Año Nuevo in Valparaiso
January 2nd 2007 As I stolled down a shadowy side street in El Plan, I wrinkled my nose and tried to work out exactly what was causing the acrid smell in the air. Walking past a footbridge and receiving a particularly strong nosefull, I realized that it was the whiff of stale urine. If I had not been to Valparaiso before, the unpleasantness of the smell, together with the stray dogs lurching accross the roads and
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