Bariloche and Buenos Aires Dec 22 - 30

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An odd night spent in Puerto Montt, a town in Chile, where it felt like a crazy market town (it was the Fri even before Christmas) and relieved to get the last 2 seats on the bus to Bariloche in Argentina (sometimes we cut things v fine). We have 2 days in Bariloche, a somewhat ideal town in the Argentine lake district, known for its chocolates, picture perfect vistas and fine weather. We cover 360 kms in one day hiring a car and doing the 7 lakes circuit. Highlights were Annette´s daring submersion in an absolutely freeeeezing glacial river. Sooo hot outside, soooo freezing in the river, what to do? Much laughter as I recovered. Ariel did all the driving (manual) and we marvelled at the amazing rock formations, bizarre; the twinkling blue lakes and the seemingly endless stretches of dirt roads.

Arrival in Buenos Aires, Christmas eve. We´re staying in the bohemian area of San Telmo but its´s rather tranquilo on the streets. We share a litre of sangria and a plate of obligatory shelled peanuts at the historic pub overlooking the square and Annette orders carrot salad which is just one huge plate of grated carrots. They keep it simple here. The next 2 days are quiet and we pass the time doing what the locals do, hanging out in the parks of Palermo and checking out the city on a quiet bus that goes way more efficiently then when there is the normal level of traffic.

Buenos Aires has many streets with 7 lanes each way in traffic. Yes 14 lanes. Thankfully effectively signalled crossings but ya gotta hotfoot it across! Mad driving! Memories: walking under dripping air conditioning, an amazing cemetary in Recoleta with a beautiful vibe and huge and elaborate edifices / gravestones, goodness people feel they need such structures to accompany them to the next life!, freddo icecream parlours with about 10 vespas outside ready to deliver tubs full of icecream to the masses, slender legs doing fine movements of tango dancers, raucous fire crackers going off in the streets from 12-2am on Christmas eve, the fashion and groovy cafes of Palermo, the diverse art work in Malba and Bellas Artes and our lovely SERVAS host Lyssandra who we stayed with for the 2 last nights, an unassuming, lovely young tango teacher! And finally, the tango in grand halls with everybody taking it so seriously with foreheads pressed together and impeccable footwork. Even us bold dancers felt intimidated, even tho we gave it a (brief) try. Humbling! We got on a flight to Rio at 6am, to arrive at 9am on Dec 31st for new years eve with 5 million people at Copacabana beach. More info on that in next installment!

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