Bariloche: Gateway to Patagonia

---

Our next stop was San Carlos de Bariloche, or Bariloche for short, the self-proclaimed gateway to the Lake District and Patagonia, and a mere 23 hour bus ride from Cordoba. Our plan had been to take advantage of the spectacular hiking and biking opportunities available in this idyllic mountain town, which in appearance was not unlike something you might expect to encounter in Alpine Switzerland or France. Wooden chalets were the main architectural staple, and the main streets were lined with cozy restaurants in which travellers and locals alike huddled around blazing log fires to escape the icy grip of the oncoming Patagonian winter. However, as fate would have it, Katie became quite ill with a stomach bug and head cold, no doubt the result in a drop in temperature of at least 10/15 degrees between our time in sunny Brazil less than a week before, and so our grand plans for trekking in the stunning surroundings had to be postponed.

However, that´s not to say that our time in Bariloche was at all wasted. On our first day we managed a short 40 minute hike to a nearby ¨mirador¨ or lookout spot, which gave simply spectacular views over the sprawling mountain scenery of which Bariloche is at the heart. Icy peaks towered above us in all directions, interspersed with shimmering alpine lakes as far as the eye could see. It really was an overwhelming spectacle, and in very few places that I have visited in my lifetime is the sheer power and immensity of nature more in evidence. Rather than stand in the bitter cold for long however, we stopped for an hour or so to sample a hot chocolate and a slice of lemon pie in the on-site cafe, and drink in the spectacular scenery provided by enormous panoramic windows giving out onto the surrounding area. When we finally managed to drag ourselves away, we returned to our hostel and had dinner in the bar, where of course I made sure to sample the local brew, before retiring to our room for perhaps the worst night´s sleep so far. Given that it was low season, the hostel must have been trying to make some savings, as all night long the heating was turned on and off, on and off, meaning that our enormous room, provided for by one tiny radiator, never rose above 2 degrees the entire night. The next morning, before so much as eating breakfast, we resolved to find somewhere else to rest our weary, frostbitten heads. The change could not have been more drastic. Bariloche´s most popular hostel is situated at the penthouse of the town´s tallest building, and its balcony provides views of the area almost on a par with those we had to scale a small mountain to see. The atmosphere was relaxed and cosy and... wait for it, the entire building had UNDERFLOOR heating. We were in paradise. On our second night they even put on a bring your own dish event where, as the name suggests, all the guests made or bought their own food to be shared amongst everyone, and we had a great night sitting up until the wee hours drinking and swapping stories with fellow travellers.

The following day, defrosted and well rested, we attempted a 3 or 4 hour hike to the top of a nearby mountain, which apparently promised similarly spectacular views as the day before. As we got around halfway up however, Katie´s illness proved too much, and we were forced to turn back. Of course we were disappointed, but as the old adage has it, every cloud... I managed to catch at least the second half of the Champions League final in a local pub! Unfortunately that was it for Katie´s enjoyment Bariloche´s delights, as she was pretty much confined to bed for the next day or so. Not wanting to miss out myself, the following day I set out for an intrepid trek and scramble up a very steep path (or so I was warned) to the nearest accessible peak. When I got there however, I was told by the tourist information office that such a path didn´t exist, and that the only way up was by cable car. Frustrated, but nonetheless keen to sample the revolving restaurant at the top, I regretfully paid my ticket. To my immense annoyance, as I was halfway up, I picked out a very obvious track snaking up through the trees. Thieving buggers had barefaced lied just to get their grubby hands on my 5 quid! In fairness though, getting towards the top it did look rather challenging, and I´d be lying if I told you a part of me wasn´t slightly relieved relaxing in my cushy cable car! Once on top it was so bitterly cold that I could only withstand about 5 minutes of snapping time before my fingers were too numb to even press the camera shutter, and I went straight to the revolving restaurant for a coffee and a read. Needless to say the scenery was utterly magnificent, and definitely worth all that effort of getting to the top... 😉

That was about it for our time in Bariloche, besides a nice dinner where we sampled the local delicacy of wild boar... an acquired taste to say the least! Given that time was fast running against us, we decided to abandon our plans to head north to Mendoza and Argentinian wine country, and hop over the Andes into Patagonian Chile instead. A decision which was to prove perhaps the best of our entire trip so far...

---