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Published: December 25th 2006
Routeburn Flats
Day 1 of the trek - the sun was out, we were dry and hadn't yet produced that wet shoe smell.
December 18, 2006 We were packed and ready to go… most of our luggage was stored at the hotel and the few belongings we were taking with us were packed and on our backs. We were picked up at our hotel and whisked by bus to the start of the Routeburn track. We enjoyed the views from the bus all along as we drove north along the banks of Lake Wakatipu. The mountains were stunning and the blue sky was promising.
We started out over a swing bridge and into the “wilderness.” The day was beautiful and we were looking forward to this adventure. We joined about 25 others at the trail head… including a retiree and a 10-year-old girl! This couldn’t be that difficult!
We started by crossing a swing bridge that took us straight into the temperate rain forest. The river we followed was a beautiful green-blue and we could see the mountains poking through the tops of the trees every now and again. The mosses and ferns were just as beautiful!
After 6.5 km, we stopped for lunch at the Routeburn Flats hut - a small spot with a
In the beginning...
there was a swing bridge along the Routeburn track. few bunks and a campground. The view here really opened up and let us see straight down the valley. It was spectacular! Unfortunately, the trail headed straight up after lunch. We made our way very slowly to the Routeburn Falls hut with many stops along the way. The sun continued most of the afternoon as we wound our way 2.3 km up the side of the mountain to our stop for the night. The Falls hut was beautiful - overlooking the valley, with a balcony along the entire structure so everyone could enjoy the breathtaking view. The kitchen was all stainless steel with gas burners - tremendously convenient! The Routeburn falls were beautiful and roared down the mountain just behind the hut. The sun sets very late here right now… 10pm or so. We enjoyed the quiet evening, and chatted with several others - some at the beginning, others at the end of their tramps. We were certainly ready for bed well before the sun set! The two bunk rooms each held 24 people, but in small cubicles of two bunk-beds each. It was fairly private, and we slept very well!
Routeburn Track - Day 2
December 19, Harris Saddle Hut
The weather was closing in on the Harris Saddle Hut where we stopped for a quick lunch. 2006
We made it through our longest day on the track (11.3 km)… barely. It was much colder, so we were carrying our layers on our bodies instead of in our packs. The initial climb up past the hut was a bit stressful for first thing, but once we reached the top, it was well worth it. We had landed in the set of Lord of the Rings! We were walking through extensive grassland flats, with steep, tall, towering grey peaks surrounding us. It was truly stunning. Our necks were sore from looking around so much! Some of the further peaks were snow-topped and waterfalls cascaded down the mountains, carving beautiful patterns in the sides.
The highest point on the track is Harris Saddle. It was a steep, well-graded climb to the top, and we had been warned about bad weather by a passing ranger. The rain had begun, but only as a drizzle up until our stop at the Harris Saddle hut. As soon as we passed over the saddle, it was clear that the afternoon was not going to be a fun walk. We had a very quick lunch break and put on our rain gear…
View from the Routeburn Falls Hut
Relaxing and soaking up the view at the end of day 1 we were going to be walking into the clouds.
The remaining part of the day’s walk was not fun. We walked along the Hollyford face, straight into the wind and rain. Supposedly the view across the valley is beautiful, but we had no chance to see it at all. We had to watch each and every step as we were descending along the mountain face. The walk became extremely frustrating as we caught a glimpse of the Mackenzie hut, but still had a good hour or more to get there - descending through switchback paths and back into the rainforest, climbing over roots and boulders to make it around the lake and finally to the hut. We were soaked from head to toe, grouchy, and both mentally and physically exhausted.
It was nice to walk into the Mackenzie hut to meet others that had arrived far ahead of us and had got a roaring fire going! We laid out our shoes, socks and other wet clothes to dry and hoped they might be wearable in the morning. All the people we have met on the track have been great. So many different languages and cultures! Great conversations and
No hands ... then the wobble started
Just one of the many rope bridges along the trek. relaxed evenings all round. This hut was large with 50 bunks - 12 upstairs from the common area and the other 38 in a dorm in a separate building.
Routeburn Track - Day 3
December 20, 2006 We were hoping for better weather this morning, but it wasn’t to happen. Tom had a bit of a panic when he realized his rain pants were missing… the wind had taken them and “hung them up” in the bushes behind the bunk room. Needless to say, they weren’t going to keep him dry today! The ranger said the weather was going to clear later in the day, so several of us going in the same direction decided to wait it out a bit. We pulled out our cards and had a few games before we all decided it was too cold to sit in the hut anymore. We figured we’d be warmer trudging through the rain than sitting and not moving.
Once again, we were the last on the road. There was method to this madness… less depression with people passing us along the track and when we arrived last, the next hut would be fully heated up
A glacier-fed stream
Straight from the spring melt, this water was a milky blue colour. by the people ahead of us!
Our shoes and socks were surprisingly dry this morning, but unfortunately, it didn’t last long. With yesterday’s rains, we were walking through waterfall after waterfall today! Most of today’s trek was through lush, green rainforest. Our bodies were really rebelling today, and the first part of the walk up out of the valley was quite painful. I think our calves have grown! Even though it wasn’t clear, the clouds were much higher today and we had some fabulous views. It’s strange to say, but I don’t think the walk would have been the same today without the rains… there were so many waterfalls that wouldn’t have been there otherwise, and it really did add to the adventure.
The real thing that made us survive the day was that the rain was mixed with snow! It made us finally feel like it was Christmastime! It was very pretty and made the whole thing very pretty (even if it was wet.) The sun began to break through near the end of the day as we neared the Howden hut. The mountain views today were absolutely incredible.
As promised, the fire was roaring with
Peaking into the Routeburn flats
Our first glimpse of the Routeburn flats on day 1 wood and coal when we arrived, and there was space left for our shoes and socks. We’ve been with many of the same people along the hike - Allegra from Dublin, Tim from London, and the family of 5 from Germany. Since today was a relatively short hike (8.6 km), we all arrived fairly early and spent the afternoon playing cards. Another relaxing evening with very friendly folks. We were treated to a beautiful rainbow outside the hut this evening - a good way to end the day.
Routeburn Track - Day 4 and Milford Sound
December 21 & 22, 2006 We made it out alive! The last day on the Routeburn track was a very manageable 3.4 km. We even took a side-trip up to Key Summit lookout. Although the weather today was still very cold, it was a beautiful clear sunny day. At the summit, we had a 360 degree view. We were surrounded by snow-covered peaks, dramatic valleys with winding rivers and beautiful waterfalls. We made it out to the end of the trail by noon to meet up with our bus.
The bus took us straight to Milford Sound where we enjoyed
Routeburn Flats
Another view of the Routeburn flats a 90 minute cruise of the sound. The skies had cleared totally and we were able to thoroughly take in all the sights of the sound. Towering cliffs, dramatic falls and lots of interesting inlets. It was a beautiful area.
Unfortunately, there is nothing in Milford Sound except for the cruise terminal, a café, and an airport with ongoing small fixed-wing and helicopter flights. We stayed the night at the Milford Sound lodge and it was nice to have a warm shower and a real pillow for the night! We lounged around the next morning and walked around the area. A down day with nothing to do was great. Once again, the weather was beautiful and we appreciated it.
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