Buenos Aires- the porteno lifestyle

One of the great urban gems in the world is undoubtedly the Buenos Aires of today. It’s a city of over 10 million people that boasts some of the best fashion, night life, beef and soccer traditions in the world along with a mix of the problems facing South America. The city of Buenos Aires is clearly the cosmopolitan capital of South America and contains a well-educated “porteno” (local BA people) population that don’t let normal hours constrain their days and nights. As my first destination, I was excited and wasn’t quite sure what to expect.. but it’s a place I’ve quickly plugged into and could easily reside at some point.

I spent my first few days and weeks here getting acquainted with the city, taking long walks, stopping for coffees, practicing Spanish, trying to learn tango, staying out until all hours of the night and going on small trips while living in an apartment with my friend, Amy. I’m living in an area called Pallermo Alto- the northern end of town- and within a very chic neighborhood littered with great cafes, parillas (Argentinean restaurants specializing in beef), parks, stores, shopping, and more. The tree-lined streets located throughout the city mixed with cafes and restaurants quickly identify the city with other cultureal capitals like Paris and New York- they’ve even named parts of their neighborhoods Pallermo Soho and Pallermo Hollywood. It's the start of summer here and the city there is a clear break from the hectic crowds during the year (they head to Punta del Este and Mar del Plata), but it's also hot- around 90/ 95 or so at times and the sun doesn't set until 9- a nice break from the mid winter of the northern hemisphere. Throughout a city with style, culture and economic power, it is hard to imagine the social problems they have had.

The history of Buenos Aires is filled with immigration, social change, pride and economic unbalance. While it was originally a Spanish colony, they broke free from rule in 1816, began mass immigration from Spain and Italy and flourished by supplying Europe in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. While there was still massive internal conflict and a campaign to clear out their indigenous culture, the city had grown leaps and bounds by the early 20th century to become an important port and was able to export, along with beef and other natural resources, culture like the tango to both Europe and the US. However, the 20th century was filled with various military coups and instability in the government as they continued to overthrow one another at the expense of the poor; even today people have strong feelings about the policies and politics of the Peron’s during the 50’s. As short as 30 years ago, there was still massive oppression, political kidnapping and trumped-up wars (Malvinas) that have plagued the people. The most recent devaluation has really hurt both the economy and the people; however, it’s made visiting this beautiful country an inexpensive proposition for many. There are signs of recovery today as people ramble on cells phones, new restaurants open weekly and business appears brisk downtown.

And from this history comes the culture of Argentina- rich with European influence given the immigration- and also with their share of problems from their past woes. One distinction in the influence from Europe is the architecture- there are many tree-lined streets, massive avenues (they claim that 9 de Julio is the largest), and many of the important structures have been built by architects from Europe or with European education. It wasn’t until I was in the north to see Iguaçu Falls (see picture) that I saw some of the indigenous culture and people, which are still stuck in poverty and struggling. It’s an extremely complex problem not unique to Argentina that I expect I’ll see more of during the year but seems much more pronounced outside of our country.

I’ll take a minute to point out some of the best highlights I’ve experienced since being here:

- An Argentinean “asado” (barbeque with several courses of beef) with Agustin (a local here) and his friends. They start drinking at 9, cooking at 10, keep drinking, eating, argue football (I am hoping the US triumphs this year in the world cup!).. and doesn’t end until.. well, it’s time to go out- at 3!
- Watching tango shows. I’ve gone to 2 of the paid performances and they are impressive, complete with a full band, many dancers and dinner. I think we'll soon see one of these in the US!
- Lomo/ Bife de Chorizo: fantastic beef.. along with Malbec (red wine)
- Iguazu Falls is awesome! Think Niagara Falls on steroids. The widest waterfalls in the world and an incredible natural habitat that is a 2 hour flight or 20 hour bus ride from BA straddling the Brazil border.
- The style of the people: the dress well and look healthy. And they love to go out until all hours.
- I have done 2 cultural tours of the city- including downtown, San Telmo (where tango originated in the streets by the poor in the late 19th century), La Boca, Recoleta- including the cemetary and the bizarre story of Evita's grave (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Evita_Peron#The_escapades_of_Evita.27s_corpse), and Pallermo; the second was 'Evita and Peronism' and a very intellectual and interesting alternative to the general tour. A great way to get to know the history, influence and culture of a big city.
- Did I mention the night life? Great dinners at places like Bar Uriarte, Bartok, Limbo, Milion, Senor Tango, drinking at Bar 6, Shamrock, Asia de Cuba and Bahrain. It’s out of control and goes until past sunrise.
- Jogging along Av. del Libertador in Pallermo and around the parks in the north near Plaza Italia.. around dusk everyone strolls, plays soccer and enjoys the evening.
- I have not attended a football game yet but will before I leave. Their passion for this game is unbelievable and the local team, La Boca Juniors, is a national institution (unless you like River Platte)
- While I have gone to a few tango lessons (mainly Amy forces me), I am not sure that I will have it down by the time I leave the continent.. it's a very fast-moving dance with a lot of combinations and steps in which a man is supposed to lead. The lessons I have gone to, such as the Armenian Social Club, are all in Spanish and there are a lot of people there.
- I am not the 21 year old traveler I once was. I was just in a hostel at Iguazu- it was about 100 degrees there during the day and 85 at night.. I found it very hard to sleep in a room that was about 90 degrees littered with the dirty clothing of others and 3 other people snoring.. I guess that was just one experience so I'll have to "toughen" up a bit!

Observations:

- I'm surprised Starbucks hasn't invaded. McDonalds, Fridays and BK have.
- The "Pacha" (best lounge/ club) of BA: Opera Bay on Saturday night
- The "Raina" (best restaurant scene) of BA: Bar Uriarte (that I've seen)
- Soon we'll have a "tango show" somewhere in the US- Vegas, NY or SF.. and it will be wildly successful.

The first few weeks have been incredible as I have been able to ease into a lifestyle down here; I have to say the first week it took some getting used- no work life to revolve around, an adjustment of time, culture and language and the beginning of a long time on the road. I'm sure I've been going out too much, drinking too much, staying out too late, discussing world politics too much.. but I guess that is the life that I signed up for! It’s been great to meet other travelers, compare notes, go out and gain insight from them. I’ve been able to relax quite a bit, get some sun at the pool, see areas like Colonia and Iguaçu, and generally set my mind for further destinations like Rio, Machu Picher and more..

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