Patagonia: wind, steppe and mountains


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South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Chaltén
January 5th 2007
Published: January 22nd 2007
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I am having a nightmare. An unrelenting headwind is blowing dust and grit into my face as I ride directly into it. The wind is progressively sapping my energy, blowing me across the road or off it, and frustrating all my efforts to move forward. I retreat inwardly, ignoring the brown landscape, experiencing nothing but the roaring in my ears and the constant attention my bike needs to keep upright... Read Full Entry



Photos are below
Photos: 38, Displayed: 21


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On the boat, Lago del DesiertoOn the boat, Lago del Desierto
On the boat, Lago del Desierto

Fitzroy, wrapped in cloud, is in the background
This wayThis way
This way

Marker pointing the way to Refugio Rio Diablo, and a lookout over the southern ice field
No bridges hereNo bridges here
No bridges here

On the walk to Refugio Rio Diablo. This water was not for the faint hearted!
Looking into ChileLooking into Chile
Looking into Chile

A glacier at the northern edge of the southern ice field, a spot mostly frequented by Argentinean border guards
Dave carries his bike along a narrow trackDave carries his bike along a narrow track
Dave carries his bike along a narrow track

Trekking towards the Chilean border
More narrow trackMore narrow track
More narrow track

Trekking towards the Chilean border
Claire negotiates a... um... bridgeClaire negotiates a... um... bridge
Claire negotiates a... um... bridge

Trekking towards the Chilean border
At last, a chance to rideAt last, a chance to ride
At last, a chance to ride

Trekking towards the Chilean border
Claire negotiates a riverClaire negotiates a river
Claire negotiates a river

Chilean border to Lago O'Higgins



26th January 2007

You're crazy!!
Dave, I hardly recognised you with all that hair on your face but Claire, If I were you, I would be jealous as at least Dave would have a warm face when the wind threatens to blow you away! Seriously though I admire your courage but think you are crazy. I will satisfy my desire to see that part of the world through your blogs and stick to warmer climates myself. Keep pushing on, you will have some wonderful memories at the end of it all. Sheila
26th January 2007

WOW!
The photos look amazing! I bet it looks even better in real life...we are all very envious!
28th January 2007

Happy Belated New Year!
Hi Claire and Dave, It is always great to hear from you. I'm sure you will never forget the Christmas and the New Year's Day in Patagonia. We will keep praying for your safeness and good fortune. Love, Shoji and Junko
28th January 2007

Brrrrrr looks awfully windy
Hi, you two, what little devils you both are for punishment, I thought this was going to be a holiday! Your Father hated the wnd you must take after him, but he never met anything like you two are experiencing. Here we are complaing about a great wind here last week and yet it was nothing like yours. Glad you are getting a rest for a few days, look after each other, love mum xxxx
29th January 2007

Patagonia
About the only thing I know about Patagonia is that it's part of the Antarctic continent which may go some way to explain why it's so inhospitable. Your journey through it sounds like a constant struggle against nature and although there are some definite highlights to the trip I was wondering; how do you keep your spirits up? After many days in near freezing, wind buffeting conditions how does it feel to carry on? Another thing I was wondering is how to get cash out there. Are you relying on what you've taken with you or are there autobanks where you are able to draw more out? Have you ever run out of cash at any point?
29th January 2007

US$130 from El Calafate to El Chalten
That's how much it cost me by private car (why? well that's another story) the windscreen was cracked, I couldn't open my door, the driver spoke No English At All and the dust was dreadful but but I still think it was worth it! And what will happen to the charm of El Chalten when it is bitumen all the way? Another El Calafate? Fantastic reading your adventures - makes me want to go back and do it all again.
7th February 2007

What a Christmas and New Year
What spectacular photos of Mt Fitzroy and the story of this Patagonian journey shows the stark reality of the hardships such a harsh environment offers. So much beauty dotted amongst an impossible landscape. Your rewards are very well earned and the true grit and sense of spirit you each possess is truly amazing. But then you are each there by choice and so many people are there is such an environment purely by accident of birth. I thought Dave was looking quite buff and muscular and Claire, you look wonderfully fit and athletic. It was nice to see you sitting on the jetty waiting for the boat together .....and resting. Take care and love you both. Jules
7th March 2007

WOW
It's been ages since I looked at your blogs and I am awe struck. Great to see you are having such a great time. Nick and Kerry are over there now and they have just set up their blog. We all miss you. Cheers daver
12th November 2007

One of my All Time Favorites
"lago Torre with Cerro Torre behind it, and Fitzroy on the right" is one of my favorites! What I wouldnt give to sit at that viewpoint all day, winter or summer. I saw it on the "travel photos" link, and deservedly so!

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