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Published: November 17th 2009
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Sky & Sand
Salar de Uyuni Getting a bit lazy with the old blogging now so need to update for the past three weeks or so. As we're getting closer to the end we need to cram in as much as possible so we're moving quickly. Not everywhere has been massively eventful or noteworthy so I will try to skip over a few places where I can.
So after Sucre we had a tiring 12 hour bus ride to Uyuni which went via Potosi (the worlds highest city) which was a pretty bleak place. Uyuni wasn't much better, so on arrival we made plans to leave the next morning to the nearby salt flats, Salar de Uyuni, which are the worlds highest and largest. We met two Dutch girls on the bus (Sanne and Renske) who were on the same route as us so we clubbed together and chartered our own Landcruiser to take us on the four day journey through the flats and straight onto Tupiza in the very south of Bolivia.
In short, we spent four days in great big expanses of nothingness. I have attached lots of photos as they do more justice to the trip than my explanation but the scenery
was spectacular. We saw many lagoons populated by rare pink flamingos, bizarre rock formations, hot springs and lots of remote living wildlife. The accommodation was basic to say the least (one 'hotel' was made entirely from salt). It was freezing so at night we played cards for high stakes - the spare blankets! Overall the trip was a really good experience, there is something appealing about being completely in the middle of nowhere. On the third and fourth days after we'd escaped the hoards on circular trips we barely saw another soul. When we finally reached Tupiza we couldn't wait to get out of the Landcruiser. It's amazing how exhausting sitting on your backside admiring the view can be.
Tupiza turned out to be slow and hot so we made a sharpish exit after a night spent in a hotel that was almost set ablaze by a random bush fire as we watched. We had planned to visit the nearby graves of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid (they died here after their final and obviously fatal robbery) but when we heard it involved a trip in a Landcruiser we just couldn't face it. So the next day we
got on our final Bolivian bus (thankfully) and headed to Villazon where we walked over the border to La Quiaca and into Argentina. After checking into a hotel we went on the search for some food but could only find some
sort of American diner/greasy spoon place. We didn't have to much hope of it being that good but our steaks arrived and it was absolutely melt in the mouth stuff. We immediately realised the benefit of being in Argentina. We had loved Bolivia but the food was at times inedible, chicken and eggs were the staples but there was little else apart from Llama which was just about preferable to the tough and chewy beef. In terms of food Argentina was definitely a return to civilisation.
The next day we got a bus into the main city in the north west Argentina, Salta. It was nice but nothing to rave about. We basically caught up with some friends and ate loads of steak. The thing that we noticed about Salta (and the rest of Argentina since) is how European the place is. Compared to Bolivia and Peru there are hardly any Indigenous people. Everyone is about 5 inches
Pink Flamingo
Salar de Uyuni taller and wearing western rather than tradition dress. Salta felt like a slightly run down Spanish city and was sweltering hot (40 degrees) so after a couple of days we headed south to the wine producing mecca; Mendoza. The bus ride was a punishing sounding 18 hours, but was helped by the fact Argentina has the world's best buses (and just as importantly good roads). Semi-cama is the equivalent to business class flying and so almost fully reclining seats aid your sleep and the giant size whisky shots that they dispense don't do any harm either. We liked Mendoza where we obviously toured the wineries (on bicycle) who varied quite a lot in their generosity. We had a good group apart from two French supposed wine connoisseurs who hardly swallowed anything that passed their lips all day. We hung around with a group of Dutch people who agreed that spitting out was a crime.
After a few days in Mendoza we headed east to Chile to Santiago. We had been warned that it was a bit dull but first impressions were good as we explored the lively suburb we were staying in - Bellavista. However after another day we
were stuck for something to do after literally exploring the whole of the city centre. I'm not sure why, but Santiago lacks something that all other South American cities seem to have - vibrancy and energy. We did a day trip to nearby to Valpraiso and Vina Del Mar but found them equally uninspiring. The one positive about Santiago is the food - amazing seafood. We ate Ceviche (raw fish cured with lemon) and we had fantastic Sushi (not very Chilean) in Vina Del Mar. Like Argentina they also have good and cheap red wine everywhere. We were worried that Chile was going to be a bit of a dud but we persisted with our plan and took another overnight bus south to Temuco in the Lake District. Temuco turned out to be a slight botch up on my part as it was the only town in the Lake District without access or close proximity to a Lake. The good news was that we loved it! Because of it's lack of obvious attractions it was completely tourist free, completely English speaking free but with very hospitable locals. The area was pretty affluent so we spent the morning at a posh
More Dessert
Salar de Uyuni shopping centre, which Nat loved, followed by a nice stroll in their country park. The next day we continued south to the more lake orientated part of the Lake District, Pucon. Even more quaint that Temuco, Pucon looks like an Austrian alpine village - all wooden chalets, lakes and mountains. We read that one of the things to do in Pucon was to climb the local volcano, Villarrica which we were hesitant about but our host Claudio soon persuaded us. It turned out to be very very challenging. Twelve of us plus four guides set off at 5am in full climbing gear plus a rucksack full of equipment. The whole volcano is covered with snow and I think the alarm bells started to ring when at the start we were taught how to use a pick in case of emergency e.g. falling down the mountain. An hour later out came the crampons (metal spikes that fit around your shoes) as the slope became steeper and steeper. There were times when we wanted to quit and turn around (four of the group did leaving with us with just one guide) but we zig-zagged on through the pain to the top, which
we managed in about six hours. After giving Nat some stick for the Death Road retirement I have to say she was a real trooper on this climb, and the first woman to the top on the day. We both agreed that it was one of the hardest things that we'd ever done physically, but it gave a massive sense of achievement. After brief congratulations with the group at the top (and after breathing in some toxic fumes) we started our descent aided by the next surprise from the rucksack - a sort of giant nappy which allowed us to slide down most of the way. The next day we felt surprisingly fresh so we did a 7 hour hike around the beautiful Huerquehue national park. Probably a mistake as the following day we ached from head to toe.
Luckily we were on the move again and never have we appreciated a 12 hour bus trip so much. The journey took us across the Andes and back into Argentina but still in the Lake District to Bariloche.
This place (from where I am writing) looks similar to Pucon but bigger, more mountains, bigger lakes etc. We were supposed to
be mountain biking today as we continue to pretend to be outdoorsy types, but unfortunately we have been rained off, (fingers crossed that tomorrow is dry) but at least it has given me a chance to do this update. Signing off now as Nat has cabin fever so we may venture into town for a coffee.
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