End of the Road

Yes! We made it! Before crossing the finish line let me bring you up to date with the final stages of our journey. After a boring drive across the Argentnian pampas we entered El Calafate surrounded by stunning scenery and after 200k of ripio (gravel/muddy track) and four firmly pumped up tyres we celebrated with a hot chocolate in a very expensive coffee shop. As the sun was shining we decided to camp but forgot that it didn't shine at night and it got a little chilly. We were met by Jack Frost and all his mates the next morning which prompted a swift exit and checked into the nearest youth hostal or fossil hostal in our case. Our roomate just happened to have a bad back so I volunteered Nik's services (he needed the practice). He made jewellry in his spare time and as Nik didn't suit a pair of dangly earrings and necklace, I was the one who came better off and accepted a set in payment. The main attraction at El Calafate is the Perito Marino Glacier. We booked up for a glacier walking trip. First view of the glacier was breathtaking, a 60m wall of ice creeping forward into the lake with chunks falling off and sailing away. We took a boat across it's south face dodging icebergs along the way and was then kitted out with crampons (spikes fitted to the bottom of boots) when we were instructed to walk like a penguin going up hill and feet pointing forward going down. After we waddled across the ice we were rewarded with a glass of famous grouse topped up with glacier ice which was compulsory so I managed to force down two. After all the Òoohs´and Àhhhs'we were back on the road battling against the famous Patagonian wind. Back over the border and our last time in Chile to Puerto Natales. A little more run down than El Calafate but more expensive. A stopping off point for Torres Del Paine National Park which even though it was further south felt much warmer and we pitched our tent for the last time. As usual we had no other neighbours in our campsite. It was at this point Tommy decided not to start, not even a murmer from the engine. Nik read the owners manual from cover to cover, discovered that motor vehicles had a fuse box and checked each one to see if it had blown. Then we lifted up the bonnet, rubbed our chins and twiddled a few leads to no avail. Last resort we called out a nearby mechanic, who we thought we'd have to hand all our wordly goods over to for his expert advice. After 30 seconds of diagnosis he lifted up the bonnet, twisted the battery lead and 'hey presto'we were running again. What a pair of 'knobs' we felt. The bumpy road had vibrated the lead loose, the good thing was he didn't charge us. We did lots of hiking around the park our jaws dropping at all the views and autumn colours which seemed to change at different times of the day. The park is famous for huge granite towers that stand to attention over the surrounding landscape. After a 3 hour hike we scrambled up a boulder field to get the best view which we did once the cloud passed on through. Then it was a slow descent back home to our little green tent who also senses that our trip is coming to an end as its zips are starting to protest against the elements and Nik having to go for a pee in the middle of the night.
Leaving Puerto Natales the next two days of driving would take us over the border into Argentina for the last time and to our final destination, Ushuaia, the most southerly city in the world. We started by crossing the relative flat pampas and again had the chance to experience the Patagonian winds. So strong they halved the trucks speed, but you can have fun by tottering around and trying to stand at 45 degree angles. On one such occassion June was caught short and while assuming the position anchoring herself to Tommy´s door handle with one hand managed to urinate over a small herd of guanacos standing 50 yards away, quite impressive and not something you see everyday. An uneventful border crossing and the km´s were ticking off as we closed in on the finish line. 50k out the landscape changed into snow covered mountains and icy roads giving us a nail biting finish as more than once we planed across the road on the ice. As we reached the city limit there was no marching bands or ticker tape parades, infact there was nobody full stop, we managed to flag down a local to take the obligatory photo at the sign. Then checked into a hostal and out for a celebratory meal and spent the evening wallowing in our glory. Our next task was to off load Tommy. We had decided a few weeks ago that if we made it all the way we would donate the truck to a charity or some worthy cause. We chose our prefered beneficiaries, June´s was a programme for helping orphaned children with re-housing and mine was the Perky Penguin lap dancing club. June was adament that her cause was more worthy and I eventually succumbed. I just hoped she could live with herself knowing that those poor girls would have to walk home after work in the freezing cold with only a thong and tassles under their coats. As it turned out after a couple of frantic days running around we were unable to give the truck to charity as second hand vehicles can not be imported into Tierra del Fuego. After a short panic we found a French/Canadian couple at the hostal who were pleased to take the truck on with the intention of travelling up north and giving the truck to a building programme for the poor in Buenos Aires. They had just spent a month working on the programme and were sure they would not be over concerned about legislation. The city of Ushuaia has the spectacular back drop of a snowy mountain range. We have spent a few days visiting and hiking in the close by Tierra del Fuego national park including a boat trip up the Beagle Channel checking out the postcard scenery and wildlife. The plan is to fly up to Buenos Aires for our last week for some 'rehabilitation´. We will be spending time re-learning our table manners, the correct protocol for toilet use and the purchase of some much needed new clothes as I look a bit like the love child of Compo and Norah Batty at the moment. Before I sign off I think it is an appropriate time to pay tribute to my travelling companions having achieved our goal. Firstly Tommy the truck, 20,227 miles, 12 different countries, two interchanging bickering drivers and countless cocktails of different fuels. All this with no significant mechanical problems, only one puncture a duff break light and a windscreen wiper that flaps around in the wind...... what a legend. Secondly, Teddy Craneswater (TC), although we have not enjoyed the best relationship I must admit he has not been a total waste of space. He makes a good back support on long drives and did prove useful when I once ran out of toilet paper. Last but not least there is June, what can I say, she can knock up a meal on a single burner any place in the most adverse of weather conditions. She is extremely low maintenance, more than makes up for my sadly lacking social skills and as keeper of 'the purse that never opens´should ensure we have a bit of money when we get home. In fact if anyone is planning an arduous overland journey across some far flung continent I would strongly recommend that you take June with you...... please!

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