The long way to Lilongwe.
September 21st 2008 In the cool, blue, pre-dawn hours, I say my goodbyes to Dar es Salaam. I’ve arranged for a taxi to pick me up at the Econo Lodge at a quarter-past four, and after a short, restless, fitful night in bed, I’m hauling my bags onto the curb outside the Mohammed Coach Lines ticket office - a grubby storefront, a concrete box, with three barefoot guys sleeping on mattresses on the floor. The warning
... read more