Trampin' it up at Aoraki/Mt. Cook

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We managed to work our way out of Christchurch without incident and set off on H73 to our next destination, Twizel (pronounced Twyzel). We were taking the scenic route there which took alittle longer put promised better landscape and less traffic. So far so good with the whole left hand driving but what was harder than staying on the correct side of the street was having your steering wheel on the right side of the car. We were constantly hugging the shoulder and not staying centered in the lane. Also, the rearview mirror was pretty much useless as you naturally look right and always use the side mirror instead.

This highway took us through more green pastures and rolling hills. It was too bad that the weather had turned grey and drizzly as it took away from our view of the countryside. I was really hoping this weather wouldnt last as we were going to Mt. Cook the next day. We made our first pit-stop at Rakai Gorge and hung over the bridge to take some pics. The river ran next to a mountain that had a curious light coloured soil ribboned through its centre. The water itself was a slate green lined with fisherman along its shores. Back onto the windy road, up and down the hills. Golden pastures crowded with thousands of sheep grazing. We were told yesterday that there are 4 million people in New Zealand and 14 million sheep! I believe it as the sheep were neverending in numbers as we drove by pasture after pasture.

We were to stop for a coffee break in Geraldine where I was to take over driving. Cute little town where you can either continue on with the scenic route or head over to H1. Found alittle plaza with charming shops of cheese, homeade jams and souvenirs (and in true traveller fashion, I stuffed myself on as many samples as possible). Strong coffee in hand, I headed for the driver's seat and H79. I LOVE driving these roads!! After the short adjustment to left hand driving, I was comfortable behind the wheel. Although, to this day, when I start to drive it takes me awhile to not turn on the windshield wipers everything I want to use the indicator. I think I made Kerry a little nervous as I was wavering to the left shoulder quite often. The windy, hilly roads are a blast to drive. You dont really need to brake, you just glide down the hill then hit the gas around a corner. Too bad we werent in a high performance vehicle, that wouldve been the best. Due to the first 3 letters of our liscence plate (BRP), we had dubbed our car the Silver Burp. Apply named as she was as loud and slow as a long, lazy beltch. We loved her anyways, and what she lacked in speed made up for in fuel efficiency. Passed through the town Fairlie and the landscape started to change to less trees and more sprawling fields and mountains. We drove past the stunning Lake Tekapo and thankfully, the sun managed to break through the clouds. Everything changed into a deeper shade of gold, including the mountains which looked as smooth as velvet against the sky. This was my favourite light. The warms, soft rays of the sun as it starts to set. The road was less windy here and it gave me a chance to look around rather than keeping my eyes fixed on the road. Passed the turnoff to Mt. Cook and was on the last leg to Twizel. We were in McKenzie District now and the same made me think of how much this land reminded me of parts of Scotland I had seen on an earlier trip. Found our hotel and dumped the bags off to go check out the town. This was a really small town and from what we could find, had only one plaza with afew restaurants, small market, laundry/internet and a sports bar. Grabbed a bite to eat and missed out getting groceries before the market closed. Had an early evening in order to rest up for our trip to Mt. Cook tomorrow.

LOTR GEEK FACT: The Battle of the Pellenor Fields was partly filmed around Twizel!!

Today is Easter Sunday and I am without chocolate bunnies to eat.....must buy some later. Decided that we would have brekkie at the mountain as we were eager to get on the road. The early morning was thick with fog but at a later glance, looked like it was starting to lift. As we pulled out onto the highway, we were both estatic that the fog was gone and a beautiful clear blue sky remained. It was a 45 minute drive which was our most stunning yet. Along the way we saw those same golden hills covered in sheep but up ahead the promise of a lake view. Lake Pukaki is a long winding alpine lake that got its distinct opaque blue colour from finely ground rock particles from the glaciers relecting the light. What a sight it was. The best part of this view was jutting up behind the lake was our first look at the Southern Alps and the magnificant Mnt. Cook, the highest peak in Australasia. It and the rest of the range of mountains and glaciers were breath taking against the brilliant blue sky. We drove into the embrace of these mountains and they slowly engulfed us as we made our way to the village at Mnt. Cook. Parked the car and made our way to the tourist info centre where we purchased a trail map. There were only 2 places to eat here so we went with the cheaper and proceeded to eat our most expensive brekkie to date. The view from the cafe of the mountains alone paid for the meal though. After a hearty meal to get us through the day, we set off for our first tramp in New Zealand. I was wearing pretty much every layer of warm clothes I had as we werent sure what to expect for temperature. About twenty minutes into the walk, I had shed three and was still warm. There was a welcome alpine breeze but on the whole, the sun was very hot. We were first taking the Kea Point Walk to the lookout point. The trails (that we took anyways) didnt take you up the side of any mountains, but are roughly cut out of the valley floor. It wasnt always on level ground and the path consisted of loose gravel and stone, sometimes large rocks that you have to carefully navigate over. The only downside to this path was you had to constantly keep your eyes to the ground or else you could easy fall, when you really wanted to be looking around at the scenery instead. No worries though, it just meant more breaks so you could take in everything around you. It took us 40 minutes to get to the lookout that only had afew people already there. This was a magnificant view of Mnt. Cook, Mt. Feston and the Footstood, the Hooker Valley and Mueller Glacier. We even hear the crack of the glaciers which sounded like a loud quick explosion. The sun was high above the range and we sat in the warm thinking how lucky we were to be experiencing this. This site was put on the World Heritage list in 1966 and you could understand why once you saw it. We backtracked the same trail and took the turn off to the Hooker Valley trail which takes you to Hooker Lake. The air smells so good here, fresh with earth and trees mixed with the sweet smell of what I thought to be wild rosemary. Along the path you pass through the White Horse Hill camping grounds where the odd tent was pitched. There were alot more people on the trail here as you can actually drive to this point to start your tramping. I worried about some of the eldery people hiking as the rough trail would be tough for them, but off they went! Walking through this valley with great glaciers on one side, golden mountains dotted with trees and sub alpine grassland on the other, the rushing Hooker River at your feet, all the while the great Mnt. Cook looming down at you from above. It really rendered you speachless, which was OK with some of the hills we had to climb! I also realized at this point that there would never be enough film on earth to capture the beauty of this country, and we've just been here a week!
As the river runs through the path they have built two swing bridges (suspension bridges) in order to cross them. Only twenty people can walk them at a time and you had to squeeze by anyone going the opposite direction. The more people on the bridge, the bouncier it got. I passed by one poor kid holding his hat over his mouth. I've never seen anyones eyes that big in my life. The second bridge has more of a climb to it on one side. They have carved the path out of rock on the side of the mountain and the handrail was most useful as the fall down this would be a hard one.
We were well into our second hour of tramping and were not going to turn back until we got to our destination, Hooker Lake. We finally got our first glimpse of water and it gave us that jolt of energy our legs needed. The water itself was not clear but more of a murky gray which again had something to do with the glacier influence. It also seemed to have a faint scent of the sea. People were draped over rocks everywhere. Resting their feet from the hike, taking pictures of the glacier studded lake or the huge Mt. Cook in the background. Sat down for abit and listened to some music on our Ipods. It was a great moment of just relaxing and taking it all in, with a soundtrack no less. The sun had dipped behind a mountain for a well deserved break and the cool air was refreshing. Decided to make the journey back and was suprised at how many people along the way asked how long it was to the lake. The sun was starting to set but it was still warm enough to make you sweat. I found it difficult walking back turned away from such a view but I guess it's what inspires you on the way there. Towards the end, the hop was definitely missing from our step and after 4 hours, we made it back to the Tourist Centre. Disappointing part to come.....since it was Easter Sunday, they wouldnt sell you a beer without ordering an entire meal. Easter is a really long holiday.
Got back in the car and set off to Twizel. Another beautiful ride back during that magic hour when everything was bathed in golden sunlight. Back in town and settled on a great bowl of seafood chowder for dinner and back to the room for a well deserved shower. We were off to Dunedin in the morning.....

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