Pilgrim's progress.
May 22nd 2007 We’ve been sitting and simmering in a minibus for a quarter of an hour, the driver outside smoking his L&M cigarettes and a few hoarse guys shouting out destinations (“Nebeknebeknebek!” “Halebhalebhaleb!”) while people go scurrying around the station, duffel bags and swaddled infants in tow. Within the hour I should be climbing the 343 stone steps to the hill-top monastery of Deir Mar M
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