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Published: February 20th 2006
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Sat. Feb 11th.
There we are trudging along deserted streets at 8 a.m. in the drizzle with our backpacks on, when some happy soul beeped his horn and shouted "Wish I was coming with you!". We won't tell you what our response was as he drove on with no offer of a lift. The 5 hour journey to Dunedin began to reveal the N.Z. we'd been longing to see. The Southern Alps were in the far distance to our right, giving way to the Canterbury Plains, which were ful of sheep. On the left we got the occasional glimpse of the ocean, really spectacular. Dunedin was hosting a Harley Davidson Rally when we arrived and the noise from the bikes was deafening. We were told our hostel was within walking distance of the drop-off and no problem until we turned the last corner. You may know that Dunedin is famous for having the steepest street in the world - we're convinced that our hostel was at the top of the 2nd. steepest! Our room at the "Chalet" was huge, with lovely views accross the harbour and a nice group of people to welcome us. There was even a colleague of Mark's
from Southampton University staying there. Small World.
Sun. !2th.
We were picked up at 3 p.m. for a trip to see the rare Yellow Eyed Penguins, seals and albatros on the Otago Peninsular. The scenery again was fabulous, with rolling patchwork hills and blue cascading ocean. Our 1st. stop was at the Royal Albatros breeding grounds, the only mainland colony in the world. We stood on the hill side while these majestic creatures soared and swooped above us - an unforgetable sight. Then it was off around the bay to see the penguins. The coach can only go so far, and then it's a bit of a hike, past lazy seals and a field full of sheep. The guide takes us through a warren of nest boxes, and hides, to peek at the baby penguins, and to see some teen-aged ones, playing by the man-made lake.The highlight of the trip is to see the adult penguins coming out of the ocean after a hard day's fishing, and walking past the hide, on their way to feed the babies. Have you seen the wild-life programmes, where the penguins fall over one another to get out of the sea? Would you believe we stood there for ages, and only one penguin came home! That's New Zealand for you! We did enjoy the day, though - another memory to store away.
Mon. 13th.
We had a lovely day, just walking around Dunedin. Lots of old character buildings and even a beautifully clean sandy beach. O.K. the wind was blowing a gale, but you can't have everything! Tonight we walked down the hill to Speight's Brewery to join a recommended tour. It was just about worth the time - but at the end we had to sample some of their beers, so going back up the hill took twice as long!
Tues 14th.
Goodbye Dunedin, a truly scottish town. Even its name translates to Edinburgh. The bus to Te Anau leaves 1/2 hour late, and then runs into a 2 hour rainstorm. When this clears the scenery is again beautiful. The driver comes along asking for our preferred drop-off, and we find ourselves deposited by the lake at Steamers Beach Backpackers. The view and the set-up is amazing, but no atmosphere here whatsoever.
Wed 15th.
Just a stone's throw away from where we are staying is Lake Te Anau, beautifully clear, freezing cold water, surrouded by majestic mountains. The majority of the hotels have "No Vacancy" signs up, but walking around town, you don't see a soul. The only thing moving on the lake is the sea-plane and the ducks. We were lucky enough to see the Takahe bird. Albeit in captivity. They are flightless and there are very few left in the world. With their large orange beak and short orange legs, they are so comical to watch.
Thurs.16th.
Walked the other way around the lake, and it's still so very quiet. Lots of new homes being built, so there must be some industry here - probably tourism. Sat outside on the decking, watching the superb sunset.
Fri. 17th.
Today we go on a 9 hour journey to Doubtful Sound. The weather is beautiful but it can change at the drop of a hat. The first stage is a boat across Lake Manapouri, then a 1 hour bus journey along the only road, which twists and turns to Deep Cove to connect with our cruise ship. The scenery all the way along is beautiful, but when we stop to catch our first glimpse of the fiord it is utterly breath-taking, made even more memorable by the Kea Parrots, flying overhead. The ship is big, 3 decks and a real live person doing the commentary. We saw dolphins and seals, but the most memorable sight was the fiord itself. We must have taken a hundred photographs in the 3 hours we were there, so thanks to the family for buying the digital camera. This trip was TRULY AMAZINGLY SPECTACULAR and it must be up there in our top five tourist sights of the world. Doubtful Sound is renowned for its bad weather but today the sun shone and the clouds just hovered a little above the mountains, - perfect. Maybe New Zealand isn't too bad after all.
Sat. 18th.
The 3 hour trip to Queenstown is peppered with beatiful mountains and scenic lakes and announcing journey's end are "The Remarkables", a mountain range which looks as if it's dusted with sand. We're very happy with our accommodation at Aspen Lodge. The superb views of the Gondola Cable Car from the dining room is a bonus. The town is buzzing, and even at 11 p.m., there are shops open and people milling around.
Sun, 19th.
No amount of persuading will convince me to accompany Jim on the Shotover Jet Boat. I go on the bus to the canyon, but then he's on his own! The boat holds 14 people and within sight of the jetty, it's doing 360 deg. turns at full speed. Then it takes off for the canyon, skimming past huge boulders and sqeezing through narrow gorges. Jim thought it was amazing - no accounting for taste! A walk along the lakeside and around the beatiful gardens end a perfect day. Queenstown is definitely worth a visit!
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