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Published: June 23rd 2017
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Geo: -45.0311, 168.663
7th May
Fiordland and Milford Sound. We'd seen the brochure pictures with blue sky and snow-capped peaks - our experience was slightly different but equally impressive. We set off from Queenstown by coach at 6.55 while it was still dark and drove along the valley between Lake Wakatipu and the Remarkables Mountains. Gradually as it got light we saw that the tops of the mountains were covered in low cloud which gave them a very forbidding appearance. Our driver was an old hand and full of stories about the place. Despite his jokes about alcoholism and a heart pace-maker we felt we were in safe hands.
After two and a half hours we reached Te Anau (Gateway to Fiordland) which sits beside Lake Te Anau, the largest lake in South Island. Groups of intrepid walkers set off from here to explore the various trails which wind through the mountains. We contented ourselves with admiring the magnificent view across the lake before getting back on the bus for the second leg of the journey which is even more spectacular. The Milford Road passes through the Eglinton Valley and is a stunning Alpine drive. It was only constructed in the 1930s –
before that it was foot or horseback. Because of all the rain over the past weeks the rivers and waterfalls were in full spate, thundering beside the road. After plenty of stops to admire the Mirror Lakes and the Chasm, a mighty waterfall that has carved the surrounding rocks into amazing shapes, we reached the Homer Tunnel, hacked and blasted straight through the mountains for almost a mile. Not a great place for the claustrophobic or to reflect on the 2000 earthquakes per year in the area.... From the tunnel the road descends steeply with hairpins bends and our driver had tales of the coach careening from one side to the other during the winter when the surface is covered in ice !
Once in Milford Sound we had 5 minutes to board the Milford Haven for our cruise along the Sound. For the geologists/geographers amongst you this is technically NOT a Sound since it was created by by glaciers not rivers and is therefore a true fjord. It is also one of the wettest places on earth with 200 wet days and per year and an annual rainfall of 24ft (7 m) ! Well, we may not have had the
sun and blue skies but we did have very atmospheric views of sheer mountains rising 4000 ft (1200m) from the water, their tops vanishing into the mist and the recent rain had sent hundreds of waterfalls cascading down their sides. The rocks boat went so close to some of the largest falls that the brave souls standing at the front doing their Titanic impressions got drenched ! J A pod of dolphins entertained us by chasing fish up against the cliffs and then hovering them up. Fur seals basked on the rocks
Just as we were heading back to shore the clouds began to lift and the sun came out so we did get to see the full majesty of the place. Unfortunately the better weather came to late for us to be able to fly back to Queenstown as planned so it was back on the bus for the 4 ½ hour drive back. We were disappointed not to get the chance to fly
over the Southern Alps in the little plane but flying straight into one of them wouldn't have been much fun either.
So it's goodbye to Fiordland and hello to Christchurch and self-drive.....
Just checked the news and found we have a Hung Parliament. What a shame we shall miss all the endless negotiations and bickering !
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Antony
non-member comment
It looks like a set from the "Two towers"... Majestic !