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Published: August 12th 2006
It has barely stopped raining since we arrived in NZ, which is something of a shock to the system after a week in the tropics. However, on the plus side my sunburn is almost better.
Christchurch was like a return to England, with village greens and craft fairs. The local pharmacy even stocked the full range of Boots No 7 cosmetics. Something we cannot even get in Brussels.
Went to Kaikoura on Monday but unfortunately bad weather and rough sea conditions prevented us from whale watching and even the dolphins seemed to have decided to migrate somewhere warm. We did however see lots of seals and albatross and then spent the evening de-frosting at the Hanmer thermal springs, which were pretty fabulous. We also went to Akaroa on Wednesday, but again the weather meant that the harbour cruises were cancelled. We consoled ourselves with some retail therapy in the local jewellers.
Thankfully the weather cleared for the Trans-Alpine train journey on Thursday, which more than lived up to its hipe, passing over the Canterbury plains, high into the Southern Alps and then descending into lush rainforest, all in the space of three hours. Unfortunately, and despite clear warnings
over the tannoy, i managed to trap my little finger in the metal doors between the carriages and spent the rest of the day wrapping my hand in ice to reduce the swelling. My physical woes were added to when the damage caused by my ski boot in February finally caused th loss of my toenail. I figure it should be restored just in time for next year's ski season! This pixie is falling apart!
Spent yesterday climbing the Franz Joseph glacier and can barely walk today. It was the most physically challenging and exhilerating thing I have completed since the skiing, and by the time we clambered off the ice at 1630 my legs were shaking. Unfortunately we then had a 3km hike back to the bus. I spent an hour in the spa bath on our return. But as you will see from the photos, it was spectacular scenery. Having climbed ice steps for about an hour, we spent a couple of hours exploring the ridges and crevasses. There were points i knew what it was like to be in a fridge, encased on both sides by clear blue ice barely shoulder width apart. Other points we
were open to the plateaux of ice, with the valley laid out before ice and a set of crampons to keep us from a v.rapid descent. We are going to take it easy for the next few days.
We are now half way through our adventure, but with the state of Heathrow at present we may just have to stay in the south for some time. love em
Actually, I fear we may have stay in the Cook islands for several months. Bummer!
Am enjoying the scenery here on the South island. The coastline aound Kaikoura is very beautiful, although rather disappointed that we couldn't go out whale watching. Mind you, given how much the dolphin-watching boat was being tossed about even in the shelter of the bay, (it was exhilerating - i enjoyed it!), any further out would have been a recipe for sea-sickness, I think! Hanmer Springs and some serious LOTR scenery en route were a good end to the day.
The Transalpine express fully deserves it's accolade as one of the most spectacular rail journeys on the planet - the Southern Alps through Arthur's Pass and the descent through the temperate forests is
very beautiful. Go if you get the chance.
Franz Joseph glacier is no slouch on the scenic front, either. Yesterday's hike was certainly tough, but worth the effort - being inside a glacier is very different. A surreal and other wordly beauty, although unforgiving. Great guides. Spending today recovering before going South tomorrow to fjordland.
Have fun, Nicky.
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