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Published: April 9th 2007
Santa Catalina, Arequipa
Peace and tranquility ... very different from its earlier debauched shenanigans Alas, our last entry to y'all before our return to Lancaster on the 11th.
Leaving Cusco was a bit of a wrench, but we knew we had the idyllic Rapa Nui (Easter Island) to look forward to. Returning to almost sea level after being at high altitude for over a month was physically liberating. We could once again chase cats without being out of breath!
First stop was Arequipa (still in Peru) with its infamous convent Santa Catalina. This place is a city within a city with streets and self contained houses with gardens. In its heyday, around 500 nuns lived in style with much merriment, inviting local musicians in to entertain them, and slave girls to do their dirty work. This was until the archbishop at the time put a stop to this frivolous lifestyle. Quite right too! It was incredibly beautiful with now only 10 nuns living in more modest style.
Then onto Tacna to catch onward transport to cross border into Arica, Chile. This onward transport was a 1970s American beast of a car with sticky leather interior that fitted 6 of us in comfort. Border crossing was uneventful. One night
Surf´s Up?
Rob was concentrating so hard on his technique that he didn´t notice the tide had gone out in sunny Arica, then flew to Santiago for a couple of days. This smog-ridden city was faceless and difficult to get to know. We visited a couple of architecturally interesting areas; Barrio Brasil and Paris/Londres, and scaled the dizzy heights of the local viewpoint. Unfortunately smog made visibility difficult and we weren't that interested in the tacky God stuff on top.
After an entertaining 5hr flight to Rapa Nui, we arrived at paradise. Also known as Easter Island, this 12 mile gem of a place is the most isolated inhabited island in the world. Over 2,000 miles from anywhere else - fact! The temperature was a constant hot, with occasional tropical showers. We gasped in awe at the first Moai we saw; these ancient statues, some standing over 9m tall, are scattered throughout the island. For over 500 years, the inhabitants lived in relative harmony until they cut down all the trees, ran out of food, and started to kill (and eat!) each other. Then with the introduction of diseases and slavery from European explorers, the islanders ended up almost extinct. Rapa Nui is seen by many as a warning of the effects of environmental mismanagement and greed
Moai Quarry
Over 400 of these never made it out of the quarry that mankind should learn from. Very true indeed.
We hired bikes and a moped and rode like the wind singing "Born to be wild". Rob had surfing lessons from the local surfer chick Leecha. The Pacific waves were ENORMOUS! He suffered painful chaffing as a result but did manage to stand up albeit briefly. Yeah dude. Morecambe Bay watch out. Needless to say lots of swimming and sunning ourselves. Yellowfin tuna and fresh guava juice were local delicacies ... yum yum. It was a wrench to leave this paradise.
Returning to Santiago for a day was a real shock to the system. Traffic and smog. Then it was a 7hr bus ride over the spectacular Andes to Mendoza in Argentina. Rob felt sad to be leaving this string of magnificent mountains, that have been constantly in view for the best part of 2 months.
Mendoza, a leafy and suave city, was our last camping opportunity (til we get home that is). 4 nights here on a wooded, out of city campsite came complete with outdoor cinema and roast chicken delivered to your tent. We immersed ourselves in white water rafting, followed by lazy times
in parks and sipping the justifiably famed Mendoza wine.
And now here we are back in buzzing Buenos Aires. Our rooftop garden has helped absorb the shock of city life. We´re spending some time with our Argentine friends who we met snorkelling in Puerto Piramides back in Jan. They´re great fun and give us an interesting insight into Argentina, its history, culture and politics and of course its lovely people. I´m sure they will give us a good send off tonight ... over beef.
Lufthansa tomorrow ... Manchester Wednesday. The world sometimes seems such a small place.
Watch out everyone cos we'll be boring you all with photos galore and non-stop commentary upon our return.
Looking forward to a fine English springtime.
Ciao for now.
See you soon.
Love from Nadine and Rob x
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ceri
non-member comment
welcome home!
It's been so great reading your exploits. Sounds like you had a fab time. Hope you don't freeze on your return- nice in the sun but hardly tropical. Looking forward to catching up with you for a cheeky cocktail once you are settled back into Lancy life,Nad! lots of love, ceri. x