The five towers
March 20th 2009 I have heard nothing good about Ethiopian bus journeys, and aim to be at the bus well before the departure time to ensure I get a decent seat. With the expectation of a long day's travel ahead, and covered in a layer of dried sweat from the previous night, I decide the least I can do for my sanity is to wash my hair. Thus at 4AM I am crouched in my undies next to the communal tap, lathering and
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