Shot and Gut-punched in BA

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San Telmo (For sure)

Before I left home, I researched a way to get vaccines for less money as Nicole paid a whopping $400 for hers!! I found a place in BA, that administers the Yellow Fever Vaccine, free of charge. The hours are specific, but its free and the vaccine lasts 10 years, so I was down to get it. I didn´t know what to expect, so we took the train (this time we asked no one, and just went by the map), and we found it easily enough. The name of the place was something having to do with the sanitation of their borders (I was translating), so I guess they are so adamant about people not bringing diseases that they give anyone free shots. The whole thing took all of 5 minutes...I gave my passport to the man at the front desk. He told me to go to another waiting area, with a few others. Then one by one, we were called in, where a woman doctor, after a quick "hola" jabs one in the shoulder presses for a few seconds then extracts the needle, leaving a cotton ball in its place...then she says "bueno". and you´re done! What no band-aid or lollipop? Well, at least I wasn´t told to make a fist, that always make me queasy.

Feeling like I now have an invisible force field surrounding me I am up for anything? Take a nap, no...so what if we haven´t slept in days, due to weird house guests and the fact that every time we sleep over 6 hours, we both have nightmares which interestingly enough are combined with high school friends, old flames, and bad feelings which leave us curled in fetal position for at least an hour telling each other of our bad dreams and seeking comfort in one another. So, sleep is the cousin of death, and it´s the middle of the day...almost high noon, and Casa Rosada is close by....so we walk towards Centro to check it out.


Centro

We end up having to walk down a street that's almost a highway full of trucks with the exhaust pumping fumes down our lungs and turning Nicole a wicked shade of green. We tried to cut through a parking lot but was turned around by security. Because we are near government buildings, I understood the extra caution. We end up at Casa Rosada or "The Pink House", which is the Argentine's version of White House, without the lawn or green areas, but with security. There were several gates up preventing us from getting a good shot, but all you photo enthusiasts know that at high noon, there are no good shots. The light is way to harsh and directly overhead giving way to either lens flare or deep detail-less shadows. But true to my theory, my "exoticness" attracts a fat cop, with rat teeth...It looked like the first six on top we´re all broken vertically in half, with jagged edges, and uneven spacing. But he told us about a protest that would be happening there tomorrow, and directed us to where they were setting up.

We just saw a huge tower constructed of metal pipes with a banner full of black and white photos of people, most of them look to be young adults. The sign said 1500 Jueves, which means 1500 Thursdays, and has something to do with these people, who I am assuming are dead. Soon we´re chatted up by these two guys, Diego and Mathias, Mathias who is HOT HOT HOT, and who Nicole is convinced was flirting with me... (He offered a cigarette to only me, and although I declined, we are realizing that guys only offer to one of us, and that this may be a subtle signal of romantic interest) But my mind was foggy with the lack of sleep, the high heat, and the vaccine that was working its way through my body, so I may have seemed aloof. URGH!! But I did ask them about the protest and they explained it was about the 1980's when the country was under military dictatorship, and anyone who spoke against the government went missing. The photos on the tower are the "Los Desparacidos" or "the Disappeared", and the rally tomorrow was to mark the anniversary and was organized by "Los Madres de los Deparacidos", or "The Mothers of the Disappeared." I was fascinated. I know the Argentines to be passionate people and saw the televised Anti-Bush protests when our president descended upon Mar del Plata and the city went wild. No one was hurt but a few things got broken. However, because this happened in the past, it was more a rally to remember rather than to fight for change (they have a democracy now), but all of my family members on this email list know we come from a revolutionary matriarch, so this type of thing gets me going, and I know I had to be there to check it out.

It was starting at 5pm and going on for 24 hours, but it was just 1:30 pm, so we said we may come back after checking out Avenida Florida , the pedestrian-only street. It was a little too bustling for 2 sleep deprived people, so we stumbled for a few blocks before giving up, and heading towards home. By then it was close to 3 pm, and we went to the Parilla for a Choripan sandwich, which is a sausage, looks like a polish sausage, that is cut in half and served on a hero bread, with a cup of soda. Total cost $1, and its very filling, and they even give you the newspaper to read if you want.

Then we went home to nap, but for just a few hours, as to avoid any disturbing images bouncing around my cerebellum.


HELL-Ado

We woke up at 7pm, and there's daylight until around 8:30, so we decided to take a casual stroll over to Plaza Serrano. The hippies were all there, but because it was getting late, some were packing up. There´s a little fair also, which have the same people (and merchandise) every day, so I guess it´s more like an open air market. or Meat Market, as I had to translate what can only be described as "Pimp Game" to Nicole from at least 3 different guys...He speaks, I translate, she blushes....rinse and repeat. After about four of five more times, it can get a little old. I read somewhere that the Argentine men are really smooth, and lay it on really thick, which is not my style at all....one was pretty direct to her, "Usted y yo, juntos, antes se van." Translation: you, me, together, before y'all leave." Gross.

So we walk a bit and I find a silver thumb ring that I love, and it is exactly what I was looking for. I wear two silver rings(one on each middle finger) daily and have for the past 4 years, but I really love these copper/bronz bracelets, so I needed something to tie it all together. I found a silver ring, handmade, with copper and bronze pieces fused on the ring. It cost a whopping 50 pesos or $16, so this was obviously something I really liked. Unfortunately, they didnt have one large enough for my thumb, so he said he would make it for me...I was cool with that, and then he asked for a deposit. At first I was very reluctant, even if it was just 10 pesos, mainly because I have no rights here, even if I get ripped off, so I´m a little skeptical about leaving $$ without getting merchandise...but he gave me his card and phone number, and he is there daily, plus his card has the address of the shop he works for which is located in Centro, so I was reassured. Therefore, I left 10 pesos and promised to return the following day.

Nicole and I decided it was time to try some ice cream, or helado, as is the spanish word for it. The Argentines love their ice cream, and it is very evident as there is a Heladoria on very street. (as is a kiosk, parilla, pet store, italian restaurant, and pharmacy). I decided to buy a small cup of chocolate ice cream even though I know I´m a bit lactose intolerant; I figured I would just eat a bit, and trash the rest. Well, it was so rich and creamy and delicious! Yum, yum! We started walking back towards the house with the intention of going straight to the internet cafe, but after two blocks and only 6 spoonfuls, I start to feel a rumble in the jungle. Uh-Oh! I try to ignore it a force down 3 more spoonfuls of this addictive ice cream, but now my belly has expanded 3 inches, and is in full bloat mode. I silently pass the cup to Nicole and ponder my situation. Before I could control it, a loud burps escapes and echoes off the buildings of the narrow streets. Realizing the inevitable, I start to walk faster....counting the blocks in my head. Out comes another burp, but I am able to stifle this one in time to just a soft hiss, like someone letting air from a tire....but my belly is still expanded. Nicole is still blissfully ignorant, until she goes, "Uh, I gotta go to the bathroom." So, it´s not just me? That´s a relief....(I guess Misery really does love company)...by this time, I´d opened my bag and popped a Pepto Bismol chewable that I started carrying around at Marsha's suggestion. (Sure, I laughed too the first time she said it, but we were having Espresso-tinis at my old bar, and had she not left a few for me, it could have gotten ugly. Needless to say, I am now a believer)

So we, decide that we couldn´t wait, and basically we do not pass go, do not collect $200. Instead, we RUN home, where I am forced to ask myself why we didn´t pay another $200 for an apartment with a 2nd bathroom! Thankfully, Nicole's situation is a lot less severe, but for me....it was ugly. And when I thought I got relief, I joined her at the internet cafe. Three minutes after signing on, I was hit with a cramp that was similar to the bell of a boxing match signaling "Round 2"! I jumped up, telling Nicole I just had to Go....and I ran out, but not before being stopped by the Asian immigrant who owns the internet cafe, who shouted after me that I still had to pay .50 pesos!! Jerk! I tossed the coin and jetted across traffic, cursing all the red lights and old ladies in my path. The elevator never seemed to take so long, and every second is an hour as another cramp and wave of nausea hits....I head to bathroom, and emerge 10 minutes later, but decide to hang around the apartment for another 10 just to play it safe. While I´m doing that...the doorbell rings, and I tip toe stealthily to the door....and you know who it is, right? EAN!!!!!

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Photos

Tango Dancers
Every Sunday you can find dancers in San Telmo