I AmSam - Pago squared

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Heading southwest, the Samoan Islands lie about 2300 miles from Honolulu. It seems ages since Chris crawled up Diamond Head yet here they are entering this South Pacific archipelago.

These islands are divided in to East and West Samoa. East Samoa, otherwise known as American Samoa is the first port of call. This tiny island of 54 square miles is about 18 miles long and approx. 6 miles wide at the widest point. It is the only American territory in the Southern Hemisphere.

The clocks went back another hour so Chris and Roisin are now 12 hours behind the UK.

Pago Pago (pronounced Pango Pango) is the main town in American Samoa. As in most of these islands, the origins are volcanic. The bay of Pago Pago was formed millions of years ago when the seaward wall of a great volcano collapsed allowing the water to enter the steep-sided volcano and creating one of the best, most spectacular natural harbours in the South Pacific.

The ship docked at about 8am and Chris and Roisin left the boat at 9:30 having had another leisurely breakfast.

Immediately on leaving the ship, there was a market set up on the quayside selling the usual array of trinkets and shiny baubles for very reasonable prices. In normal circumstances one would haggle with these market traders but as I've mentioned already in this blog haggling in the South Pacific is considered rude. On top of which, as I also said, the prices were very reasonable so what is there to haggle about??! The ironic thing was that vendors that Chris and Roisin came across started haggling with themselves! For example Roisin asked for the price of one shiny knick-knack and was quoted $10. As she put her hand in her bag to reach for her purse, the vendor said a-la 'Life of Brian', ‘but you can have it for 8…no! 7 dollars!!' Somehow, I don't think they have yet mastered the art of haggling!!!

The port seemed to be top heavy with immigration and customs officials. They were very pleasant and helpful. It was unclear why so many had been drafted in although the size of these men and women should have been a clue. Later on that day, when Chris and Roisin returned to the ship, most of them were in the restaurant sampling the delights of the Sapphire Princess had to offer!! The UK Border Agency missed a trick when re-designing their customs and immigration uniforms as the Samoan's colourful caps and lava lavas (traditional unisex skirts) brightened up what had started as an overcast but very warm day.

The colourful local buses seemed plentiful but they were advised that, although a trip to the far side of the island would only cost only $2 each, it would take just over 1 hour each way with no air conditioning. They sky didn't look too clever so Roisin and Chris decided on a compromise. They found a bus that would drive past a part of the island called ‘The flowerpot' rock. It was about 1.5 miles from downtown Pago Pago. Chris and Roisin would then take a stroll back toward the ship. The fare was $1.

The Flowerpot Rock is an island just off the mainland that resembles, strangely enough, a flowerpot! There is much vegetation sprouting from this small islet. It appears totally uninhabited. This may be because those who did live on this island were fed up being referred to as ‘flowerpot men' or even the more derogatory term 'flob-a-dobs'!!

Walking down the coast road to get a better view of the flowerpot, Chris and Roisin passed the local boat club and what must be in the running for the longest rowing boat in the world. It must have been about 50 foot long. It looks like they only have one boat in their club but its big enough to fit the whole village in!!!

Samoa must be one of the lushest and greenest environments Chris and Roisin have visited on this trip. This can only mean one thing…RAIN!!!! American Samoa receives 200 inches of rain a year!! As Chris and Roisin had just started walking back toward the centre of town the heavens opened. It belted down! Unlike the rain on Pape'ete, this WAS the type of rain that wet you right through!!! Luckily a local bus was crawling its way through the heavy traffic so without hesitation and without knowing where the nearest bus stop was, Chris stuck out his right mitt. He saw the driver nod in approval as the bus slowed from an almost halt to a complete halt!!! Surprisingly (or not!), these buses are all manual gearboxes. Chris and Roisin sat behind the driver and as the bus slowly progressed toward the port area, the driver must have changed gear several hundred times using the clutch. No wonder a lot of their drivers seem to walk with a limp. Their left calf muscle is wasting away while their right calf muscle has developed like Popeye's!!!

And the rain continued. The bus took them straight to the port gate where they took refuge amongst the myriad of market stalls.

After lunch back on board the Sapphire Princess, Chris and Roisin ventured back out and had a wander down to Sadie's by the Sea. This is a holiday complex/bar in tropical surroundings. The staff is dressed in national costume. Chris and Roisin chilled out with a couple of cold beers. Roisin had a cocktail called a strawberry daiquiri. She says she liked the taste and the colour (reddy/pink) and had nothing to do with the tequila content!!

Time for another mooch around the market before boarding. Chris had a yearning to go native and bought a local shirt and lava lava. It must have been as a result of the local beer he had imbibed at Sadie's!! Despite a dare from Roisin, Chris will not be wearing his lava lava for his first day back at work!

Getting on and off ship is well organised and there is hardly any queue as the passengers stagger their movements ashore. Security is tight but, as always, all officials are very polite. Wine purchased ashore is allowed in the cabin but spirits will be confiscated until the end of the trip. Similar to airport security all bags are put on an x-ray conveyor and then you pass through a metal detector. You swipe your cruise card in the machine that goes ‘ping' and bobs your uncle…until the next port of call.

Having put the clocks back 1 hour last night, they go forward by 1 hour tonight. Why? Nobody is really sure as the Sapphire Princess is still travelling west. To be honest everyone is unperturbed by the technicalities or reasons for this as time doesn't really matter on board. You eat when you're hungry and sleep when you're tired.

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Comments

[carole]

i think you have taken to wearing skirts because either a) you have eaten to many afternoon teas and cannot fit into your trousers orb) after being away for nearly a month you have ran
out of clean clothes

[Mrs T]

Is that David Beckham or our Chris?

[maxine]

Hope you shaved your legs chris!! lovin the burnt feet btw ;-) xx

[Maxine]

God roisin look at the colour of u, dont know were your tshirt starts and u finish ;-) xx