Cafayate

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We arrived in Cafayate in the evening and luckily for us, the Rusty K hostel had a room for us. As we got off the bus we were approached by many people offering us rooms, but we wanted to go our own way and look for the recommended Lonely Planet hostel.

It being very cold, we went to the main plaza in search of the warmest looking restaurant we could find! El Rancho did the trick, the restaurant with a fire! A hot bowl of Locro - a meat and corn stew, filled and warmed us up before we headed to bed wearing many layers!

Cafayate, with it's slower pace of life was a great place to stroll around and it's hard to get lost because it's so small! There was a beautiful main square with cafes, where we sat outside in our jumpers and sunglasses under the strong sun and clear blue skies. There were bodegas a plenty in Cafayate. We visited two for wine tastings and a tour which was educational and delicious! There is a sweeter white wine specific to the region, called Torrontes. Cafayate is the second largest area for wine production in Argentina, after Mendoza. In one barrel of wine there are 225 litres, and these barrells are stored for between eleven months and two years. We saw a lot of barrells in every bodega, now that is a lot of wine for a small town!! The oak from the barells can also flavour the wine we learnt.

We walked a couple of kilometres out of town to the cow and goats cheese factory. The walk itself was very pleasant, along a quiet dusty road, surrounded by mountains and hazy horizons.

Cafayate was a very relaxing place to enjoy the local wine and cuisine, of which empanadas cannot be overlooked... small pockets of pastry with various fillings is the order of the day(s!). Casa de Empañadas is a very popular spot amongst locals and tourists. Humitos are popular too, which are steamed maize snacks.

There are currently 24 bodegas in Cafayate. Fifteen years ago, there were only six. They call it 'the pueblo con todos' - the town with everything. It is always sunny in Cafayate and it's location makes it excellent for vineyards. The altitude of Cafayate makes a difference to the flavor of the wine.

Also in Cafayate was an artisan market, with lots of handmade items and llama wool products. The other must-do is a day trip to the Quebrada de las conches (see next blog). If you are a wine lover, you will be happy to spend a few days in Cafayate with many wineries in the area, and even an ice-cream shop that sells cabernet sauvignon ice-cream!

JHG

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