Tango

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Open any guide book to Buenos Aires and you will find that the world claims this city as synonymous with Tango. The two are inseparable. Knowing this, I felt it only appropriate to take on the daunting task of unraveling what exactly tango is. I´m delving into the skirts of tango in Buenos Aires. Let me tell you what I´ve done.

Before even coming to Buenos Aires, I attended a world class tango show at the Ferst Center at Georgia Tech. From this show I learned that tango was a feeling, a seductive, overwhelming feeling, one that isn´t just thought up, but truly felt in the gut. Not only is it an emotion, but it is one of the most beautiful visual dances in the world. I left this show ecstatic and thrilled, breathless and enchanted.

Since arriving in Buenos Aires, I´ve learned even more. Not only is tango an emotion, but it´s more basic than that. Tango can be split into many categories, the two largest of which are music and dance. Tango music isn´t always danced to and the tango dance isn´t always done to music. The dance originated in the brothels of Buenos Aires between men waiting for the next whore. The music originated in the streets of Buenos Aires played by violins, bass, pianos, and accordian like instruments. It is a beautiful thing.

My first attempt to find tango was at the Senor Tango show. I went with my study abroad group last Thursday evening. It was near the river in the northern side of town, held in this old warehouse. This tango show was unlike my first... it was more like Tango-drama Las Vegas style, complete with live horses, dramatic lighting, smoke effects, and a stage that rotated, rose, and descended. I must admit, I wasn´t such a large fan. The musicians were fabulous, but the music was miked and fed through a large system that distorted the balance and made it infinately less intimate.

The dancing at Señor Tango was beautiful and drew heavily from the brothel origins of the dance, very carnal in nature. But when it came down to it, Señor Tango was a show. And I know a little bit too much about shows. I watch them and imagine the dancers in their sweats and wonder what the musicians are thinking about (especially the indiginous pipe player who was degrading himself by playing ode to joy on pipes for applause when his talent should take him to far greater places).

Last night, however, I found tango that touches the soul. I went to a small cafe-bookstore-bar called Clásica y Moderna for a tango singer and guitar player. The atmosphere in this café is absolutely beautiful. It´s an exposed brick building with exposed ceiling piping and duct work with old bikes and modern art on the walls. It was beautiful. The evening just started off perfectly at 1 a.m. with dulcé de leche flan (custard from the gods) and café con crema. Around 2 a.m. the singer and guitar player began. The intimate setting made me feel like I knew this singer and was the brother of the guitar player. I was so close I could see and feel the emotions of the pieces whose words I did not know. Last night, at Clásica y Moderna, tango was a community. I shared this tango with a predominantly middle aged audience drinking Malbec or Café.

Wednesday night I try my feet at tango with lessons at a popular spot near my residencía in Palermo. I wonder what new I will learn.

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Photos

Tango
Wine, roses, tango... they go so well together.

Senor Tango
The tables below at Senor Tango where I watched Vegas style Tango from a balcony above the musicians.

Clasica y Moderna
The intimate setting at cafe Clasica y Moderna made listening to this tango singer and guitar player a delight.