Getting even more Chile...

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Literally. Since riding into Patagonia, both Chilean and Argentinian, the temperature has plummeted.

Our first clue as to the coming change in climactic conditions was during a border crossing, where as we climbed up across the Andes once more, the rain began to turn to snow, and the temperature gauge on the bike dropped to 1 degree Celsius. Not great on a motorbike. At least we had changed our now bald road tyres for full on knobblies in advance of the dirt roads ahead, affording at least some modicum of grip in the thick snow.

Since then, the weather has been somewhat up and down - sunny and cold on some days, allowing spectacular views, and rainy and foggy on others, leaving us riding through allegedly incredible scenery unable to see much beyond the end of our noses. Such is life.

Highlights:

Carratera Austral, Chile

Carved through the remote eastern fringes of Patagonia, this dirt track represents one of General Pinochet's few contributions to the sum of human happiness. Every time I think we've finally reached the arse end of nowhere (in a good way) on this trip, up pops another strong contender - quality.

Ruta

40, Argentina
If you like riding down 200 mile sections of gravel track, with a 250 mile an hour crosswind and no sign of a Little Chef for a quick cup of tea, get yerself down here now! This is one of those experiences that you enjoy chiefly in retrospect, and so that you can stand proud when you sew a Ruta 40 patch onto your jacket afterwards.

Perito Moreno Glacier

After 7 days of riding through dirt roads in all kinds of conditions, we were due a day off, and so joined the coach-borne masses on a trip to Lago Argentina and the Glacier National Park. Just for a day, it was nice to let someone else do the driving/thinking, and the glaciers are superb.

It's now less than a week until we are scheduled to roll into Ushuaia, the most southerly point of the road. A little nervousness is setting in as we realise how close we are, and how much it means to us to reach the end in one piece. Someone has suggested wearing rollerskates as stabilisers as we ride along to afford an extra level of security, which is excellent thinking. I might have to look around El Calafate for a pair before we leave.

Suerte!

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Photos

Welcome to Patagonia
Not ideal conditions for riding a motorbike.

Sunday morning ride
The Zig Zag at Box Hill, or this little number in Chile? Tough choice...

Carratera Austral
Dirt roads aren't really my speciality, but if you have to practice, this isn't such a bad place to do it.

Meet Chris
He's made it 19,000 miles from Alaska, and he's got 1,000 to go until Ushuaia. Then he's destroyed his bike - oh well.

Ruta 40
Soon, they will tarmac it, and it'll be packed. For now, it's more or less empty, so enjoy it while it lasts.

Ruta 40 again
Here, I've contravened elementary 'sticker law' by applying my Ruta 40 transfer before completing it, which is not clever. Seem to have got away with it, though.

Lake Argentina
Icebergs, mountains, clear blue water etc etc.

Perito Moreno Glacier
60 meters high, in all kinds of funny shapes. Cool.

Comments

[simon]

Restaurant at the end of the Universe
I can't believe you're so close to the end of the trip. The photos and blog have been inspiring. One thing worries me - isn't it supposed to be summer over there? I can't remember if Max is a fish-eater, but if you both like fish and seafood then here is a recommendation for you in Ushuaia. It's expensive for Argentina, but worth it to celebrate getting there. It's called Kaupe. kaupe 'dot' com 'dot' ar/ should get you salivating. Really fab wines too - the best that Argentina has. What date are you back in the UK?

[matt]

ice ice baby
Amazing stuff, guys. That glacier is awesome. I can't quite believe you've only got a week to go -- it seems to have gone by in the twinkling of an eye. Enjoy the final leg and try not to get too cold. Do they do jugs of Pimms in Ushuaia?

[Alison]

Glad to hear you are still all in one piece. Looking forward to seeing you - although I'm sure you're not really looking forward to seeing us... its ok we wont take offence!

[rich]

Are you Ewan McGregor in disguise? Looks pretty hardcore but amazing. I'm predicting that you won't ever want to get rid of the Beemer when you return. Does it have a name yet? Give a 'big respect' to Christene. She has done amazingly well to still be with you (actually we haven't seen any pictures of her for a while? She is with you isn't she? Have a fantastic final coundown and enjoy the Argentine Bubbly at the finish line. Allez Allez! Rich

[Sophia Robb]

Tell Chris that he can open his eyes as his face seems to have come off better than the front end of his bike. Poor chap - hope someone offered him a lift on the back of their bike the rest of the way. Glad that you are both still in one bit. The scenery certainly is spectacular when visible. Oh - and ask Simon about his glacier trek on which they didn't actually see any... Love to you both Sophia x

[Sharing the Journey]

Let me ask ...
I have several questions ... 1. are y'all crazy? I sure hope y'all have heated gear!! 2. Poor Chris ... what happened? 3. what kind of bike are you traveling on? Ride safe, Alec PS ... I am planning a ride to Mrytle Beach monday ... a lot warmer there and old 300 mile round trip ... meeting friends for lunch.

[anonymous]

Can't believe your nearly at the end of your trip! It's been really great following you both. Enjoy the final part of the journey. Take care. Susan xx

[Simon Cowell]

Chile willy?
Well, you think you've had it tough: it was very windy and rainy on the Isle of Purbeck this weekend, I'll have you know, although there's no sign of the Swanage glacier yet for this year. Did you happen to go anywhere near Puerto Prat, or Canal Cockburn? Poor Chris. Go safely: not far now!