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Published: February 26th 2008
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To combat jet lag, a little light exercise is recommended. So, on that basis, cycling over the Andes from Santiago to Mendoza should do the trick.
So, after a day of bike building and trying to keep awake during the day rather than at night, we departed the rather pleasant little town of Los Andes and pedalled nervously towards the mountains looming ahead. Our first stop was at Rio Blanco, not so much a town or even a village, just a general area which happened to have an out-of-season ski centre. It seemed very Tyrolean and we passed a pleasant evening half expecting lederhosen clad figures to leap out from behind the cheese plant. Though the climbing was very gentle, the jet lag was draining and by the end of the day I felt about 50.
The following day we set off to tackle the short distance to Portillo - a ski centre at 2880 metres, just below the top of the Cristo Redentor pass. Again, the gradient was steady with numerous switchbacks leading gently upwards. All around high, high, mountains. The occasional condor circled overhead and hobbies buzzed small birds. Having crept up the pass to Portillo, and
finding that the only accomodation appeared to be a smart ski centre, it would have been churlish to pass it by, and so we settled in for a night of luxury in a beautiful setting beside the deep blue, mirror-like Lago del Inca. At dinner we watched an eagle hunting over the lake. With just another 400 meters of altitude before cresting the pass, it seemed to be a fait accompli, achieved relatively painlessly, and Richard declared himself to feel cheated. I think that must be a man thing. I noted that he still felt that he deserved the fillet steak that he devoured that night.
Famous last words! A few hundred metres after setting off the following day the combination of cool morning air and altitude hit us like a sledge hammer. We huffed and puffed our way to the Chilean border and then through 3km of no man´s land to the Cristo Redentor tunnel. The Chilean authorities drove us through the tunnel and deposited us on the Argentina side where we were given a note stating that we had two bicycles (Remember this; it might come in useful later). From there began a downhill which was to
last three days more or less, passing Aconcagua mountain which soars to almost 7000m in height - sadly its peak was surrounded in cloud. Beautiful many-coloured rocks stood guard beside the road. We swooped past trekking and climbing centres where it is recommended that intending hikers acclimatise before ascending Aconcagua. Unfortunately, a strong head wind applied brakes to our downward flight and we had a much harder than expected ride, arriving in Uspallata ready to reclaim a few hours of lost sleep.
And the bicycle receipt? About 30km down the road it was reclaimed by the authorities. What purpose it served we cannot say.
Just as we thought we were getting ahead of the jet lag, we discovered that Argentina runs 1 hour ahead of Chile. There goes another hour. Never mind, there is always tomorrow night.
And so, the next day we set off towards Mendoza planning to stop at Entrerillos. This scattered community beside a recently formed lake had just a campsite and a few simple places to eat. We watched the weekend visitors fishing and messing about in boats, and wondered why so many young people had been attracted to the campsite. As we
Here we go
First set of switchbacks lay in the tent feeling the ground reverberating to the disco beat until 06.30 the next morning, the realisation dawned. At 07.30 the local cockeral announced his presence and was promptly drowned out by Frank Sinatra at full volume.
The next day´s ride was a huge swoop down to Mendoza, partly riding on hard shoulder to avoid the lorries, and then taking a picturesque short cut away from the main road. Along this leafy lane we bought home made sweet tarts from the local ladies before completing the final leg to the city.
What a lovely city is Mendoza, with leafy squares, cafes and ice-cream parlours aplenty and a relaxed atmosphere. We have whiled away a couple of days, shopping for supplies and enjoying the local specialities: tasty empanadas for lunch; ice-creams at tea time and steaks for dinner. The next few days will see us in remote areas once again and so we are enjoying the city comforts while we can.
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Tot: 0.104s; Tpl: 0.011s; cc: 15; qc: 67; dbt: 0.073s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb
Nora and Dad
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Never mind jet lag, What about the muscles?
Your recent exploits make our eyes water. The last time dad rode a bike, 200 yards required 2 hours recovery time.With 4000 miles behind you and a 39 hour 18th February, plus jet lag, we thought that Chile to Argentina would probably be a mountain too far. But we forgot, being Pearts and with ice cream and steak inside you, whats a mountain or two. Massive achievment, congrats, and good cycling.Lol. Nora and Dad