To the End of the Earth!

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After our treks in Chilean and Argentinian Patagonia, we spent a week in and around Tierra del Fuego - the land of fire, so named because of the smoke that Magellan witnessed from the communities of the indigenous Yamana tribes that lived along the coast (so it was first known as tierra del humo - the land of smoke).

Tierra del Fuego, as our friend Arne reported in his epic motorcycle diary, is actually the tail of the largest mountain chain in the world, the Andes. Down here they rise directly out of the sea in giant fjords and lakes, which we had the pleasure (or pain) to fly over on a short hop from Punta Arenas, Chile. The journey is either a 25-minute harrowing plane ride that falls straight down over the peaks - or a 13 hour bus.

Ushuaia sits at a latitude similar to Ketchikan Alaska, stuck between the Andes and the shallow Beagle Channel (named after Darwin's ship) connecting the world's two oceans. We were there on December 21st, the longest day of the year. King crab still dominated the menus, but as the port is home to cruise ships aplenty, and the nearest port to Antartica, the tourist scene is a bit overwhelming. Traveler's tip - cruises to Antartica were more than 50%!o(MISSING)ff for open berths.

Kati and I skipped town and headed to camp in Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego - home to the southernmost colony of parakeets, tall peaks, wet valleys, rabbits, foxes, and beaver. The beaver was introduced to provide fodder for beaver hunters. The beavers have, predictably, run wild - their many dams have flooded a large portion of the valley floors and riparian tree stands. At the beginning of summer, we camped in 30 degree weather, with a snow line just above our campground. We also experienced our first robbery! Not so bad, but thieves made off with our bag of groceries we had left in the communal kitchen of the local refugio. We were pleasantly surprised by the kindness of strangers - fellow mochileros gave us their extra rations, and the neighbor tourist cafe allowed us free coffee and toast in the morning. The Park represents the end of the earth! OK, the southernmost city is actually Puerto Williams, Chile across the channel. the end of the hemisphere is several islands to the south. The park is really only the end of paved Argentinian Ruta 3. But the end of the earth is much catchier.

Back in Ushuaia, we took a side trip to visit a historic estancia - the first in Patagonia, settled by the man who created a Yamana - English dictionary. This is significant, given that in Argentina and Chile combined, only one of many indigenous populations survive with any significant number - the Mapuche, who fought back the Spaniards long after the mighty Inca had fallen. Interestingly, the Yamana had no name for themselves. Yamana meant man or to be alive. They only had names for other tribes, some of which now form those tribes' names. Much like the name Anasazi in the SW USA, the names are not what the people would actually call themselves.

We spent Christmas week first with Neal and Laura, who we reconnoitered with in Ushuaia, and before heading to Punta Arenas, Chile - the largest city in Patagonia. We had king crab for Christmas eve dinner at the one restaurant that was open in the city. We stayed in a small family run hostel on Christmas, in which we were the only guests- so we were treated to a Chilean Christmas, which started at midnight on Christmas eve!

After a snafu or, ahem, missed flight, we arrived back in the roaring 40's to Puerto Montt, Chile (for more seafood) and crossed back into Argentina to meet up with my cousin Adam and his best bud Jay to close out 2008! More on that next chapter. Feliz ano nuevo a todos, y que se divierten y tengan siempre salud, por nuestros amigos y familia y mascotas que extanamos mucho. We miss you all.

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Photos

Ushuaia
A very scenic port

Up to Cerro Guanaco
In Tierra del Fuego park. That's fresh snow.

Hiking
We are poised to tackle the Cerro Guanaco.

Parokeets
They make it all the way down here!

Castor
How could this cute beaver really do so much harm?

Bahia
The view of the bay at Tierra del Fuego National Park

Ushuaia
From the Glaciar Martial ski area above town

The crew
Laura, Neal, Kati and Mark at Glacier Martial overlooking Ushuaia

Chilean electricity
Watch out!

fresh fish
in Puerto Montt. One whole smoked salmon= $2.20