 dollars as I had been mostly used to the rubbish buses in the UK or Greyhound buses in the
US. My opinions were quickly shifted when I sat down and reclined almost to a 180 degree angle, it was the closest I was ever getting to a bed for the next 12 to 14 hours. I was further impressed when a waiter kitted out in apron offered us a platter of food each, we declined thinking we would have to pay, I prodded Blake to ask about cost, the waiter smiled and said it was free. We felt very stupid and very tight. We dined on hot Shephards pie sandwhiches and all the soft drink you could want. I´m going to generalise here and say that South Americans have a definite problem with soft drink, especially in Argentina - the stuff was cheaper than water and beer. I also discovered Dulce de Leche whilst in Argentina, a caramel sauce - a type of spread for any kind of breads, sweet pastrys or to simply eat from a jar. We also discovered biscuits with the same substance smacked in the middle - we quickly became sick of these as every bus ride in Argentina seemingly shoves these down your throat as a breakfast lunch or dinner special. These are biscuits
people, not meals!
We arrived in Cordoba surprisingly refreshed and hung around waiting for the others to arrive. One and half hours past and still no sight of Kyle and Tahlei, panic set in. We began to wonder if we were in the right bus station, the right town even. We started to think of ways that we might be able to get in contact with them, smoke signals was probably going to be best since none of us had phones or internet access at that very minute. Just as we were about to give up, we gained sight of them. Tired and over their bus ride, Kyle and Tahlei seemed glad to have arrived and we were happy that we were all finally in one piece and in the right place together. Our bus was typically an hour early and theirs an hour late - we were on South American time now.
We set off for a hostal in the centre of Cordoba, by cab the girls in one and the boys in the other. Kyle had brought Blake some coca lollies, which contrary to popular belief have nothing to do with the drug. These lollies are
a by product of the coca leaf which almost every peruvian and Bolivian eats, the leaves are cheaper and therefore more common. These are used in tea or simply chewed. Coca is very common but this was the first we had come across. It is like a stimulate that gives you energy and suppresses apitites somewhat. Most of our Bolivan bus drivers further along on the trip were regular chewers. They taste funny and arent really my cup of tea but are great for altitude sickness, which came in handy in Bolivia and Peru - the leaves in hot water are tasty though. We finally found a comfortable place to crash for the few nights we were in Cordoba, we decided on a four bed dorm as this would be cheapest for all of us. We were checked into Hostelling International Cordoba, it was comfortable and central which was all we needed. As Argentinas second largest city, I expected a mecca just short of Buenos Aires from Cordoba. It was smaller than first thought but I liked it. Kyle introduced Blake and I to Grido Helados (icecream) it was pretty decent I have to admit, Dulce de leche and vanilla
were the hits for me.
On our second day in Cordoba we decided to take an hour long bus journey to Alta Gracia, famous for being the childhood hometown of Ernesto “Che” Guevara. We were to visit his childhood home too, now a museum and obvious national treasure, it wasnt the Disneyland of tourists that I had first expected. It was a nice house in a nice neighbourhood, big for its time. Turns out Che was actually from a wealthy family, allowing him to build on his education and eventually become a doctor as a young man. Being a doctor and traveling around South America as a young man led him to discover the incredible poverty across the continent and enormous divideneds between rich and poor - being exposed to all this, led to the development of certain ideas and momentum towards change in South America. This was the beginning of the revolutionary ideas and the making of the rebellious icon that we are all familair with today. It was super interesting to go to Che´s chldhood home and witness images from different periods in his life and it was cheap to get in too. I highly recommend a
visit to understand more abuot the man and his causes.
We had hit the park before the museum, which was one of the more stranger parks I think I have ever been to. It was lush, reminding me of an Australian park, except with streams and scabby looking dogs looming - one of which we nicknamed ´The Baron´. A skanky looking mixed breed that followed us until we eventually lost him. Dogs follow you in South America if you give them even the slightest bit of attention. This became a problem for me at public bus stations as I tend to be suckered in by cute homeless dogs.
We ended the day with a fantastic lunch consisting of meat, meat and more meat. We were in Argentina, famous for it´s BBQ´s so couldnt welll leave without trying some steaks. Blake lucked out with his choice of ribs, Kyle also chose poorly with a ´parrillada completa´ basically offle BBQ´d. Tahlei and I on the other hand chose the best, sirloins all round, one of the best steaks I have ever eaten, no word of a lie!
We were a lot more impressed with Cordoba than Buenos Aires. Being
a smaller city we were happy to be out of the bustle and happy to have company other than each other, I think Kyle and Tahlei felt the same. Being the lazy travellers that we were, Blake and I were excited to see where Kyle and Tahlei were taking us next. Turns out it was right up our ally.... Mendoza the wine capital of Argentina!
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