From Franz Joseph Glacier to Wanaka, New Zealand’s most scenic drive


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Oceania » New Zealand » South Island » West Coast
November 28th 2007
Published: December 2nd 2007
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“This is the most scenic drive in all of New Zealand,” Robert says as we start our journey from Franz Joseph to Wanaka. The route winds along the West coast through the mountains then dips into valleys with wide riverbeds full of glacial debris and water so clear that it reflects the deep, blue sky.

When it’s time for a “flat white,” we stop at a combination restaurant and salmon farm. A wooden boardwalk wanders through the trees and beside four tanks holding salmon that are swimming round and round.

Our coffee break over, Robert drives a while longer then stops to guide us on a one-and-a-half hour walk through the rainforest to Monroe Beach.

The walk crosses a stream on a swing bridge where the path leads deeper into the native forest. The sound of gurgling creek water competes with singing birds. I don’t know why but the birds sound more melodious in New Zealand.

When the hike exits the rainforest, we are standing on a beach populated with large rock formations. The Fordland crested penguin lives here but they stay hidden in the bush or perhaps they’re swimming somewhere in the ocean.

A “teenage” seal cruises nearby flipping in and out of the water trying to attract our attention. He surfs a wave all the way to shore, looks at us, then hurries back out to the safety of the ocean.

After hiking back through the rainforest to the car, we travel to Haast for a late lunch. The Hard Antler is a pub/restaurant where the locals hang out and antlers dangle from every part of the ceiling. We are the only ones there.

Now, the road takes a turn uphill as we head towards Haast Pass where there seems to be a view at every turn in the road. As the drive passes from the wet side to the dry side of the Southern Alps, the landscape changes to rolling grasslands. We catch our first glimpse of Lake Wanaka and then Lake Hawaea. A photographer couldn’t ask for a more scenic location.

At Wanaka, we check into Wanaka Springs, a boutique lodge, where hosts, Lynn and Murray, entertain their guests with a wine and cheese party on the back deck. Most of the guests tonight are British and we enjoy listening to their New Zealand travel plans over a glass of wine in the late afternoon sun.

Afterwards, Robert, Alan and I walk down the hill to dinner at Missy’s Kitchen. From our table, we can see the town’s Christmas tree, which stands in front of Lake Wanaka. A cool breeze blows through the patio doors while we enjoy steak and a glass of Minaret Peak Pinot Noir, the perfect ending to a day of scenic driving in New Zealand.

To learn more about our stay at Wankaka Springs lodge, this post , at my blog about baby boomer travel, My Itchy Travel Feet .



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