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Published: November 2nd 2006
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Knackwurst und bier!Knackwurst und bier!Knackwurst und bier!

A classic German meal . . . in the middle of Argentina?
As you're driving through the winding mountain roads of central Argentina, one of the last things you expect to come upon is a tiny little German town, full of chocolate, wooden architecture, and beer. However, that's just what you'll discover if you happen to find yourself in the quaint little village of Villa General Belgrano, just 90 km from Córdoba. So how did a German town end up in the middle of the Argentine mountains? Glad you asked . . .

Back in 1943 during World War II, British seaman severely wounded the Nazi ship the Acorazado Graf Spee off the coast of Uruguay. The crew made it to shore in Montevideo and then sculled the ship in order to protect military secrets that were hidden onboard. Banding together, the sailors travelled over land to the tiny village of Villa General Belgrano in the central Argentine mountains, founded by two Germans about 13 years earlier. Since then, it has definitely taken on a more touristic touch, but walking around town you can still notice some people that are clearly descendents of the original settlers or that practice traditional German crafts. It has also attracted other European (especially Swiss) although in
The clocktowerThe clocktowerThe clocktower

An example of the German stylized architecture in Belgrano . . . suspiciously housing the tourism office among other things.
my entire time there, I sadly didn't hear anyone speak anything but Spanish. For anyone who's been to Helen, Georgia, it's sort of like that except much prettier, less tacky, serves better beer, and is a bit more believable . . . if only for the fact that it was settled by authentic Nazis . . . (although that fact is somehow missing from any tourist literature one might find).

For the first two weeks in October, Villa General Belgrano hosts a huge Oktoberfest celebration (officially Fiesta Nacional de Cerveza) that's attended by people from all over the country. But like any smart one-song town, it also hosts a chocolate festival among other things. Wandering the main drag, you can buy anything that you'd hope to buy in a stereotypical German town, including a good lunch of bratwurst and saurekraut. The real treat though is following signs to a local's home where you will be invited in and can purchase any sort of homemade goodies from preserves to chocolates to slices of black forest cake, all from authentic family recipes.

Beyond all that, the town is really just a pleasant place to pass some time. The region is
SheepishSheepishSheepish

I stumbled upon this flock of sheep while following a small stream that ran through town. Sheep. They're funny.
lush, green, and has sunny, idyllic afternoon, perfect for doing not much of anything, maybe walking along some of the local trails, sleeping in the grass of the plaza, or having a good conversation with a friend over a tasty, artesian beer from the local microbrewery. The town certainly doesn't warrant more than a day, but it's a unique experience if you're in the area and a welcomed changed from empanadas, steak, and watered-down beer.

Truthfully, it was a bit of an odd end to my travels through Argentina but definitely an enjoyable one. Now I'm back home (in Buenos Aires) for a few days before I begin my long journey home (the real home). It's odd to think I only have 12 days left of all this . . . I promise I won't cry. See you guys all soon.


Additional photos below
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El Cerro de la VirgenEl Cerro de la Virgen
El Cerro de la Virgen

A hearty hike up pretty good-sized hill just outside of town will give you a marvelous view of the village as well as give you a chance to pay a promise to this image of a virgen, on top of the summit (reminding you that you're still very much in Argentina).
City hallCity hall
City hall

Wait, where am I again?
Una Quilmes giganteUna Quilmes gigante
Una Quilmes gigante

. . . Only in Villa General Belgrano would you find an enormous, wooden Quilmes bottle
Arroyo El SauceArroyo El Sauce
Arroyo El Sauce

This little stream runs through town and is a quiet little place to walk, read, or just soak up some sun.
PeoplewagonPeoplewagon
Peoplewagon

Just one of the regular cars in town


3rd November 2006

I enjoy your 3rd grade grammar. I also enjoy your sheep. ish. 12 days!

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