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Published: August 8th 2006
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We arrived in Mendoza in the sunshine, and were soon wandering around without the several layers of coats that had become the norm in the past few weeks. Hurray, finally we could get to do some trekking without the weather interfering!
The next day we decided to hire a couple of bikes and cycle around the local wineries. Mendoza is famous in Argentina for its wine production, having a climate similar to California wine valley. Apparently. However after discarding our jackets the day before, that night the storm hit, winds blew and rain fell, and our idyllic ride in the sun turned into a not quite so idyllic ride in the cold wind, although the rain did hold off most of the way. The first winery we stopped at was a small company with good quality wines, specialising in Malbec, a grape only really succesful in Argentina. We recieved a personalised tour, and the whole process from planting the vines, to hand picking the grapes, to various stages of fermentation, which I have to admit I can´t fully remember. Then the best bit - tasting the wines. This is when Zoe and I try to use our creative imagination and
come up with different words to describe the taste ... caramel, red berry, oak with just a hint of vanilla...
The next winery is shut due to the storm having blown down power cales, the third place is much larger, and we get a group tour in Spanish around the different parts of the winery. The wine here isn't nearly as good as the first place, but we get further lessons on how to check quality 1) Look at the colour, the darker the better, and look at the 'legs' on the glass, should be long lasting.
2) Sniff. Swirl the glass around and then stick your nose in for full flavour.
3) Taste. First sip is disregarded, second sip is when the taste buds are prepared, and you get the full flavour.
See we're experts now...!
The following day we had been hoping to commence our 3day trek in the mountains, but due to the storm, the main road from Argentina to Chile is shut due to the snow, and there are no buses going up into the mountains. So instead we opt for a horse ride, hot springs and trek, with a bit of abseiling thrown in.
wine tasting step3
...and finally taste... Or so we thought. When we arrive, there is noone there to meet us, and the park with the hot springs is shut, again the stoorm has done its damage. After hanging around for awhile our guide finally arrives, and the 3 of us slowly depart on our mountain ponies. Zoe's horse is actually quite tall, and with no mounting blocks, it takes the guide lifting Zoe up before she can get her leg over. Fortunately my mount is a lot smaller, and I don't have the same problems! The horse trek is done at slow speed, as it is mostly up and then down hill into the mountains. Not highly exciting, but I'm actully really happy to be back with horses again. Realised how much I miss being with them after 3 months seeing them every day.
The ride finishes in time for lunch, and after that we have a choice of hot springs at the posh hotel (as the park is closed), or some abseiling/climbing. As Zoe has been desperate to do some proper climbing, she does that, and I opt for the hot springs. Purely in a selfless act of course, so I as a complete beginner
Horseriding take 1
Not the fastest ride ever, bu good to be back with horses again don't hold Zoe back on the climbing...Hot springs and spa are wonderful, I get led from hot pool to sauna to jacuzzi to another hot pool, to natural mud and shower pool, and feel totally pampered. Could really get used to this hot springs thing!
We get back to hear that the road has opened, and we can finally do our trek... however we will need to hire equipment, as due to the snow we now need snow shoes, snow boots and walking poles. I have to admit I'm slightly apprehensive, as I've never used snow shoes before, and hiking up hills is one thing, climbing mountains quite another. The hire shop stays open late for us to get all the gear, and the next day we get up at 5.30am to cath the bus up the mountains. We meet our guide - a lovely Argentinian called Fernando, whose English is non existent. This gives us a perfect oportunity to practise our Spanish. Or rather Zoe's Spanish, as I'm not the worlds biggest talker at the best of times, and when having to speak in a foreign language I'm not exactly chatty...
The bus climbs higher and higher up
Snow shoes
Yes, we're looking hot! into the mountains, and after 4 hours we reach our destination - Penintentes. Actually one of Argentinas small ski resorts, we are surrounded by snow covered mountains. We dump our bags, and head off along a snow covered railway. After piling on loads of layers, we slowly strip off, as the sky is blue, and the walking keeping us warm. Soon the snow gets too deep for walking normally, you place your foot down, and then have to spend 5 mins trying to remove your leg from a large hole, without drowning completely! This is where the snow shoes come in handy... so we strap on our plastic tennis rackets to our feet, and carry on, walking poles swinging. In actual fact, despite my fears, it's not difficult. The climbing up the mountainside isn't far, due to the fresh snow there are high avalanche risks on most of the steep slopes, so its a fairly chilled out day. When we return to the hostel, there is no room at the inn, and we get moved to a hotel instead, not bad!
The next day we get up planning to catch the bus further up the mountains again, towards Acongagua National
Aconguagua NP
Day 2, getting good with the shoes now Park. However after waiting for over an hour for the bus to show up, and seeing no other traffic coming the same direction, we realise the road is blocked again, this time due to protests. Fortunately a local with a 4x4 lets us all squeeze into his car, and gives us a lift to the park instead. Acongagua is the highest peak in the Andes, standing at 6930m high. Only the truly mad try climbing it in winter, and not all survive, so we settled for walking in the surrounding park instead, with pretty views of the giant mountain. Snow shoes on again, and the gentle hills and valleys prove no difficulty. We wander around lakes, unaware that they exist under the snow, spot a Condor flying above us, catch glimpses of hares running around with natural snow shoes, and marvel at the stunning scenery around us.
The afternoon takes us over an old railway bridge over a river. The bridge is fairly old, and much of the planking is missing. It is a case of taking off our snow shoes, strapping poles to packs, and balancing tihghtrope fashion over the metal rails, making a concious effort not to look
Inca Bridge
Natural bridge with hot springs and inca ruins. Classic tourist spot, only trouble it' 5 hour bus journey into the mountains down! As a reward we find ourselves at the 'Inca bridge', which is a naturally formed bridge, which the Inca's built underneath, where a hot spring erupts from the below. The water is very sulphuric, and gives the water an orange colour. Quite a tourist attraction - you can even buy candy floss here!
That night I leave Zoe and head back to Mendoza. The 4 hour journey becomes 6, as there is a lorry overturned on the road, and nothing moves in either direction for a couple of hours.
This means I get back too late to book the horse riding tour for the next day, so I await for Zoe's return. I'm expecting a package from Fedex, containing my replacement bank cards and repaired iPod, but unfortunately they still haven't arrived.
Our next day horse riding tour is slightly more fast paced than the previous (we get into trot on the odd occasion), the views are certainly better, with beautiful valleys and snow topped mountains, and definately a lot warmer, only a t-shirt requitred, but our guide is even less talkative than I am, and we spend the 3 hours in relative silence.
When we get
Horseriding take 2
Warmer, better scenery, puty about the guide back my parcel has not arrived. Instead there is a letter from Fedex saying that my parcel arrived in Buenos Aires a week ago, and needs picking up from customs by me, with my passport. There is potentially a large fine from customs, due to me 'importing repaired goods' ie my iPod. Not what I wanted to hear. So I guess it's back to BA for me at least...
Photos to follow when I have a co-operative computer
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Tansy
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Travels
Hi Anna I have just returned from my travels - We made it all the way to Sherwood Forest! Had a fabulous time. Cant imagine it being cold and snowy. Your photos are absolutely fantastic, keep it up - lots of love Tans and crew.